Yokomo MR4TC-BD
12-03-2006, 05:26 PM
#6451
As Chris said....they are longer so it gives a longer throw.
12-03-2006, 10:42 PM
#6452
Tech Adept
I just can not believe it.
I ve just only change the 3mm Yok lower Chasis with a Bomber upper deck. My BD just go so much faster, times really improved! Setup is the same as the older BD chasis. Cornering is more predictable with a stiffer chasis I guess.
I was regretted for not getting the BDM chasis before, now I really dont.
I ve just only change the 3mm Yok lower Chasis with a Bomber upper deck. My BD just go so much faster, times really improved! Setup is the same as the older BD chasis. Cornering is more predictable with a stiffer chasis I guess.
I was regretted for not getting the BDM chasis before, now I really dont.
12-03-2006, 11:10 PM
#6453
Originally Posted by Chris Grainger
Hi guys
I have to say the Yokomo support for all the drivers out there is not great, and we need to improve it, The trouble is everyone at Yokomo apart from Robert and Masami speak terrible English!
And Masami is very busy. I am lucky to have a Japanese speaking Girlfriend to help me out!!! when Umino sends me a set up to try I have all the same problems you have understanding what they mean.
I have to say I don't get a great deal of time near a PC, my day job keeps me outside and with all the racing I do, Time is not on my side or I would write more.
Ok what you want to know? Japan nats we ran a " out the box" BDM, that's the Masamis spec kit, with a std rear tower, CGM steering bellcranks, and MR4tc caster blocks
The bellcranks are longer so give a longer throw, there was really nothing special on Masamis car.
Chris
I have to say the Yokomo support for all the drivers out there is not great, and we need to improve it, The trouble is everyone at Yokomo apart from Robert and Masami speak terrible English!
And Masami is very busy. I am lucky to have a Japanese speaking Girlfriend to help me out!!! when Umino sends me a set up to try I have all the same problems you have understanding what they mean.I have to say I don't get a great deal of time near a PC, my day job keeps me outside and with all the racing I do, Time is not on my side or I would write more.
Ok what you want to know? Japan nats we ran a " out the box" BDM, that's the Masamis spec kit, with a std rear tower, CGM steering bellcranks, and MR4tc caster blocks
The bellcranks are longer so give a longer throw, there was really nothing special on Masamis car.
Chris
Hi Chris,
Thanks for answering my post, I do understand it would suck a lot of your time answering everones questions, so can i make a suggestion.
When you return from a major race meeting, could you post some of the things that were learnt/used at that meet by the team, I think everyone on this thread would benifit from that.
Once again thanks for taking the time to post on here.
Rhys
12-04-2006, 12:26 AM
#6454
Tech Elite
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: MOOD;; feeling good not racing ,saving shed loads of money,lovely Tan i have aswell
Posts: 4,762
Originally Posted by MR JOLLY
wish i could draw a picture 
word for word from chris`s Holy Bible (setup booklet
if built as kit instructions you will get very agressive steering mid corner,good for japans hightraction tracks,but i find the following better for the UK
When assembling the steering hub to the castor block,Don`t place the spacer supplied in the kit under the castor block. instead use no spacer at the bottom and use the supplied blue 1mm thick spacer with 3mm hole(sd-300s), and the black 0.5mm spacer with the 4mm hole above the steering block.As the diagram show`s the 1mm spacer goes on top of the steering block,with the 0.5mm spacer on top of the blue spacer. when mounting the complete castor block to the car use the bottom holes in castor blocks
Damn you adyb for making me type that lot out
word for word from chris`s Holy Bible (setup booklet
if built as kit instructions you will get very agressive steering mid corner,good for japans hightraction tracks,but i find the following better for the UK
When assembling the steering hub to the castor block,Don`t place the spacer supplied in the kit under the castor block. instead use no spacer at the bottom and use the supplied blue 1mm thick spacer with 3mm hole(sd-300s), and the black 0.5mm spacer with the 4mm hole above the steering block.As the diagram show`s the 1mm spacer goes on top of the steering block,with the 0.5mm spacer on top of the blue spacer. when mounting the complete castor block to the car use the bottom holes in castor blocks
Damn you adyb for making me type that lot out
12-04-2006, 12:28 AM
#6455
Tech Elite
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: MOOD;; feeling good not racing ,saving shed loads of money,lovely Tan i have aswell
Posts: 4,762
Just got my Team Bomber spool/with Blades
also just got my SD500 ali diff half`s
also just got my SD500 ali diff half`s
12-04-2006, 03:38 AM
#6456
Originally Posted by MR JOLLY
Just got my Team Bomber spool/with Blades
also just got my SD500 ali diff half`s
also just got my SD500 ali diff half`s
12-04-2006, 07:54 AM
#6457
Tech Elite
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: MOOD;; feeling good not racing ,saving shed loads of money,lovely Tan i have aswell
Posts: 4,762
http://www.rc-car-world.de/
they are not as cheap as hong kong , But they have it
pic show`s full diff on site ,but als you only get the diff halves (here`s wishfull thinking
they are not as cheap as hong kong , But they have it
pic show`s full diff on site ,but als you only get the diff halves (here`s wishfull thinking
12-04-2006, 08:35 AM
#6458
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by VooDooPH
saw this at the coolcanfan website... what king of CV are these (red)? where are they available online?
12-04-2006, 08:38 AM
#6460
Originally Posted by pops
Those CVDs are proto types for the Worlds edition from Ti Racing. They are now available in Blue only. I still have them but not using anymore because I ran out of axles, and it is a real bitch trying to get replacements in the US. My opinion is that they were really the strongest and best CVDs available anywhere. They do look pretty cool though.
wish they'd find their way back here though. :|
12-04-2006, 09:38 AM
#6461
Originally Posted by MR JOLLY
http://www.rc-car-world.de/
they are not as cheap as hong kong , But they have it
pic show`s full diff on site ,but als you only get the diff halves (here`s wishfull thinking
they are not as cheap as hong kong , But they have it
pic show`s full diff on site ,but als you only get the diff halves (here`s wishfull thinking
12-04-2006, 10:01 AM
#6462
have a look at the bottom right side of the homepage, there you can chose if the side shall be in german or english
for the lazy people here's the link in english http://www.rc-car-world.de/index.php?language=co
for the lazy people here's the link in english http://www.rc-car-world.de/index.php?language=co
12-04-2006, 12:41 PM
#6463
Tech Elite
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: MOOD;; feeling good not racing ,saving shed loads of money,lovely Tan i have aswell
Posts: 4,762
Originally Posted by Racingbod85
ok colin i don't speak german and have spent far to long trawling through the site with no success. Can you post the actual link please? got some nice stuff though
i can read german so i don`t need to
12-04-2006, 12:44 PM
#6464
Tech Elite
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: MOOD;; feeling good not racing ,saving shed loads of money,lovely Tan i have aswell
Posts: 4,762
Originally Posted by VooDooPH
was trying out the stuff shown in the diagram with a spare chub and knuckle... the king pin is really supposed to hang lower than usual?
HTH
Don`t forget aswell ,chris & the gang are on the old MR4TC castor blocks now (that`s allright if you can get them still
12-04-2006, 02:56 PM
#6465
Tech Adept
Hi Chris,
Just a couple of questions for you
Is your chassis 'Grainger edition' the same as the BDM chassis??
I also heard you mention that there is a stiffer chasiss from Yokomo. Is this chassis what you use all the time now and any part numbers.
Also do you think the new front and rear hubs will be offically released. As the HPI stuff seems difficult to fit with Yokomo bearing (spacing) unless I change to HPI axles as well
Thanks
Just a couple of questions for you
Is your chassis 'Grainger edition' the same as the BDM chassis??
I also heard you mention that there is a stiffer chasiss from Yokomo. Is this chassis what you use all the time now and any part numbers.
Also do you think the new front and rear hubs will be offically released. As the HPI stuff seems difficult to fit with Yokomo bearing (spacing) unless I change to HPI axles as well
Thanks