Yokomo MR4TC-BD
09-28-2005, 06:03 PM
#3421
Originally Posted by loopedeloop
Yeeehaaa
My BD has finally turned up
No more having to deal with broken diffs on my pro4, gonna relegate it to silver can stock grade.
My BD has finally turned up
No more having to deal with broken diffs on my pro4, gonna relegate it to silver can stock grade.
You should make a trip down to Auckland, we can have a BD party, I think theres 4 in Auckland
09-28-2005, 06:05 PM
#3422
Yeah , I do come down occaisionally to race AMAC and QTR.
Hoping to get down this sunday
Hoping to get down this sunday
09-29-2005, 08:14 PM
#3425
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by RED-LINE M03
Anybody have the part # for the Yok bleeder screw for the shock caps?
And also the # for the clamping hex drives and does the oring for the roll pin come with the hex drives?
Thanks,
E
And also the # for the clamping hex drives and does the oring for the roll pin come with the hex drives?
Thanks,
E
Aluminum Clap Wheel Hubs ZS-011C Clamp does not use o'rings, it clamps onto the pin.
ZS-011EL EZ Wheel Hubs II uses o'ring to hold the pin in place.
09-30-2005, 03:17 AM
#3426
Yok part
I am look at the thickness of the hex, it is half the thickness of the FTC4 hex, this narrows the car 2mm on each side. This moves the hub further into the rim, changing roll rate of the suspension, making it respond faster than the stock part, feeling more responsive to all driver input. This is a Yokomo part just checking on a part #.
picture of low profile hex with o-ring..
picture of low profile hex with o-ring..
09-30-2005, 06:31 AM
#3427
Originally Posted by Matt Howard
If it feels better to you then there's nothing wrong, everyone drives differently.
i just became curious after reading an article of joel johnson in R/C car action, stating that using the entire "throw" of the steering of a car is bad 'cause it scrubs speed going in a corner... im just wondering if maybe i should try to set-up or drive differently to be able to get better and faster.
09-30-2005, 06:45 AM
#3428
when I go to a new track I set my steering throw to be able to get through the tightest part of the track and then go racing from there. If you concentrate more on taking good lines and keeping corner speed then you don't need all the steering throw of any car. I see it all the time, especially in 1/12 racing, where other drivers have way too much steering throw and they go into a corner and the car just looses all corner speed because the front tires are acting like a brake almost. I guess with the high capacity batteries now people don't have to try and have an efficient car because they're not going to dump. When I started racing sedans we ran with 1700's and soon after 2000's in mod for 5 minutes and I usually ran a 10 turn and didn't dump.
09-30-2005, 07:34 AM
#3429
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by RED-LINE M03
I am look at the thickness of the hex, it is half the thickness of the FTC4 hex, this narrows the car 2mm on each side. This moves the hub further into the rim, changing roll rate of the suspension, making it respond faster than the stock part, feeling more responsive to all driver input. This is a Yokomo part just checking on a part #.
picture of low profile hex with o-ring..
picture of low profile hex with o-ring..
If it is for a Yoke, use part ZS-011EL it will be blue though.
10-02-2005, 06:52 AM
#3431
Originally Posted by Matt Howard
when I go to a new track I set my steering throw to be able to get through the tightest part of the track and then go racing from there. If you concentrate more on taking good lines and keeping corner speed then you don't need all the steering throw of any car. I see it all the time, especially in 1/12 racing, where other drivers have way too much steering throw and they go into a corner and the car just looses all corner speed because the front tires are acting like a brake almost. I guess with the high capacity batteries now people don't have to try and have an efficient car because they're not going to dump. When I started racing sedans we ran with 1700's and soon after 2000's in mod for 5 minutes and I usually ran a 10 turn and didn't dump.
it seems that i'm one of those drivers that use the front as brakes to slow down the car into a turn... i really don't know where to begin in correcting my driving style, since i started playing GP3300 was already out.
10-02-2005, 07:04 AM
#3432
Originally Posted by tony montana
Hey guys Im going to be a new BD owner shortly. Im going to be racing it on carpet with foam tires, what do I need to buy besides a front diff, what color shock springs, etc. Were is the best place 2 get the parts from. Thanks alot.
I think the Rayspeed set is enough adjustability but others buy the yokomo springs aswell.
Oh and buy a locked center pulley.
10-02-2005, 09:25 AM
#3434
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by tony montana
Hey guys Im going to be a new BD owner shortly. Im going to be racing it on carpet with foam tires, what do I need to buy besides a front diff, what color shock springs, etc. Were is the best place 2 get the parts from. Thanks alot.
2) either some Yoke GT-4 springs or the complete set of TC-3 springs.
5) Yokomo Extra Large foam bumper or the P-Dub bumper
4) Extra set of hinge pins
5) front steering hubs
6) 2 deg rear suspension mount or 1 deg rear hubs reversed to get 2 deg
6) Speedtech always has a great supply of Yokomo Parts.
10-02-2005, 09:46 AM
#3435
So why would you recommend either TC3, GT-4 springs over rayspeed ones?