Yokomo MR4TC-BD
07-09-2005, 08:46 AM
#2853
Originally Posted by Randy Caster
I posted Masami's RROC setup around the first of last month, you can propably dig through the pages and find it.
Originally Posted by Randy Caster
Front
Speedtech spool
1.6mm swaybar
1mm offset steering block
4 degree hub carrier
1 degree camber
0 degree toe in/out
.3mm shim anti-dive
0mm spacers under susp. mounts
droop is 9.5mm measured from my setup board to the center of the hingepin, same as rear
4mm in front of arms
stock bladder and sponge
SSS body
Short shock end
62mm length
RS blue spring
450 shock oil
1.0 x 3 hole shock piston
1 o-ring bump stop
Bottom hole in hub carrier, shim on top of steering block
2'nd hole in on shock tower, middle hole on arm
0mm under camber link ballstud
4mm ride height
Rear
Direct pulley
1.4mm swaybar
.5 hub carrier
1.5 degee camber
2.5 degree toe block
0 degree skid angle
.5mm shims under both susp. mounts
Droop is same as front
4mm in rear of arms
stock bladder and sponge
62mm length
RS blue spring
450 shock oil
1.0 x 3 hole shock piston
1 bump stop o-ring
bottom hole in hub carrier
outside holes on tower and arm
0mm under camber link ballstud
4.3mm ride height
Checkpoint 7x1
SMC3300
LRP QC2
112 spur 25 pinion 8.96 final
Yokomo Stratus E Type Stock wing
Inner body mount
That was my Reedy setup (based off Masami's) I think Masami's was the same except they went with 2x1.0mm hole piston and a Mazda 6 body, looked like an aluminum front spool.
Speedtech spool
1.6mm swaybar
1mm offset steering block
4 degree hub carrier
1 degree camber
0 degree toe in/out
.3mm shim anti-dive
0mm spacers under susp. mounts
droop is 9.5mm measured from my setup board to the center of the hingepin, same as rear
4mm in front of arms
stock bladder and sponge
SSS body
Short shock end
62mm length
RS blue spring
450 shock oil
1.0 x 3 hole shock piston
1 o-ring bump stop
Bottom hole in hub carrier, shim on top of steering block
2'nd hole in on shock tower, middle hole on arm
0mm under camber link ballstud
4mm ride height
Rear
Direct pulley
1.4mm swaybar
.5 hub carrier
1.5 degee camber
2.5 degree toe block
0 degree skid angle
.5mm shims under both susp. mounts
Droop is same as front
4mm in rear of arms
stock bladder and sponge
62mm length
RS blue spring
450 shock oil
1.0 x 3 hole shock piston
1 bump stop o-ring
bottom hole in hub carrier
outside holes on tower and arm
0mm under camber link ballstud
4.3mm ride height
Checkpoint 7x1
SMC3300
LRP QC2
112 spur 25 pinion 8.96 final
Yokomo Stratus E Type Stock wing
Inner body mount
That was my Reedy setup (based off Masami's) I think Masami's was the same except they went with 2x1.0mm hole piston and a Mazda 6 body, looked like an aluminum front spool.
07-09-2005, 04:04 PM
#2857
Originally Posted by THE GOOCH
I am thinking about a bd for a new car. I will be racing on a short carpet track with foams. What should I get for the car first, or should I find a used shaft car and get the lcg conversion?
Thanks
Thanks
I haven't built my LCG yet, but as far as 'my driving style' goes, I'm in love with my BD. You may prefer a shaftie, I don't know. I'm sure guys running the LCG will chime in to give you their opinions ie Mr. Shookie 
-JB
07-09-2005, 04:52 PM
#2858
Originally Posted by Matt Howard
The price was $100 when I inquired about it a couple weeks ago.
Here is a copy of the mail I sent you.
"It's yours. I was asking $70.00 but I ended up using more end mills and material than I had hoped so the new price is $90.00 shipped. If you are not interested in one at this price just let me know. I apologize again for the increase, but I think if I were making more than a few at a time I could
bring the price down some."
$90.00 shipped
I don't think that's bad
07-09-2005, 05:26 PM
#2859
Tech Adept
Gooch, I think for carpet you will definitely be better with the BD especially with foams where flex is important.The LCG is a pure asphalt racer and is pretty flexy, I would love to get a LCG but I would like to hear more feedback, track testing, reviews etc...but to me it seems that the specs of this shaftie are the best ever
Looking forward to see some Yokomo Team Drivers driving the LCG! The lowered 2 piece upper deck design isnt just for the low G or a fancy thing but it also purposely offers more flex or asphalt racing.It has been R&D for sure.
I saw a pic of Masami s SDW and he was using only 4 screws on the upper deck, 2 on each top of the bulkheads and strangely, it looked like a LCG
Hope this helps
Looking forward to see some Yokomo Team Drivers driving the LCG! The lowered 2 piece upper deck design isnt just for the low G or a fancy thing but it also purposely offers more flex or asphalt racing.It has been R&D for sure.
I saw a pic of Masami s SDW and he was using only 4 screws on the upper deck, 2 on each top of the bulkheads and strangely, it looked like a LCG
Hope this helps
07-09-2005, 05:54 PM
#2860
Originally Posted by Mach10_shooter
Don't think so Matt!
Here is a copy of the mail I sent you.
"It's yours. I was asking $70.00 but I ended up using more end mills and material than I had hoped so the new price is $90.00 shipped. If you are not interested in one at this price just let me know. I apologize again for the increase, but I think if I were making more than a few at a time I could
bring the price down some."
$90.00 shipped I don't think that's bad
Here is a copy of the mail I sent you.
"It's yours. I was asking $70.00 but I ended up using more end mills and material than I had hoped so the new price is $90.00 shipped. If you are not interested in one at this price just let me know. I apologize again for the increase, but I think if I were making more than a few at a time I could
bring the price down some."
$90.00 shipped
I don't think that's bad
I've got a million things going on right now with me getting ready to move back to the states and trying to make sure the wife and daughter have everything taken care of so they can move to our new base as well. I didn't go back and see exactly how much you wanted for it, my bad. I really like the bumper brace you did for me, hope I didn't offend you in any way, that wasn't my intent.
07-09-2005, 06:10 PM
#2861
BD preformed awesome today...my drivign on the other hand was the same.
I ran it in 19T and had never driven the Freedom Park track. I broke either one thing or another....Won the C Main granted the only other driver that started the race dumped. I was on fire until they said the race was over because the other guy pulled off. I felt th eBD only needed a little bit more steering to make it run really well. I also ran the LCG in Stock...Problems all around....The track is literally a car killer....Broke every run...Even the Main....The boards were totally Brutle...........................That is OK i needed to stress test both cars...The BD was a little more durable...Only broke a Battery strap mount screw...Yea go figure.
Well I am tired maybe I will come on later....
Hope everyone enjoyes there race days....
-Shookie <><
I ran it in 19T and had never driven the Freedom Park track. I broke either one thing or another....Won the C Main granted the only other driver that started the race dumped. I was on fire until they said the race was over because the other guy pulled off. I felt th eBD only needed a little bit more steering to make it run really well. I also ran the LCG in Stock...Problems all around....The track is literally a car killer....Broke every run...Even the Main....The boards were totally Brutle...........................That is OK i needed to stress test both cars...The BD was a little more durable...Only broke a Battery strap mount screw...Yea go figure.
Well I am tired maybe I will come on later....
Hope everyone enjoyes there race days....
-Shookie <><
07-09-2005, 07:15 PM
#2862
I broke two graphite bell crank plates today during qualifying, my third so far. Is anyone else breaking these easily? I didn't have any problems when running stock or 19T but, mod is another story. Tap a board and forget about it, that thing is toast. If this thing was made out of spring steel, it would rock. I guess that's why Yokomo didn't put a servo saver in the kit, the plate's probably going to break first.
Anyone know of someone who can machine some of these things out of spring steel? I would even take a graphite plate with only one or two ball stud holes on each side. Even if I had to buy a couple plates with different mounting locations for adjustments, I would think it would be much stonger.
Any ideas?
Anyone know of someone who can machine some of these things out of spring steel? I would even take a graphite plate with only one or two ball stud holes on each side. Even if I had to buy a couple plates with different mounting locations for adjustments, I would think it would be much stonger.
Any ideas?
07-09-2005, 07:22 PM
#2863
Yea Buy two and double the plate....
-Shookie <><
-Shookie <><
Originally Posted by EVILGRAFX
I broke two graphite bell crank plates today during qualifying, my third so far. Is anyone else breaking these easily? I didn't have any problems when running stock or 19T but, mod is another story. Tap a board and forget about it, that thing is toast. If this thing was made out of spring steel, it would rock. I guess that's why Yokomo didn't put a servo saver in the kit, the plate's probably going to break first.
Anyone know of someone who can machine some of these things out of spring steel? I would even take a graphite plate with only one or two ball stud holes on each side. Even if I had to buy a couple plates with different mounting locations for adjustments, I would think it would be much stonger.
Any ideas?
Anyone know of someone who can machine some of these things out of spring steel? I would even take a graphite plate with only one or two ball stud holes on each side. Even if I had to buy a couple plates with different mounting locations for adjustments, I would think it would be much stonger.
Any ideas?
07-10-2005, 06:23 PM
#2864
Matt: tried a couple of new things over the weekend on my BD, basically taking off from what we discussed here last week. I went back to laying my shocks in front all the way in (had mine one hole in from outter hole) but to compensate for the turn-in i would loose, changed my ackerman using by moving the stud on the rack forward (flipped the assembly as well). also removed the spacers under the front arm mounts to lower my roll center. i coupled this with using a ride accord body which really gives better off-power steering compared to the mazda ive been using since i started using the bd. lastly, i also went softer in terms of springs - rs yellow front, rs blue rear. gotta say, the car moves much better now. a little more tweaking is definitely needed but theres a noticable improvement. 
i have yet to try using the lower mount on the c-hubs. will try that out this weekend as well and see how that works out. thanks!
TO ALL THOSE WHO HELPED: thanks to for all the info. i'm sure i'll have more so hope you guys will bear with me.
i have yet to try using the lower mount on the c-hubs. will try that out this weekend as well and see how that works out. thanks!TO ALL THOSE WHO HELPED: thanks to for all the info. i'm sure i'll have more so hope you guys will bear with me.
07-10-2005, 06:39 PM
#2865
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by EVILGRAFX
I broke two graphite bell crank plates today during qualifying, my third so far. Is anyone else breaking these easily? I didn't have any problems when running stock or 19T but, mod is another story. Tap a board and forget about it, that thing is toast. If this thing was made out of spring steel, it would rock. I guess that's why Yokomo didn't put a servo saver in the kit, the plate's probably going to break first.
Anyone know of someone who can machine some of these things out of spring steel? I would even take a graphite plate with only one or two ball stud holes on each side. Even if I had to buy a couple plates with different mounting locations for adjustments, I would think it would be much stonger.
Any ideas?
Anyone know of someone who can machine some of these things out of spring steel? I would even take a graphite plate with only one or two ball stud holes on each side. Even if I had to buy a couple plates with different mounting locations for adjustments, I would think it would be much stonger.
Any ideas?
anyway no problems since.