k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

the last time I ran 13.5, I ran Andy Moore's 2009 IIC setup and changed the springs a little to suit my driving style...I also use the "S" middle deck on the car to get a little more flex in the rear end

CycloneS66six

iTrader: (2)

yeah i was gonna get a 13.5 turn but my track doesnt allow those in the novice class so i got a 17.5. thanks!

Touring Jr.

iTrader: (6)

Thanks bohar I will look into the differences. On another note I have read that more rear toe in will increase rear traction can any one validate this? This car handles almost like a drift car the way the rear end snaps out under power. Currently I also race an old Xray T1 and I hate to say this but it handles much better than the Hara and I only paid a 100 bucks for it. There has to be something up. I know these are good cars, just cant get it working.

05forfun

iTrader: (81)

Did you use tire compound?Using it properly can make a huge difference. Make sure the tires work as they should before any major adjustment

Touring Jr.

iTrader: (6)

Thanks. Yes I have tried several combinations, none in front 1/2 in front. Doesnt seem to make much difference.

RLMW VQ

iTrader: (11)

Touring Jr

where in il do you live i race for HB and can help you with setup if you need im in northern IL

decibels

iTrader: (3)

You need to have a balance of toe in on the rear to much will have a drifty rear end on and off power and to much will understeer on power and kick out wildly unexpectedly off power needing power to control it. But make sure you have no air in your shocks and most importantly your diff is very important if you do not get this setup well then you will always be taily on power all the time with understeer!!

madwestmo

hi , ive always had similiar problems , both same with a 13.5 and cyclone tc on low grip carpet with 24 tyres and no additive

would also apprieciate some advice on the loose back end

cherry2blost

iTrader: (1)

try 3 degree rear toe in, or try a thicker Front sway bar, course you could always soften the rear a bit, adjust the roll centres play with the droop, it all depends on when the back is loose and how? Is it under braking, or back on power? Few more bits of info would help everybody to help you mate

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

I had a similar issue with my cyclone and Vintage tires...I did the whole dealio - but what helped cure mine was to stand the front shocks up more (move the shock mounts to a more outter hole) and lay down the rear shocks more (move the mounts to a more inner hole)

this will transfer more weight to the rear of the chassis and should help with rear traction

i guess I either missed this or no one asked, but when are you 'drifting' when you are turning at speed or accelerating or what?

Touring Jr.

iTrader: (6)

Thanks guys for the replies. The problem is mostly under accelaration. I am running Exotek chassis, rear cut deck, silver-gold spring 2 hole pistons all around 50w frt and 40wt rr. Considering switching to blue pink spring combo. Only front sway bar as are all others in the club with all brands.

RLMW, Thanks I am in the Glen Ellyn Wheaton Area and our club uses the local jr high school gym every other weekend, sponsored by the school. I think it may be the only school sponsored RC club in the country. You are welcome to join us. It is a nice group of people and 2 teachers started this for the kids 20 years ago. Had my Son not joined I would not even now this world existed. Im hooked!

trickd122

iTrader: (3)

I had a similar issue last Sunday
took me ALL day to get it right

Here are a few suggestions
1. check your droop I usually start with 2mm above ride height all around.
2. check your tires make SURE that they are glued to the rim ALL around
3. Check your Diff make sure it's built properly
-- If youre not sure here's how I do it

--Korey gave me this tip and has worked ever since
1.) make sure it's SUPER clean. Clean everything with motor spray, even brand new parts.

2.)In the thrust bearing I think the manual says to use 7 thrust balls, I use 8. I figure it would last longer that way as it does with the normal diff balls (more is better). Pack the thrust bearing with Associated black grease, or Much More Black grease.

3.) Best diff grease ever is made by Schumacher. It's really thick.. almost like a wax. Just put a little bit in each hole in the pulley for the diff balls.

4.) Use HB ceramic diff balls... period. They are simply awesome.

5.) Break is important. I start with the diff very very loose... basically just so the diff plates have a very slight amount of tension on the diff balls. What I do is hold one outdrive and the pulley in one hand, and twist the other outdrive. I do 10 clockwise twists, then 10 counter clockwise. After that I flip the diff around and repeat on the other side. Tighten the diff a tick more, and repeat the process again. Once the diff is difficult to slip, I just leave it there and then adjust it while it's in the car to the desired tightness.

This is "slipping" the diff, but it helps break in the diff plates so they are concave to the diff balls. It results in more grip, and less tension is needed to get a properly diff. The result is a very free, non slipping diff. Sean Williams (teammate) and Hiro Kasuya (R&D specialist) now build their diffs this way after watching me do it at the Reedy Race.

michael.branth

HI I tried this set-up at my club and had similar issues, as did one of the top drivers, are you using the tamiya springs? if so I find the fronts to soft- try HB gold or white.

Reduce the rear droop so that the weight does not transfer to the front and go down to 35wt rear oil.

After doing this my car was super quick, its just a few small changes but for me worked great- I ve also seen drivers not use the rear sway bar so that may be worth trying.

mi

jag88

iTrader: (1)

I was running the aluminum diff in the rear and had problems with the blades bottoming out on the diff nut. I switched to the plastic diff halves because they don't require blades and found I had way more rear grip. A smooth diff is critical, do everything that's been said above and also make sure you sand the diff rings FLAT !

Touring Jr.

iTrader: (6)

Thanks alot guys,I will work on the diff. and slowly incorporate the other changes and post how it worked out.

TJ