Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

Zero rebound . I don't run the bladder foam, and I drilled a small hole in the shock cap to relieve pressure on top of the bladder.

-Korey

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

You're talking under the camber link correct? Just on the outside on the hub? Thats basically like running fewer shims on the inner pivot on the camber link. Usually that will give you less initial grip, and more through the middle and exit of the corner.

-Korey

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

The new mounts allow you to adjust swaybar tweak really easy. Sometimes swaybars aren't perfectly flat, and these allow you to adjust for that. I check swaybar tweak by putting my car with no shocks of tires on a setup board. Then I lift up on one suspension, and see how much travel it takes to make the other arm to start lifting. Adjust the length of those links to make it equal.

I also adjust swaybar angle with this. You can lengthen the left and right links equally to get a little more angle on the swaybar. It makes it feel a little more progressive/softer when you have more angle, and linear/stiffer when it's more flat (the ballstud is tightened all the way down)

-Korey

jonny123

Ive been using the older moorespeed ones. Never really had an issue with them being un-even. I like the design of the TC sway bars but the grub screw slips on the sway bar as you can't really tighten it up enough into the plastic. But hb make aluminium versions of the new sway bar holders too.

Hth
Jonny

tc3 racer sc

as of now barry baker tq in 13.5 at the birds if im not wrong 26 laps my hotbodies tc doing ok need more speed here at the birds

ShaunMac

Sounds like you need some TEKIN.

gixer

Hi guys,

Not too happy with the HB ball studs, a few slight impacts and they just shear off.
I've ordered a set of the 3racing titanium ones so hopefully these are a little better.

Next question is though, what ball cups are best?
Should i just stick with the A302's, or is there anything better out there please?




Cheers
Mark

trickd122

iTrader: (3)

Not exactly what I was asking I guess I needed to be more descriptive. I was actually refering to the shims on the hinge pins on the rear upright side. Now what effect does this have?

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

Ohhhhhh.... gotcha!

I adjust this when I need a little more forward grip usually. if you move the whole rear hub carrier a little more forward, it tends to give more forward grip. If you move it back, you get a little less. Handling... to me I can't tell much of a difference a lot of times. It's mainly the amount of grip I get in a straight line when hitting the throttle really hard

Hiro might have a better explanation of this though.

-Korey

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

I like HPI ball cups a lot actually. I've seen others use Yokomo and Lundsford before as well. Not sure exactly which ones people use though.

-Korey

SpidarX

iTrader: (3)

Ok, sorry for the delayed response. Again, the car had a slight understeer, which I would like to get help with. I would like the car to be a little bit more aggressive on initial turn in. My setup is below. We run on a medium grip asphalt parking lot, which is a little bumpy. We also run foam tires, which is a little different than the norm. Any help would be appreciated.

Front:
Spring: HPI Pro 4 Pink
Oil: Losi 70
Piston: HB 1.2mm 2 hole
Shock position: 3 on tower, 2 on arm
Camber link Position: 2, with 2mm under the inner mount.
Camber: 2deg
Toe: 0 deg out
Caster: 4 deg
Toe block: 2.5 deg
Shims under suspension blocks: 1.0mm front
Swaybar: 1.4mm w/ new style mount, with the screws backed out 2mm
Droop: 5.5mm from the center of the outer hinge pin to the setup board
Ride height: 6mm
Wheelbase: .7mm behind arm, 2mm in front

Rear:
Spring: Pro 4 Blue
Oil: Losi 70wt
Piston: HB 1.2mm 2 hole
Shock position: 5 on tower, 5 on arm
Camber: 2.5 deg
Camber Link Position: long on bulkhead (1mm under pivot) and short on rear hub (0mm under it).
Toe block: 3 deg
Shims under suspension mounts: 1.5mm all around
Swaybar: 1.2mm on new style mount with screws backed out 3mm.
Droop: 5.5mm measured from the outer hinge pin to the setup board.
Ride Height: 7mm
Wheelbase: 2mm in front of arm, .7mm behind it, and 2mm in front of hub, .7mm behind it.

Other:
Front Drive: Spool
Body: Protoform Mazdaspeed 6
Tires: Front 26mm 40 shore foams, Rear 30mm 40 shore foams
Motor: Novak 10.5

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

Try thinner shock oil like 50 wt and 1.1mm 3 hole pistons. That'll make the car more reactive overall. Also... I'm not sure if I typed it wrong or if you changed something, but I never run my rear shock in position #5 on the arm. Run position #3. That'll keep the rear end from rolling so much.

Other than that... maybe try different springs. Since you're running foam tires, there should be a good amount of grip. Maybe try slightly stiffer like gold front and silver rear.

-Korey

SpidarX

iTrader: (3)

Thanks Korey, I will give those things a try. I had to go to the #5 position on my rear shock to be able to have clearance for the 30mm wide rear tires.

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

Can you stand up the rear shocks on the tower and still have room? If not you might just want to go to a stiffer spring in the rear.

-Korey

michael.branth

get some 32's and be ahead of game!!!!,

I suppose 24 no additive would be similar, but could get to hot, depands on track, carpet set-up, .......I ve never really played with tyres much just try what the fast guys use