madwestmo

hi ,

Ive been racing for around a year now and have slowly built up my equipment , i have 2 x cyclone tc's , during the winter here in england i only race indoor on carpet , but i am having lots of problems getting my car setup right.... Ive tried the standard setup in the manual and also a few off the HB website but none with any luck...
The tracks i race on are kinda small compared to the ones ive seen in america and so on , the carpet we race on is proper race carpet but cant remember the name of it (its light grey :P)

Here is what i run :

13.5t SP 3.0 motor
5000 40c Intellect lipo
Futaba 9551 servo
SP LPF v2 ESC

Normally everyone seems to use Sorex 24r tyres and tyre warmers but no additive

Its getting quite fustrating as i am relativily new to rc racing so i dont know if its me or the car lol , the car has never really seemed to do exactly what i want it too and doesnt feel stable enough to push it to the edge

Can anyone give me some help on what i can do , maybe a starting off point for the car so i know its not the car and just my bad driving lol , everyone at my club runs xray, schumachers etc so cant ask anyone locally

Thanks for any help in advance

michael.branth

Hi, I ve had some problems adapting to rubber/carpet racing after having raced on polished wood ( common in the UK due to space, driving style is more rally than drift- you need to go forwards to be fast!!!!)for over a year and moving to a new club. The problem I ve found is that I push the car a lot mid-corner as I tend to throw it in , but in carpet this seems to make the car 'snap' and spin out. I am guessing your car is doing something like this rather than understeering?

I found that the solution ( whilst I practice and chnage my driving style- the ultimate soultion) was to use a set-up for high traction carpet- Korey posted one a few pages back and the barry baker 13.5 KO GP set-up is also for high traction. All I am doing now is slowly dialing more steering back in to suit my style: softer ft spring, rear shocks stood up one hole etc. something that I know does work is reducing the ankerman spacer, try 2mm get used to drving then start to build up, both set-ups mentioned above suggest 4mm but I prefer 3mm.

If that doe'nt help I hope it was interesting!!!!!!

CAN some one put links to set-up's? I am not allowed to post URL's yet

michael.branth

Hi, just messing with features and seeing if I could up-load:

CYclone tc
Exotek chassis
SP 13.5
SP esc
Hi-tec recviever
Futaba Servo

its now a hybrid using the best bits off at WCE I bought:
MIP's all round
alloy rear hubs
Tianium turn buckles
Purple alli screws
ALi diff mounts
Ali shock mounts
C/F bumper mount
ver 3 spool

Not sure if the above parts are standard but they were on the one I got second hand.

If this iamge up-loads I think I amy have found an easier way to make the holes for the suspension block mod- will post soon.

madwestmo

i tried the barry baker setup last night and found the rear to be very loose , so i stood the shocks up a bit more (like u mention) and this did help a little , also put .75 washers under the pivot blocks at the back and 1.5 at the front (both of these on the rear) to create some anti-dive and this also helped too but still felt kinda loose at the rear

thanks for the help so far

maybe the problem is too much grip at the front ???

trickd122

iTrader: (3)

That new Subaru boby is anyone here running it...on the specs it stated that the design embraces the use of a spool...is there really a difference between that and say a Maza 6 speed?

Korey-
You also mentioned that you liked using battery weight plates as opposed to putting the weights on top or to outside, is it possible to balance the car putting the weights toward the inner side of the battery and lastly I dont have access to a scale so approx hw much weight do I need to add and where PICS would be best

Equip
Battery TP 5000 40C
Servo Futaba 9451
ESC LRP SPX
Motor 13.5 DUO

michael.branth

If thats the case there is one thing that I have not tried yet which is super glueing the outside edge of your frnt tyre, there was a thread some where else where some one tried this, I suspect it will make the side wall harder making the tyre push a little bit more, could be a compromise to going to harder springs, if I have time this tuesday I am going to do a before and after on an oldish set of tyre to see just what difference it makes.

mi

theDover

Hey all....just signed with the HB Infantry. Got my kit on the way. Got a few questions for other Team members...

If there is anyone out there running their Cyclone on a High Traction, High Bite Outdoor Asphalt Track? 13.5 SS & Open Mod. Sprayed traction compound on surface.
I am gonna need a few pointers for set-ups. I'm coming from the AE TC5R and I have never ran this kit before and I am looking for a good set-up to start with. Maybe some hints and pointers to help out as well. Does anyone have a set-up sheet I could look at?

I'm looking forward to meeting you and being a part of the HB Team. Please feel free to PM me as well.

Thanks...
Benjamin Bailey
Kansas

MikeR

iTrader: (15)

Check out this set up book by Xray. Most of it should help you out with your Cyclone. Good reference for those new to on road TC as there is sooo much to learn.
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...487d970568721e

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

If the min weight rules are 1500g, I like using the weight plate. I just added about an ounce on the outside rear of the battery pack to counteract the motor hanging off the chassis a bit.

Now that our min weight rules in the US are 1420 (or 1425??? can't remember), I have had to use a different method. Hiro and I offset our battery pack and run little to no extra weight added to the car itself. We just move the battery to the outside more, then tape in place. I might be making myself like a tray/brace to see if I can get something to protect and hold the battery in the car a little more securely.

Mike at Exotek has done a really nice job making a cool lipo specific chassis for the cyclone that I hope to try sometime soon. This allows you to move the battery further out, and it also acts as a retainer with those cool stainless steel wrap around weight/retainers.

Oh almost forgot. The Subaru Type be has a little less downforce overall when compared to the mazdaspeed 6. It's a tick smoother, and keeps tire temperatures cooler when running on hot asphalt tracks. I like it for running on super high bite carpet, because it doesn't make the car so twitchy.

-Korey

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

Try putting the swaybar back on too if you aren't. I also would suggest changing the shims under the camber links to 3mm front and 2mm rear. It will make the car feel a little more neutral overall.

-Korey

madwestmo

Ive had a quick look through but there is alot to take in lol , from what i read i think maybe my rear diff isnt set correctly , some guy told me once to tighten it and now it is really tight , so tight i can barely turn it but it is still free moving and smooth , could this be my problem with the back end stepping out on corner exit ?

madwestmo

yeah i ran 1.2 swaybar in back (never tried without any) and i use to run 3mm on front camber link with some other setup which i got from this thread where i used pink springs all round

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

Sounds like Andy's 2009 IIC setup. It's usually a decent starting point. I typically rarely use the same spring all around on this car though. It usually doesn't feel quite right too me. You can also try running silver springs in the rear, or moving the bottom of the front shock out to hole #1 if you are using the Cyclone TC suspension arms. That'll help calm the car down.

-Korey

madwestmo

thanks for the help i will try this

btw ive been running 45w oil all round with 1.1mm 3 hole pistons , would this be ok for carpet ? or part of my problems ?

mark79

I've got an Exotek HBX chassis fitted and i've tried using the Hudy chassis balancing tools. I'm not convinced they let the chassis pivot freely though as the holes are not far off the diameter of the spikes.

Is there another way of accurately checking the balance fore/aft and side to side without needing 2 scales??

Thanks