SweepRacingUSA

iTrader: (6)

Hello

I drive a Losi car and have few of Brand new LCD set left, a freind of mine told me cyclone users also run a Losi LCD as conversion kit, If I put kit together like the attachment would it be good for $50.00 ?

Thanks

balistic

iTrader: (113)

Hi Korey

I was having a hard time getting an answer on what servo to run and I called HB. I was told what was recommended was 200oz at .10, how does that work with what is being said here? I have been running hitec 645mg that is like 130oz at .17.

What is the spec that would be best if the price point isn't in the equation?

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

The speed sounds about right, but the torque is a little overkill I think. I don't think you need a servo with quite that much torque for a touring car, but it's doesn't hurt either. At the reedy race, I was using a Futaba S9550, which has about 90 oz of torque and has a speed of about .11 second. I now use a Ko propo 2413 and love it, it's about the same speed but has 120 oz of torque. So I would say something with around 100z of torque would be great, and around a .10 transit speed. I use those servos mainly because they of the low profile type, and give the chassis a little more room to put stuff (like a transponder). I know Hiro likes the 2367 from KO (full size), which is around 200 oz of torque, and a .10 transit time.

If price or size isn't a factor, then I feel you can never have too much torque. It's better to have too much than too little. Speed... Some might disagree with me on this, but I have found anything faster than .08-.10 to be almost pointless. If you turn the wheel that fast to full lock, a lot of times the front tires will actually slip and cause the car to understeer. If you have a trained hand then it's great, but it can be a handful for some. Keep in mind, having a servo that is too slow can hurt you just as much. I have problems running a servo any slower than .15 in a touring car because they don't come back to center as fast as I like.

If price isn't a factor HB has also released some very high quality servos that have some impressive specs. Ko Propo also has many fantastic offerings for all budget levels now as well.

-Korey

billythekid

iTrader: (9)

Hi balistic, I have used S9551 and BLS 551 in my cyclone and I have to say BLS 551 is probably the best choice. It is smoother than S9551 and have much less play at neutral position. It also seems to center better and has more throw as well. I have not tried KO2413, I am sure it is a pretty good servo too. My recommendation is still BLS 551, since it uses brushless motor and is built on the very latest technology.

I have also performed some tests on various servos and I found anything quicker than 0.1S is overkilled, because there is no way I could turn the steering wheel lock to lock quicker than a servo with 0.1S speed.

I have to add that when you switch from a 0.17s to a 0.1s servo, your driving style may need to change a little, simply because the servo is so much quicker. For example, with the slower servo, you can simply turn at full speed at a corner, but with a quicker servo, you have to control how quickly you turn the steering wheel, so that the car is not pitched too hard into the corner.

balistic

iTrader: (113)

I may be over thinking here but I always try to turn at a controlled rate. I don't see the speed as an entry problem as much as back to center to catch a slide. I want to try at least once a badass high torque high speed servo just to see if I am letting the servo drive the car or if I am?

As concise as the data here is on what speed (0.10) the servo should be there is still a 100% variance on what torque should be? I plan to err on the high side just to see.

thanks guys.

cosmo1974

iTrader: (3)

(1) I think the Futaba 9551 sounds reasonable.
Only available online from A Main at present (everyone else is out of stock).
Selling for around US$85.

(2) Also, I just discovered a Hitec 645 in an old off road buggy at home.
Torque is 133 and speed is 0.2; slow-ish but I'm not sure how critical this is.
Not digital either.

Cheers

JR007

Still after a starting set-up for outdoor asphalt if anyone has one

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

I've mentioned a few times in the last few pages that Atsushi Hara's 2008 Reedy Race setup is a good starting point. Hope that helps.

-Korey

Super Steve

iTrader: (9)

anyone upgrade their driveline to the LCD type?
If you have, someone sell me a pair your old universals.
PM me please

billythekid

iTrader: (9)

I think you can only use the torque to a certain extend due to the strength of the servo saver.

Anyway, the most bad ass high speed, high torque servos are the new Associated (Thunder Tiger) and Orion Vortex servos, which has very high speed and very high torque. They are not too pricy as well, both are below $100 I believe. But they are not brushless.

Anyway, if the too is too fast, you can always turn it down on your transmitter.

zleader_99

iTrader: (20)

I recently picked up a TC and in the process of trading for a Moore edition. My question is what are the differences? I assume the TC is the current model with a different internal ratio. Can I stock up on parts for one and use on the either.

I plan on running the TC 13.5 brusless and the Moore Black can both rubber.

Advil

iTrader: (19)

I would probably stay with the TC. It has the better diff. Both cars are equally fast though...

Add a Version 3 spool to the TC or add the TC diff to the Moore. and you should be set.

Tony Vega

iTrader: (8)

So I just picked up the Lipo Upper Deck kit 67695 and was wondering what the smaller of the two purple aluminum pieces are for? I would think it is to make up the difference between the rear rear bulkhead and the upper deck but I would think it would be a washer instead of a rectangular piece. The hole pattern matches up with the bottom of the rear bulkhead but if I installed it underneath it, then the layshaft would sit ant an angle. Help Hiro, Korey, Art, Race Nuts, anyone with this kit?

artwork

iTrader: (88)

Someone posted about this earlier...I think it is for one of the older cyclones and is not needed for the TC. You do however need the 2mm round shim that comes with the kit. As long as it looks level you should be good to go.

Tony Vega

iTrader: (8)

Got it figured out. The spacer is if you use the BL motor mount. I didn't get a round 2mm spacer in my conversion. Is it just one of the spacers used throughout the kit? 2mm?