Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

It is true, touring cars are very complicated. I don't mess with the really odd ball adjustments very often though. Usually I'll do it once, then leave it the same for any other setup I use. Many of the adjustments are so small on a touring car, just doing the major things (springs, oil, position, droop) is all you need most of the time. As long as you have a solid base setup, you should be fine. Also making sure tweak and ride height are correct are commonly missed things that can make or break a car.

The cyclone is actually a little more simplistic than some other cars. Even some of those manufactures of more adjustable cars have recognized that and simplified their cars some.

balistic

iTrader: (113)

I can see if the angle of the bar is away from the angle of the arm the leverage would go down. What I don't understand is how this softness is only realized in the initial movement becoming stiffer later in the turn? or with more body roll? does this work with rubber/pavement? Or carpet?

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

What I have found when running a spool, when you make the rear end of the car roll a lot, it actually creates MORE steering. It sounds really odd, and it took me a long time to stop being stubborn and accept it. At the reedy race, I kept stiffening the rear end to get more steering, but it would almost always have the opposite effect. When I softened the rear end, and let the car roll around more. the ending result was a car that had good rotation, but was still very stable. I'm sure this depends on how much grip is on the track, because in low grip conditions it always seems the typical train of thought works.

Anyway, a lot of times on smooth/high grip tracks, thicker swaybars in the rear of the car almost always create more rear grip. My only thought is, it keeps the rear end from dumping over so much, and prevents the rear end from loosing grip.

So when the gap is increased on the rear, the swaybar is basically a little softer, then stiffens up. To me, the car had a lot more initial steering into the corner, but through the middle and exit it mellowed out a bit, and the rear end was more stable through the rest of the corner. Going off of previous experiences, it feels as though the swaybar starts of softer, then gets stiffer. I could be wrong though, it could just be softer all around. But from the previous experiences I've had, that's the best way I could explain it.

Using fewer shims, it just feels as though the swaybar acts like it normally does. It doesn't really change through the corner so much. That's mainly why I say it feels more "linear".

I've mainly only been recently fiddling with this, so on asphalt. Carpet is pretty non existent here in the summer.

-Korey

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

i'm assuming you mean the 'gap' between the end of the swap bar and the mount to the arm?

If so, when you bring it that far forward, don't you rub on the front drive shafts???

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

It's the length of the linkage that connects the swaybar to the suspension arm. There is a ball stud there and you can screw it in, or out to adjust for swaybar tweak, and "swaybar rake".

-Korey

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

so i'm guessing that won't work with the non-TC swaybar setup? Unless, of course, I change over to the TC setup

EJ20

You could still doing the same adjustment on the old style, but the way I did was by move the alum. ball forward or backward a little to adjust that. But it's very little that I can feel the differences, may be Hiro San can explain little more about it.

billythekid

iTrader: (9)

Thanks for sharing Tom. How do you keep the SMC pack from sliding out of the car, since it doesn't have any bumps at the bottom?

tomracing

like this:

they are 1inch stainless bookshelf angles cut to fit then glued using good 5minute epoxy.
once i had one take a hit directly on the lipo side. then one came loose but just re glued it and stuck since.

billythekid

iTrader: (9)

Thanks for the photos, Tom. Currently, I use side way tapes to secure the SMC packs.

Honestly, I am quite dissapointed that after lipo has become the standard for years, HB has yet to come out with a practical solution for lipo. I have been waiting and waiting, hoping HB has been working on a good solution that doesn't require their customers to make time consuming customizations. And yes, I am very dissapointed. The unsymetrical upper deck that they just released is simply an ad hoc bug fix, which doesn't really resolve the problem for securing lipo packs. What are they thinking? Now I feel like I am at an disadvantage driving a Cyclone. I truly hope HB will come out with a more thoughtful solution very soon. Is it really that difficult?

Scott B

iTrader: (47)

"Standard for years", What??? Roar just approved them for racing LAST year, besides there only legal for ROAR raceing. Most of the other countrys haven't changed there rules for lipos yet. So should HB's build a new lipo friendly car just for the US??

What manufacter designed there car to secure lipo packs, besides TOP??? NO ONE!!! Everything out is aftermarket.

As for the "unsymetrical upper deck", it didn't hurt Korey H. when he ran it at this years Reedy race, he qual. 2nd and finished 3rd also Tq'ing the 3rd round of Qualifing!!!

I ONLY use one piece of strapping tape to hold my lipos in and I haven't lost one this year!!! (TP 5000 on a PPD plate) And yes I DO hit the walls!!!

If you feel at a disadvantage driving a Cyclone, because the 5 year old car wasen't designed to hold a lipo maybe its time for a change!!!

billythekid

iTrader: (9)

Hey Scott, have you seen the solutions by Xray and Corally? It isn't really that difficult, all it takes is just some initiatives.

So, do you not think HB could have done a better job with their lipo solution? What about those who are just starting out with touring cars, should they spend the unecessary time and trouble to figure out how to secure their lipo packs? Isn't that supposed to be the manufacturer's job?

I see HB in your signature. Do you work or run for HB? You should be ashamed to bash a customer's comment.

Hebiki

iTrader: (26)

can you REALLY tell the difference btw a symmetrical and asymmetrical top deck? and if you can tell the difference, that means your a TOP LEVEL PROFESSIONAL driver so one of two things happen....

1. you get your stuff for free... and/or
2. you dont run lipo b/c all you run is mod and thats 5cell nimh at the worlds level so the top deck doesnt affect you anyways...

i really doubt your driving skills are high enough to notice the difference. you're not Hara, Rheinard or Masami....

Scott B

iTrader: (47)

I forgot about the Xray blocks, and the corally system I have seen are from Specialized RC, So "aftermarket".

Also those cars came out with holes in the chassis to mount a battery strap or the little plastic cell blocks (xray), so they only had to design something aroung mounting holes already there. There are no holes around the edge of a HB's chassis so any "lipo upgrade system" would have to include a new chassis, adding atleast another $75 to any system they came up with. Not worth it to me!!!

As for, if I think HB could have done a better job with their lipo solution. The new topdeck and bulkhead have NOTHING to do with securing a lipo it was only made to allow for the larger 5000, 5200, and now 6000 lipos so people didn't have to mill the middle right bulhead.

As I sayed I don't have a problem as well as many others I have seen. That dosen't say there isn't a problem for some.

Maybe you can take a drill and mount the TOP or XRAY system to your chassis, all it takes is just some initiatives!!!

Scott B

iTrader: (47)

I run for HB's, and I'm NOT ashamed for what I sayed, I don't like when people bash a product or company I support!!