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Old 07-16-2009, 04:47 PM
  #16846  
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Originally Posted by We Are Ninja
Hot Bodies would be up the the Cyclone 4 by the time I got through this whole thread.
If you would have started reading when you first posted your bid on the cyclone you would be halfway finished already....
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Old 07-16-2009, 06:59 PM
  #16847  
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I have a PPD tweak plate for the cyclone forsale.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ml#post6077566

I need to raise some cash, and I am trying my best to not sell my Moore Speed before I get to run it lol.

It is has some girth to it. I am sure you could knock out a wombat or other small creature with it in one shot lol.
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Old 07-16-2009, 08:19 PM
  #16848  
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I am also upgrading a Cyclone S. I am thinking if i wait a little bit there will be a new chassis with the servo turned 90 degrees.
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Old 07-17-2009, 02:37 PM
  #16849  
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Default Help to a new Cyclone owner

I am getting back into racing and picked up second hand Cyclone TC. I did have a TC5 which I gave to my son to get him going in racing and a s400 sold for lack of parts support. So I do have a bit of understanding; while racing local club events once and a while.
I did try to read back on the posts with over a 1000 there is a lot of information to take in. So I going to ask a few questions and hope I dont get flamed just redirected to the info I am trying to find.

I plan on running 13.5 brushless/Rubber class. with a trakpower lipo 4900.

Will my lipo have any issues to seat in this chassis. If so is there a correction or parts to fix this?

Can some point me in a direction for a good setup for this car?

What internat ratio should I be using? gearing? and Rollout?

Can someone list a noobs crash kit list I should be stocking up on? What are the weakest links in this kit?

If you dont want to clutter the forum you can PM me.

Thanks
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Old 07-17-2009, 04:32 PM
  #16850  
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Can anyone send me a link for a gearchart I think I saw on this thread for the cyclone? I think it was a simple excell type sheet, not sure, thanks. I treid looking thru the pages, but 1100 pages!
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Old 07-17-2009, 05:38 PM
  #16851  
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gearchart.com
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Old 07-17-2009, 09:22 PM
  #16852  
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Originally Posted by zleader_99
I am getting back into racing and picked up second hand Cyclone TC. I did have a TC5 which I gave to my son to get him going in racing and a s400 sold for lack of parts support. So I do have a bit of understanding; while racing local club events once and a while.
I did try to read back on the posts with over a 1000 there is a lot of information to take in. So I going to ask a few questions and hope I dont get flamed just redirected to the info I am trying to find.

I plan on running 13.5 brushless/Rubber class. with a trakpower lipo 4900.

Will my lipo have any issues to seat in this chassis. If so is there a correction or parts to fix this?

Can some point me in a direction for a good setup for this car?

What internat ratio should I be using? gearing? and Rollout?

Can someone list a noobs crash kit list I should be stocking up on? What are the weakest links in this kit?

If you dont want to clutter the forum you can PM me.

Thanks
Hello,

1.) You can grind the stock bulkhead about 2mm to give more clearance for the battery pack. If you don't feel comfortable doing that, HB now offers a really cool bulkhead and upper deck combo that frees up some room for lipos with no performance loss.

http://www.hotbodiesonline.com/products/en/67695.html

2.) Go on to the setup sheets on hot bodies website. Either Hiro's Starting setup, Hara's Reedy Race setup, or Andy Moore's Worlds setup is a pretty good starting point.

3.) Hmmm... The Final drive ratio is really dependant on which 13.5 motor AND ESC you plan to run. If running a Sphere TC spec, shoot for a final drive in the low-mid 4 range. For tighter indoor tracks, mid-high 4's should be good.

When running a super high timing advance setup on our current generation ESC's like the LRP SPX, Tekin RS Pro, and the Ko Propo BMC 1.5... you will need to gear more conservatively, sometimes dropped as much as 4-5 teeth when using 64 pitch gears. Just make sure temps are reasonable (between 150-170 F) and it should be pretty good.

4.) Grab some arms, steering knuckles and rear hubs (they come in the same pack), maybe some 4 deg caster blocks, and a few universal shafts. That covers things that can break and bend in a bad crash. Also get a good selection of spacers. These can be used all over the car to adjust roll center, wheelbase, swaybar rake, anti-dive, ect...

Hope that helps!

-Korey
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Old 07-18-2009, 02:33 PM
  #16853  
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke
The new Subaru actually works extremely well. It handles like a cross between a Protoform Mazda 6 and a Mazdaspeed 6. It's a tick smoother than a Mazdaspeed, so it works well in a variety of conditions. It should be readily available very soon.

-Korey
Hey Korey, how would you compare the Subaru with Protoform's new LTCR?
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Old 07-18-2009, 03:30 PM
  #16854  
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Thanks Korey for the input.

I plan on running a novak 13.5ss and GTB controler. I do have a wide selection of 64 pitch gears to matching the combination should be fine. Should I be interested in changing the internal ratio of the chassis to run the brushless?
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Old 07-18-2009, 04:21 PM
  #16855  
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Originally Posted by zleader_99
Thanks Korey for the input.

I plan on running a novak 13.5ss and GTB controler. I do have a wide selection of 64 pitch gears to matching the combination should be fine. Should I be interested in changing the internal ratio of the chassis to run the brushless?
it all depends on the size of the track and what is comfortable for you.
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Old 07-18-2009, 09:32 PM
  #16856  
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Originally Posted by zleader_99
Thanks Korey for the input.

I plan on running a novak 13.5ss and GTB controler. I do have a wide selection of 64 pitch gears to matching the combination should be fine. Should I be interested in changing the internal ratio of the chassis to run the brushless?
Well, HB does offer 18T center pulleys that come on the Cyclone TC (as opposed to 16T) and that lowers the internal ratio from 2.4375 to 2.1667. It'll make it a little easier to gear brushless motors, and will make the drivetrain a tick freer. So if you can find those parts, those are always good to get.

-Korey
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Old 07-18-2009, 10:21 PM
  #16857  
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Originally Posted by billythekid
Hey Korey, how would you compare the Subaru with Protoform's new LTCR?
It's smoother I would think. I've honestly had very limited experience with the LTCR, but going off of what others say, the LTCR has more steering than the Mazdaspeed. The Subaru was designed to fall right in between the mazda 6 and the mazdaspeed 6. From testing, it has shown to be very neutral and easy to drive with. I'd say it's worth having in your arsenal of bodies to try . It's actually one of my favorites now.

-Korey
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Old 07-18-2009, 10:52 PM
  #16858  
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Originally Posted by zleader_99
Thanks Korey for the input.

I plan on running a novak 13.5ss and GTB controler. I do have a wide selection of 64 pitch gears to matching the combination should be fine. Should I be interested in changing the internal ratio of the chassis to run the brushless?
the 16t pulley's are fine for brushless. I wish i didn't spend the $$ upgrading
to the bigger pulley's and longer belts. I went from an 88t spur to a 100t spur because of the change using the same pinions.

Go with a small spur and the stock pulley's, your good.
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Old 07-19-2009, 12:51 AM
  #16859  
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Default Gears

I've got a Cyclone TC with the 18 tooth drive gear giving me an IDR of 2.1667.

I want to run 540 brushed, 540 sport brushed and 10 turn brushless with the one car but am having trouble sourcing 64 pitch spur and pinion gears.

Other than HPI, can anybody suggest an alternate manufacturer/supplier?

I'm sick and tired of searching the world to pay $3 for one gear and $30 for postage.

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Old 07-19-2009, 07:06 AM
  #16860  
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Default li-po conversion kit

Have any one use the conversion kit for the LI-PO kit yet? I am not sure what the third part is use for the long alu part with two holes can someone explain.
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