Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road
Hot Bodies Cyclone >

Hot Bodies Cyclone

Hot Bodies Cyclone

Old 02-19-2009, 12:37 PM
  #15346  
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: england
Posts: 304
Default

will the tc chassis fit on the moore cyclone without any mods? need a new chassis and wud rather have the tc one instead...

thanks
mwoods is offline  
Old 02-19-2009, 12:47 PM
  #15347  
Tech Elite
 
ShaunMac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Loading...
Posts: 3,421
Default

Originally Posted by mwoods
will the tc chassis fit on the moore cyclone without any mods? need a new chassis and wud rather have the tc one instead...

thanks
Yes. The screw pattern is the same on both chassis'. All the older bulkheads will bolt right on to the new TC chassis.
ShaunMac is offline  
Old 02-19-2009, 01:49 PM
  #15348  
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: england
Posts: 304
Default

Originally Posted by ShaunMac
Yes. The screw pattern is the same on both chassis'. All the older bulkheads will bolt right on to the new TC chassis.
i thought it was just wanted to make sure b4 i order one

thanks..
mwoods is offline  
Old 02-19-2009, 08:43 PM
  #15349  
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
 
gentleman81's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: VA Baby
Posts: 1,657
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default elec comparison

out of the models that are out for this car, what is the one that is proving to be the most bang for the buck. comparing this car against all the elec big dogs
gentleman81 is offline  
Old 02-20-2009, 08:46 AM
  #15350  
Tech Elite
 
ShaunMac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Loading...
Posts: 3,421
Default

The TC is the current production model available in the Cyclone lineup. You can still find the older versions if you look around. Best "bang for your buck" in the world of competition touring cars has to be either the Cyclone TC or AE TC5.

TC Improvements over previous Cyclones - from Hotbodiesonline.com
Pro Spec Ball Diff in rear - IMO the biggest improvement.
HB Two-Way front one-way/spool
Larger 18T center pulleys
FRP middle block deck for increased rear traction
Revised main chassis for improved weight distribution
Altered upper deck with provisions for HB ATC (Adjustable Torsion Control) posts
Stronger upper bulkheads for improved crash protection
Thicker low-mount shock towers to fit extra-low bodyshells
New reversible suspension arms with more suspension mount options
Easy-adjust sway bar holders for fast fine-tuning
Moulded battery tray for easy fitting of batteries
Extra-efficient universal dogbones
Fantastic lower price
ShaunMac is offline  
Old 02-21-2009, 07:34 PM
  #15351  
Tech Regular
 
deanomgwhiteguy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Townsville
Posts: 271
Default

hey guys
wat would be the difference if you removed the rear pro diff and put in another one way diff because im having a problem with them having a even output im not sure wether i should just but some locktite on the screw that holds it together or just put in a one way.

also in my front drive shaft wear u put the pin in for the axle, my pin sometimes comes loose and snaps, its only hapend 3 times but it is still very anoying if anyone has ideas that could help me they would be apreciated thankz
deanomgwhiteguy is offline  
Old 02-22-2009, 04:04 AM
  #15352  
Tech Master
iTrader: (14)
 
sparksy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Brisvagas
Posts: 1,989
Trader Rating: 14 (94%+)
Default

Originally Posted by deanomgwhiteguy
hey guys
wat would be the difference if you removed the rear pro diff and put in another one way diff because im having a problem with them having a even output im not sure wether i should just but some locktite on the screw that holds it together or just put in a one way.

also in my front drive shaft wear u put the pin in for the axle, my pin sometimes comes loose and snaps, its only hapend 3 times but it is still very anoying if anyone has ideas that could help me they would be apreciated thankz
If you put a oneway in the rear you will have no brakes. And I'm pretty sure your belts will not line up with the pully. Take your time and re-build the diff correctly. Take it in to HERC and get Kieth to help you.

As for your front pin. They usually break if your steering lock is too much. Check to see that your end points are set correctly, and limit the steering throw if needed.
sparksy is offline  
Old 02-22-2009, 06:57 AM
  #15353  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (12)
 
RC MARKET's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: HK
Posts: 6,279
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Default

TITC 09
Attached Thumbnails Hot Bodies Cyclone-m_a.jpg  
RC MARKET is offline  
Old 02-22-2009, 09:28 AM
  #15354  
Tech Elite
 
ShaunMac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Loading...
Posts: 3,421
Default

Originally Posted by deanomgwhiteguy
hey guys
wat would be the difference if you removed the rear pro diff and put in another one way diff because im having a problem with them having a even output im not sure wether i should just but some locktite on the screw that holds it together or just put in a one way.

also in my front drive shaft wear u put the pin in for the axle, my pin sometimes comes loose and snaps, its only hapend 3 times but it is still very anoying if anyone has ideas that could help me they would be apreciated thankz
Not quite sure what you mean by "even output"? You DON'T want to run a one-way in the rear. The on-power spool action and off-power free wheeling will make your handling issues even worse. A smooth, well built diff can make a world of difference when it comes to handling. I've had a car go from rags to riches just from a simple diff rebuild.

Put a small amount of loctite on the set screw holding the pin in place. I use the WC CVD's in front and Uni's in the rear. I've never had a single pin come out in my 2 years racing a Cyclone.

Good Luck
ShaunMac is offline  
Old 02-22-2009, 09:29 AM
  #15355  
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
 
gentleman81's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: VA Baby
Posts: 1,657
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by ShaunMac
The TC is the current production model available in the Cyclone lineup. You can still find the older versions if you look around. Best "bang for your buck" in the world of competition touring cars has to be either the Cyclone TC or AE TC5.

TC Improvements over previous Cyclones - from Hotbodiesonline.com
Pro Spec Ball Diff in rear - IMO the biggest improvement.
HB Two-Way front one-way/spool
Larger 18T center pulleys
FRP middle block deck for increased rear traction
Revised main chassis for improved weight distribution
Altered upper deck with provisions for HB ATC (Adjustable Torsion Control) posts
Stronger upper bulkheads for improved crash protection
Thicker low-mount shock towers to fit extra-low bodyshells
New reversible suspension arms with more suspension mount options
Easy-adjust sway bar holders for fast fine-tuning
Moulded battery tray for easy fitting of batteries
Extra-efficient universal dogbones
Fantastic lower price
i heard that the cyclone had some durability issues, was this just with the earlier less expensive models?
gentleman81 is offline  
Old 02-22-2009, 09:37 AM
  #15356  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (30)
 
k_bojar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 7,021
Trader Rating: 30 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by gentleman81
i heard that the cyclone had some durability issues, was this just with the earlier less expensive models?
what kind of issues are you referring to?? I've never had a single issue with my cyclone - I have the "original" black version of the chassis, the one before the hara/surikarn/wce versions...

I know the "S" chassis has some issues with the chassis, but nothing with then non-S version...

so I'm not sure what you are referring to?
k_bojar is offline  
Old 02-22-2009, 09:51 AM
  #15357  
Tech Elite
 
ShaunMac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Loading...
Posts: 3,421
Default

Originally Posted by gentleman81
i heard that the cyclone had some durability issues, was this just with the earlier less expensive models?
I'm running the OG "black" Cyclone. I can't speak for others but the only parts I have broken are hubs, arms and steering blocks. These weren't from just "brushing" the wall either. The were from outright brain farts! Everything has held up nicely over the years. No real issues that I can speak of from experience.
ShaunMac is offline  
Old 02-22-2009, 10:27 AM
  #15358  
Tech Elite
 
ShaunMac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Loading...
Posts: 3,421
Default

Did anyone else know they were running Mini classes at RCS for the 2009 TITC race? It seems a lot of the pro drivers were also having fun running Minis this weekend.

TITC 2009
Attached Thumbnails Hot Bodies Cyclone-img_0368.jpg  
ShaunMac is offline  
Old 02-22-2009, 10:41 AM
  #15359  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (30)
 
k_bojar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 7,021
Trader Rating: 30 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by ShaunMac
Did anyone else know they were running Mini classes at RCS for the 2009 TITC race? It seems a lot of the pro drivers were also having fun running Minis this weekend.

TITC 2009
and it looks like 2wd mini's to boot So I'm guessing a lot of MO3's out there
k_bojar is offline  
Old 02-22-2009, 01:09 PM
  #15360  
Tech Regular
 
deanomgwhiteguy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Townsville
Posts: 271
Default

Originally Posted by ShaunMac
Not quite sure what you mean by "even output"? You DON'T want to run a one-way in the rear. The on-power spool action and off-power free wheeling will make your handling issues even worse. A smooth, well built diff can make a world of difference when it comes to handling. I've had a car go from rags to riches just from a simple diff rebuild.

Put a small amount of loctite on the set screw holding the pin in place. I use the WC CVD's in front and Uni's in the rear. I've never had a single pin come out in my 2 years racing a Cyclone.

Good Luck
i mite re-build it later on when i get better electronics i got it back to normal again. my problem was that the belt was taking more spin to my right wheel then the left and when i accelerate it goes left so yer i think locktite for now

and as for the cvds im curious is the WC and the TC the same things or completly different and if the WC is a different car please send me the link thankz
deanomgwhiteguy is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.