Hot Bodies Cyclone
Tech Regular
will the tc chassis fit on the moore cyclone without any mods? need a new chassis and wud rather have the tc one instead...
thanks
thanks
Tech Regular
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
elec comparison
out of the models that are out for this car, what is the one that is proving to be the most bang for the buck. comparing this car against all the elec big dogs
The TC is the current production model available in the Cyclone lineup. You can still find the older versions if you look around. Best "bang for your buck" in the world of competition touring cars has to be either the Cyclone TC or AE TC5.
TC Improvements over previous Cyclones - from Hotbodiesonline.com
Pro Spec Ball Diff in rear - IMO the biggest improvement.
HB Two-Way front one-way/spool
Larger 18T center pulleys
FRP middle block deck for increased rear traction
Revised main chassis for improved weight distribution
Altered upper deck with provisions for HB ATC (Adjustable Torsion Control) posts
Stronger upper bulkheads for improved crash protection
Thicker low-mount shock towers to fit extra-low bodyshells
New reversible suspension arms with more suspension mount options
Easy-adjust sway bar holders for fast fine-tuning
Moulded battery tray for easy fitting of batteries
Extra-efficient universal dogbones
Fantastic lower price
TC Improvements over previous Cyclones - from Hotbodiesonline.com
Pro Spec Ball Diff in rear - IMO the biggest improvement.
HB Two-Way front one-way/spool
Larger 18T center pulleys
FRP middle block deck for increased rear traction
Revised main chassis for improved weight distribution
Altered upper deck with provisions for HB ATC (Adjustable Torsion Control) posts
Stronger upper bulkheads for improved crash protection
Thicker low-mount shock towers to fit extra-low bodyshells
New reversible suspension arms with more suspension mount options
Easy-adjust sway bar holders for fast fine-tuning
Moulded battery tray for easy fitting of batteries
Extra-efficient universal dogbones
Fantastic lower price
hey guys
wat would be the difference if you removed the rear pro diff and put in another one way diff because im having a problem with them having a even output im not sure wether i should just but some locktite on the screw that holds it together or just put in a one way.
also in my front drive shaft wear u put the pin in for the axle, my pin sometimes comes loose and snaps, its only hapend 3 times but it is still very anoying if anyone has ideas that could help me they would be apreciated thankz
wat would be the difference if you removed the rear pro diff and put in another one way diff because im having a problem with them having a even output im not sure wether i should just but some locktite on the screw that holds it together or just put in a one way.
also in my front drive shaft wear u put the pin in for the axle, my pin sometimes comes loose and snaps, its only hapend 3 times but it is still very anoying if anyone has ideas that could help me they would be apreciated thankz
Tech Master
iTrader: (14)
hey guys
wat would be the difference if you removed the rear pro diff and put in another one way diff because im having a problem with them having a even output im not sure wether i should just but some locktite on the screw that holds it together or just put in a one way.
also in my front drive shaft wear u put the pin in for the axle, my pin sometimes comes loose and snaps, its only hapend 3 times but it is still very anoying if anyone has ideas that could help me they would be apreciated thankz
wat would be the difference if you removed the rear pro diff and put in another one way diff because im having a problem with them having a even output im not sure wether i should just but some locktite on the screw that holds it together or just put in a one way.
also in my front drive shaft wear u put the pin in for the axle, my pin sometimes comes loose and snaps, its only hapend 3 times but it is still very anoying if anyone has ideas that could help me they would be apreciated thankz
As for your front pin. They usually break if your steering lock is too much. Check to see that your end points are set correctly, and limit the steering throw if needed.
TITC 09
hey guys
wat would be the difference if you removed the rear pro diff and put in another one way diff because im having a problem with them having a even output im not sure wether i should just but some locktite on the screw that holds it together or just put in a one way.
also in my front drive shaft wear u put the pin in for the axle, my pin sometimes comes loose and snaps, its only hapend 3 times but it is still very anoying if anyone has ideas that could help me they would be apreciated thankz
wat would be the difference if you removed the rear pro diff and put in another one way diff because im having a problem with them having a even output im not sure wether i should just but some locktite on the screw that holds it together or just put in a one way.
also in my front drive shaft wear u put the pin in for the axle, my pin sometimes comes loose and snaps, its only hapend 3 times but it is still very anoying if anyone has ideas that could help me they would be apreciated thankz
Put a small amount of loctite on the set screw holding the pin in place. I use the WC CVD's in front and Uni's in the rear. I've never had a single pin come out in my 2 years racing a Cyclone.
Good Luck
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
The TC is the current production model available in the Cyclone lineup. You can still find the older versions if you look around. Best "bang for your buck" in the world of competition touring cars has to be either the Cyclone TC or AE TC5.
TC Improvements over previous Cyclones - from Hotbodiesonline.com
Pro Spec Ball Diff in rear - IMO the biggest improvement.
HB Two-Way front one-way/spool
Larger 18T center pulleys
FRP middle block deck for increased rear traction
Revised main chassis for improved weight distribution
Altered upper deck with provisions for HB ATC (Adjustable Torsion Control) posts
Stronger upper bulkheads for improved crash protection
Thicker low-mount shock towers to fit extra-low bodyshells
New reversible suspension arms with more suspension mount options
Easy-adjust sway bar holders for fast fine-tuning
Moulded battery tray for easy fitting of batteries
Extra-efficient universal dogbones
Fantastic lower price
TC Improvements over previous Cyclones - from Hotbodiesonline.com
Pro Spec Ball Diff in rear - IMO the biggest improvement.
HB Two-Way front one-way/spool
Larger 18T center pulleys
FRP middle block deck for increased rear traction
Revised main chassis for improved weight distribution
Altered upper deck with provisions for HB ATC (Adjustable Torsion Control) posts
Stronger upper bulkheads for improved crash protection
Thicker low-mount shock towers to fit extra-low bodyshells
New reversible suspension arms with more suspension mount options
Easy-adjust sway bar holders for fast fine-tuning
Moulded battery tray for easy fitting of batteries
Extra-efficient universal dogbones
Fantastic lower price
Tech Champion
iTrader: (30)
I know the "S" chassis has some issues with the chassis, but nothing with then non-S version...
so I'm not sure what you are referring to?
I'm running the OG "black" Cyclone. I can't speak for others but the only parts I have broken are hubs, arms and steering blocks. These weren't from just "brushing" the wall either. The were from outright brain farts! Everything has held up nicely over the years. No real issues that I can speak of from experience.
Did anyone else know they were running Mini classes at RCS for the 2009 TITC race? It seems a lot of the pro drivers were also having fun running Minis this weekend.
TITC 2009
TITC 2009
Not quite sure what you mean by "even output"? You DON'T want to run a one-way in the rear. The on-power spool action and off-power free wheeling will make your handling issues even worse. A smooth, well built diff can make a world of difference when it comes to handling. I've had a car go from rags to riches just from a simple diff rebuild.
Put a small amount of loctite on the set screw holding the pin in place. I use the WC CVD's in front and Uni's in the rear. I've never had a single pin come out in my 2 years racing a Cyclone.
Good Luck
Put a small amount of loctite on the set screw holding the pin in place. I use the WC CVD's in front and Uni's in the rear. I've never had a single pin come out in my 2 years racing a Cyclone.
Good Luck
and as for the cvds im curious is the WC and the TC the same things or completly different and if the WC is a different car please send me the link thankz