Hot Bodies Cyclone
The 2 & 6 degree hubs are also useful for maintaining ~4 degrees caster when running kick-up or anti-dive.
Tech Adept
yes I have noticed, I love the 6deg on the sweeper early in the day.
I also still would like to know if anyone has run other parts other than cyclone parts for "in a pinch" there has to be some of you out there in the same position that have used other parts I.E. tamiya C-hubs xray steering blocks etc etc..I usually will have the part I need on hand but would love to know since my track does not carry my car parts well they are slowly starting to work with me
I also still would like to know if anyone has run other parts other than cyclone parts for "in a pinch" there has to be some of you out there in the same position that have used other parts I.E. tamiya C-hubs xray steering blocks etc etc..I usually will have the part I need on hand but would love to know since my track does not carry my car parts well they are slowly starting to work with me
yes I have noticed, I love the 6deg on the sweeper early in the day.
I also still would like to know if anyone has run other parts other than cyclone parts for "in a pinch" there has to be some of you out there in the same position that have used other parts I.E. tamiya C-hubs xray steering blocks etc etc..I usually will have the part I need on hand but would love to know since my track does not carry my car parts well they are slowly starting to work with me
I also still would like to know if anyone has run other parts other than cyclone parts for "in a pinch" there has to be some of you out there in the same position that have used other parts I.E. tamiya C-hubs xray steering blocks etc etc..I usually will have the part I need on hand but would love to know since my track does not carry my car parts well they are slowly starting to work with me
Tech Elite
iTrader: (14)
Anyway, whatever floats your boat. Just ditch the alloy parts
Paul
Tech Rookie
I just bought a cyclone s rtr a couple of months ago. this is my first touring car. I am running in a class where we run sidewinder 4600 and lipos 7.4v 5000mAh packs. my interal is 2.4375 and i run a 42 pinon and 96 tooth 64 pitch. We are racing on a tri-oval. What I wonder is what spur and pinion combinations are you all running. wide open people are pulling away from me. any info would be appriciated.
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
How hot is the motor getting, if its not getting that hot then you'll have to try and push some more power out of it.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (20)
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: MEMBER OF THE "MWC" Mimi Wong Clan
Posts: 2,442
Trader Rating: 20 (100%+)
i have ran the Xray components on the front of my TC and didnt need to ream out the hingepins.. after tightening the setscrew, it takes the slop out anyways. dont overtighten, not needed.. as for other parts, on my modified cylone, i am running the xray axles and dogbones.. drops right in.. only for the older ones, because the dogbone pins are different size on the outdrives. the TC bones have a bigger size pin at the dogbones.
you can use those parts, im pretty sure the rear hubs drop right in also..
xray caster blocks need also the xray top and bottom bushing components to match the steering knuckles..
you can use those parts, im pretty sure the rear hubs drop right in also..
xray caster blocks need also the xray top and bottom bushing components to match the steering knuckles..
Tech Elite
iTrader: (152)
This might happen fast here, but I posted in the WTB thread that I need a set of shocks and a diff. Trying to get my car set up for the GT class and I'm looking for a set of used shocks and a diff. Shocks that came with my car a crap and the diff was junk, don't have the $$ to buy new stuff right now. Anyone have some spares they would sell?
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (6)
I just bought a cyclone s rtr a couple of months ago. this is my first touring car. I am running in a class where we run sidewinder 4600 and lipos 7.4v 5000mAh packs. my interal is 2.4375 and i run a 42 pinon and 96 tooth 64 pitch. We are racing on a tri-oval. What I wonder is what spur and pinion combinations are you all running. wide open people are pulling away from me. any info would be appriciated.
Also, whatever the quick guys run for gearing, start a tooth or two lower, check your temperature and work your way up from there if the motor is running cool. I gave my FDR out to someone with 'ham-hands' and they cooked their motor in 5 minutes.
The other thing you'll get with a quicker motor (brushed) is more maintenance. With agressive brushes you'll be rebuilding it every two runs. With less agressive brushes you may get a few runs.
That's the beauty of a brushless system... no maintenance.
He is looking for something used at a lower price.
But if you do end up having to buy a new diff. Be sure to get the Pro-Spec diff. It will save you a lot of headache.
You say the old diff was junk. Perhaps just replacing the rings and balls would revive that old craptastic diff. That would help save some money.
But if you do end up having to buy a new diff. Be sure to get the Pro-Spec diff. It will save you a lot of headache.
You say the old diff was junk. Perhaps just replacing the rings and balls would revive that old craptastic diff. That would help save some money.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (13)
I know this probably isn't 100% ok, but I figured I'd give you guys a shot at this as well since you're all cool . I'm selling some Much More Racing stuff like a CTX-D2, Marc Reinhard Cell Master, Black Battery Heatsink, and Black Battery Warmer. Here's a link, just send me a PM.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/5435899-post4496.html
Thanks guys. The starving college student needs to eat LMAO.
-Korey
http://www.rctech.net/forum/5435899-post4496.html
Thanks guys. The starving college student needs to eat LMAO.
-Korey
Tech Elite
iTrader: (152)
He is looking for something used at a lower price.
But if you do end up having to buy a new diff. Be sure to get the Pro-Spec diff. It will save you a lot of headache.
You say the old diff was junk. Perhaps just replacing the rings and balls would revive that old craptastic diff. That would help save some money.
But if you do end up having to buy a new diff. Be sure to get the Pro-Spec diff. It will save you a lot of headache.
You say the old diff was junk. Perhaps just replacing the rings and balls would revive that old craptastic diff. That would help save some money.
Yeah the diff is done, the holes in the gear for the diff balls are all wollow'd out, outdrives are done, about the only good thing are the rings (I got screwed on a trade for this car ). But, yeah if I do buy something new it will be the Pro-Spec. I still can't find someone that has a complete set of shocks, speedtech has one pair in stock
Try calling Billy at Speedworld in CA. He's got a lot of HB parts IN STOCK.
916-783-8864 or email - [email protected]
Tech Elite
iTrader: (152)
Sorry to hear about your trade. Sometimes trades work out great and sometimes.......well you know.
Try calling Billy at Speedworld in CA. He's got a lot of HB parts IN STOCK.
916-783-8864 or email - [email protected]
Try calling Billy at Speedworld in CA. He's got a lot of HB parts IN STOCK.
916-783-8864 or email - [email protected]