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Old 02-18-2009, 06:26 PM
  #15331  
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The 2 & 6 degree hubs are also useful for maintaining ~4 degrees caster when running kick-up or anti-dive.
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Old 02-18-2009, 07:41 PM
  #15332  
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yes I have noticed, I love the 6deg on the sweeper early in the day.
I also still would like to know if anyone has run other parts other than cyclone parts for "in a pinch" there has to be some of you out there in the same position that have used other parts I.E. tamiya C-hubs xray steering blocks etc etc..I usually will have the part I need on hand but would love to know since my track does not carry my car parts well they are slowly starting to work with me
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Old 02-18-2009, 07:44 PM
  #15333  
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Originally Posted by Tulsa TC3
yes I have noticed, I love the 6deg on the sweeper early in the day.
I also still would like to know if anyone has run other parts other than cyclone parts for "in a pinch" there has to be some of you out there in the same position that have used other parts I.E. tamiya C-hubs xray steering blocks etc etc..I usually will have the part I need on hand but would love to know since my track does not carry my car parts well they are slowly starting to work with me
ive ran xray steering blocks on my cyclone before, you can use the c-hubs if you ream out the arm for a 3mm c-hub pin.. i actually did that to one of my foam cars since i was snaping the graphite 6deg blocks brushing a board
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Old 02-19-2009, 02:07 AM
  #15334  
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Originally Posted by ShaunMac
The 2 & 6 degree hubs are also useful for maintaining ~4 degrees caster when running kick-up or anti-dive.
true, didn't think about that one... then again most "standard" setups play on front roll center height (ie with parallel blocks) rather than pro/anti-dive to control the front grip off throttle....

Anyway, whatever floats your boat. Just ditch the alloy parts

Paul
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Old 02-19-2009, 04:44 AM
  #15335  
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I just bought a cyclone s rtr a couple of months ago. this is my first touring car. I am running in a class where we run sidewinder 4600 and lipos 7.4v 5000mAh packs. my interal is 2.4375 and i run a 42 pinon and 96 tooth 64 pitch. We are racing on a tri-oval. What I wonder is what spur and pinion combinations are you all running. wide open people are pulling away from me. any info would be appriciated.
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Old 02-19-2009, 04:52 AM
  #15336  
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How hot is the motor getting, if its not getting that hot then you'll have to try and push some more power out of it.
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Old 02-19-2009, 06:42 AM
  #15337  
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i have ran the Xray components on the front of my TC and didnt need to ream out the hingepins.. after tightening the setscrew, it takes the slop out anyways. dont overtighten, not needed.. as for other parts, on my modified cylone, i am running the xray axles and dogbones.. drops right in.. only for the older ones, because the dogbone pins are different size on the outdrives. the TC bones have a bigger size pin at the dogbones.

you can use those parts, im pretty sure the rear hubs drop right in also..

xray caster blocks need also the xray top and bottom bushing components to match the steering knuckles..
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Old 02-19-2009, 07:34 AM
  #15338  
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Originally Posted by grapejuice
This might happen fast here, but I posted in the WTB thread that I need a set of shocks and a diff. Trying to get my car set up for the GT class and I'm looking for a set of used shocks and a diff. Shocks that came with my car a crap and the diff was junk, don't have the $$ to buy new stuff right now. Anyone have some spares they would sell?
Anyone got an extra set of shocks or a diff???????
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Old 02-19-2009, 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by bradwant2gofast
I just bought a cyclone s rtr a couple of months ago. this is my first touring car. I am running in a class where we run sidewinder 4600 and lipos 7.4v 5000mAh packs. my interal is 2.4375 and i run a 42 pinon and 96 tooth 64 pitch. We are racing on a tri-oval. What I wonder is what spur and pinion combinations are you all running. wide open people are pulling away from me. any info would be appriciated.
You should be getting enough power with 4600 NiMHs and 5000 lipos, if they're in good shape. Are you running the included closed end-bell 27turn motor? The power package in most RTRs is great to get you started, and usually low maintenance, but it won't be as competitive as aftermarket stock motors out there. Check to see what the quicker guys are running at the track, and also where they gear them at. Stock motors have different powerbands (either torque based or RPM based) and to get them to run properly they'll need anywhere from 7.5 to 3.5 FDR (Final Drive Ratio).

Also, whatever the quick guys run for gearing, start a tooth or two lower, check your temperature and work your way up from there if the motor is running cool. I gave my FDR out to someone with 'ham-hands' and they cooked their motor in 5 minutes.
The other thing you'll get with a quicker motor (brushed) is more maintenance. With agressive brushes you'll be rebuilding it every two runs. With less agressive brushes you may get a few runs.
That's the beauty of a brushless system... no maintenance.
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Old 02-19-2009, 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by grapejuice
Anyone got an extra set of shocks or a diff???????
Diff instock !
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Old 02-19-2009, 09:56 AM
  #15341  
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Originally Posted by RC MARKET
Diff instock !
He is looking for something used at a lower price.

But if you do end up having to buy a new diff. Be sure to get the Pro-Spec diff. It will save you a lot of headache.

You say the old diff was junk. Perhaps just replacing the rings and balls would revive that old craptastic diff. That would help save some money.
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Old 02-19-2009, 11:01 AM
  #15342  
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I know this probably isn't 100% ok, but I figured I'd give you guys a shot at this as well since you're all cool . I'm selling some Much More Racing stuff like a CTX-D2, Marc Reinhard Cell Master, Black Battery Heatsink, and Black Battery Warmer. Here's a link, just send me a PM.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/5435899-post4496.html

Thanks guys. The starving college student needs to eat LMAO.

-Korey
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Old 02-19-2009, 11:22 AM
  #15343  
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Originally Posted by ShaunMac
He is looking for something used at a lower price.

But if you do end up having to buy a new diff. Be sure to get the Pro-Spec diff. It will save you a lot of headache.

You say the old diff was junk. Perhaps just replacing the rings and balls would revive that old craptastic diff. That would help save some money.
Yeah the diff is done, the holes in the gear for the diff balls are all wollow'd out, outdrives are done, about the only good thing are the rings (I got screwed on a trade for this car ). But, yeah if I do buy something new it will be the Pro-Spec. I still can't find someone that has a complete set of shocks, speedtech has one pair in stock
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Old 02-19-2009, 11:46 AM
  #15344  
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Originally Posted by grapejuice
Yeah the diff is done, the holes in the gear for the diff balls are all wollow'd out, outdrives are done, about the only good thing are the rings (I got screwed on a trade for this car ). But, yeah if I do buy something new it will be the Pro-Spec. I still can't find someone that has a complete set of shocks, speedtech has one pair in stock
Sorry to hear about your trade. Sometimes trades work out great and sometimes.......well you know.

Try calling Billy at Speedworld in CA. He's got a lot of HB parts IN STOCK.

916-783-8864 or email - [email protected]
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Old 02-19-2009, 12:11 PM
  #15345  
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Originally Posted by ShaunMac
Sorry to hear about your trade. Sometimes trades work out great and sometimes.......well you know.

Try calling Billy at Speedworld in CA. He's got a lot of HB parts IN STOCK.

916-783-8864 or email - [email protected]
Thanks, just sent him an email!
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