deanomgwhiteguy

ok well if u have ure cyclone tc on table or on the road
and u move the wheels just a little bit without actualy turning the servo(with ure hand) my wheels move ALOT and when im going flat out driving it my front wheels just go crazy i bought a new hi-tec servo today and wacked it in and there is less play in the wheels but u can still move them alot im not sure if its those things that go over those ballish screws they seem to be loose abit can i fix that?

deanomgwhiteguy

oh nvm guys i found my proboblem

in my drive shaft the grub screw that keeps the pin in place wasnt tite enough and the pin came out abit but all problems solved

just gota get it going straight now

RockyMania

iTrader: (17)

hi there, a quick question if you guys could help me out. i hav problems with the MIP UJ vibrating when u fully steer ur car while throttle (like jamming sound). I hav made many attempts and also changing to a brand new MIP UJ set but doesnt seems solving the prob. Ideally, i saw xray coming out with their new UJ set for T09 which Hudy proclaimed to solve vibrations during full steering. Any idea to solve this in the cyclone? cheers!

Tulsa TC3

steering throw is set to far, someone told me to even the knuckles with the blocks, its not really a biggie. You can also try adjusting the rate in your transitter

Tulsa TC3

I would like to hear the feedback about the new pro spec diff from the new TC. Is anyone using it in the other models?

rc pete

iTrader: (6)

I ran it in my WCE before I got the TC. The pro diff bolts right in, is way smoother and you get much longer between rebuilds. I've run a 1/2 dozen different touring chassies in the past and this diff is the best I've seen yet.

For stock and superstock racing, the derlin outdrives work great. If you want to put the load of a mod to the diff, consider getting the alum outdrives.

Tulsa TC3

I am currently running the aluminum outdrives and was wondering about the cvd's my WEC has in front. My car came with a buuuuuuunch of parts and every little that I have seen on the market, well minus front stearing blocks. Which set is going to be the best to run. The purple one that came with the wordls kit or the black options you can buy from HB. Next questionmore or less a bling question. I have the purple countersinks and want to run the on the top plate will it affect anything if I run them there?

thanks-

rc pete

iTrader: (6)

Hang onto the WCE CVD's. According to the pics from the worlds, Hara runs them up front, with the standard TC universals in the back. I find the TC universals to be very smooth even at sharp turning angles, but haven't done any back-to-back testing with the WCE CVD's yet to see if there's any difference.

Regarding the top rear plate, the heat sink version is the stiffest, then the graphite on the WCE, then the FRP on the TC. Most racers run either the graphite or the FRP... some also cut it in half for even more flex and more rear traction, mostly for asphalt. Andy Moore even cut his for carpet racing at the IIC. If you run the bling heat sink, you'll be giving up some rear bite.

RC MARKET

iTrader: (12)

Hi-LowBlow

iTrader: (1)

Actually the WCE CVD's make a little bit more play in between the axle bearings and the axle because the WCE CVD axles have slightly smaller diameter than the standard TC universals while the standard universals are almost perfect fitting. At the world, Hara used the WCE CVD's up front since "the play" kills the chattering a little bit. Nobody wants to have any play in the rear so the standard universals are commonly used most of the time.

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

Anyone try the TC chassis and top deck with the previous cars?

EJ20

I belive the diff came w/ Cyclone TC is not ceramic ball. (correct me if wrong). If you buy the Pro spec diff package itself, it cames w/ ceramic ball. So I have the one w/ ceramic ball is way way better than original diff from Hara Ver. I break in the diff by hand for about 30 minutes and I haven't need to rebuild since August. (about 30 races) The next thing I notice the bearing holder need to shim little more on the alum. one than the plastic one from Cyclone S, so I bought the plastic bearing holder and it's fit better. (The bearing holder in the package have 2 different sizes, you need to use the thicker one)

BSmotorsports

Got my Cyclone S RTR going to need a faster engine before I start racing

Tulsa TC3

I have the carbon rear plate as well as the "bling" heatsink. I have never run the purple. What part did Andy cut, if you said he cut it in half do you mean litterally cut in half and had 2 seperate peices. Have you guys ever talked to any of the HB drivers on this forum? what is it like running the one way center bearing?

trickd122

iTrader: (3)

Diff building tips anyone and how do I break in the diff?