Hot Bodies Cyclone
guys i went to run my car today and it was great but only one probleme that i had for awhile , my probleme is that when i go in high speed chicanes my rear end seems to loos traction , it goes left ,right left right and then i loose control of my car and to avoid this i have to slow down but by slowing down i loose time so is there something to do to avoid my rear end to be like a fish tail.
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance
Tech Adept
Hey there
I drove app. 15 times on my TC and notice at original front driveshafts are getting worn. I made some searc and found steel ones how are perfect for Cyclone TC. I wonder why Hotbodies katalog didn`t know that at #61043 44mm HD universal shats fit perfectly?
So, now i know that and i think at they last longer than alu ones especially when use spool..
Just notice that guys
I drove app. 15 times on my TC and notice at original front driveshafts are getting worn. I made some searc and found steel ones how are perfect for Cyclone TC. I wonder why Hotbodies katalog didn`t know that at #61043 44mm HD universal shats fit perfectly?
So, now i know that and i think at they last longer than alu ones especially when use spool..
Just notice that guys
Tech Champion
iTrader: (13)
Cruisaaja - The driveshafts will work... just not as well. If you have the same ones I'm thinking of those are slightly different than the ones included in the kit. Take a look at the "slot" on the driveshaft where it connects to the universal joint coupling. From what I found on mine, the slot isn't quite as long as the driveshafts included in the kit.
This will make them bind up easier when put at more extreme angles. They will work, just won't be quite as smooth at high angles. So I guess it's a matter if you want a more durable part vs. a better performing part with the sacrifice of some performance.
Hope that helps a bit.
-Korey
This will make them bind up easier when put at more extreme angles. They will work, just won't be quite as smooth at high angles. So I guess it's a matter if you want a more durable part vs. a better performing part with the sacrifice of some performance.
Hope that helps a bit.
-Korey
Tech Master
iTrader: (19)
Wouldn't 61398 fit better?
Tech Adept
Cruisaaja - The driveshafts will work... just not as well. If you have the same ones I'm thinking of those are slightly different than the ones included in the kit. Take a look at the "slot" on the driveshaft where it connects to the universal joint coupling. From what I found on mine, the slot isn't quite as long as the driveshafts included in the kit.
This will make them bind up easier when put at more extreme angles. They will work, just won't be quite as smooth at high angles. So I guess it's a matter if you want a more durable part vs. a better performing part with the sacrifice of some performance.
Hope that helps a bit.
-Korey
This will make them bind up easier when put at more extreme angles. They will work, just won't be quite as smooth at high angles. So I guess it's a matter if you want a more durable part vs. a better performing part with the sacrifice of some performance.
Hope that helps a bit.
-Korey
I`ll check that before next time
I just looking for more durable driveshafts up front with spool
guys i went to run my car today and it was great but only one probleme that i had for awhile , my probleme is that when i go in high speed chicanes my rear end seems to loose traction , it goes left ,right left right and then i loose control of my car and to avoid this i have to slow down but by slowing down i loose time so is there something to do to avoid my rear end to be like a fish tail.
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance
Tech Champion
iTrader: (13)
You can try going down to a softer spring to create a little more rear grip. I've been testing something the last few times I was at the track though...
In high speed corners where you turn one direction, then turn the other way a number of times, it really jacks weight around the car. Sometimes our cars aren't setup to come back to center (not rolled over) quite as fast as we like. When all the weight is transferred to one side and it doesn't spring back, or "transition" quick enough, the car can get unstable and spin out a little erratically.
So to solve this, you can try going to a little thicker swaybars. I know it sounds weird, but usually when I put thicker swaybars all around on my car is made the car turn in a little harder, but actually made the car more stable throughout the corner at the same time.
So, try going softer on the rear spring and see if that helps. If it doesn't, then go back to what you had before and try thicker swaybars all around. It'll help settle the weight transfer down a bit.
Also check your tires. I notice when my tires are getting a little worn out my car will do some weird things like you describe. If you continue to have problems, post your setup and we can take a look at it again.
-Korey
In high speed corners where you turn one direction, then turn the other way a number of times, it really jacks weight around the car. Sometimes our cars aren't setup to come back to center (not rolled over) quite as fast as we like. When all the weight is transferred to one side and it doesn't spring back, or "transition" quick enough, the car can get unstable and spin out a little erratically.
So to solve this, you can try going to a little thicker swaybars. I know it sounds weird, but usually when I put thicker swaybars all around on my car is made the car turn in a little harder, but actually made the car more stable throughout the corner at the same time.
So, try going softer on the rear spring and see if that helps. If it doesn't, then go back to what you had before and try thicker swaybars all around. It'll help settle the weight transfer down a bit.
Also check your tires. I notice when my tires are getting a little worn out my car will do some weird things like you describe. If you continue to have problems, post your setup and we can take a look at it again.
-Korey
You can try going down to a softer spring to create a little more rear grip. I've been testing something the last few times I was at the track though...
In high speed corners where you turn one direction, then turn the other way a number of times, it really jacks weight around the car. Sometimes our cars aren't setup to come back to center (not rolled over) quite as fast as we like. When all the weight is transferred to one side and it doesn't spring back, or "transition" quick enough, the car can get unstable and spin out a little erratically.
So to solve this, you can try going to a little thicker swaybars. I know it sounds weird, but usually when I put thicker swaybars all around on my car is made the car turn in a little harder, but actually made the car more stable throughout the corner at the same time.
So, try going softer on the rear spring and see if that helps. If it doesn't, then go back to what you had before and try thicker swaybars all around. It'll help settle the weight transfer down a bit.
Also check your tires. I notice when my tires are getting a little worn out my car will do some weird things like you describe. If you continue to have problems, post your setup and we can take a look at it again.
-Korey
In high speed corners where you turn one direction, then turn the other way a number of times, it really jacks weight around the car. Sometimes our cars aren't setup to come back to center (not rolled over) quite as fast as we like. When all the weight is transferred to one side and it doesn't spring back, or "transition" quick enough, the car can get unstable and spin out a little erratically.
So to solve this, you can try going to a little thicker swaybars. I know it sounds weird, but usually when I put thicker swaybars all around on my car is made the car turn in a little harder, but actually made the car more stable throughout the corner at the same time.
So, try going softer on the rear spring and see if that helps. If it doesn't, then go back to what you had before and try thicker swaybars all around. It'll help settle the weight transfer down a bit.
Also check your tires. I notice when my tires are getting a little worn out my car will do some weird things like you describe. If you continue to have problems, post your setup and we can take a look at it again.
-Korey
Tech Adept
Hey Korey
I just measured those driveshafts side by side and they are exatcly same calibers
One thing came my mind. If i buy option # 61086 spool set for my TC, can i use #67731 plastic axle cups for that?
Those may better for driveshafts like my Tamiya 415 Mre use.
I just measured those driveshafts side by side and they are exatcly same calibers
One thing came my mind. If i buy option # 61086 spool set for my TC, can i use #67731 plastic axle cups for that?
Those may better for driveshafts like my Tamiya 415 Mre use.
You can try going down to a softer spring to create a little more rear grip. I've been testing something the last few times I was at the track though...
In high speed corners where you turn one direction, then turn the other way a number of times, it really jacks weight around the car. Sometimes our cars aren't setup to come back to center (not rolled over) quite as fast as we like. When all the weight is transferred to one side and it doesn't spring back, or "transition" quick enough, the car can get unstable and spin out a little erratically.
So to solve this, you can try going to a little thicker swaybars. I know it sounds weird, but usually when I put thicker swaybars all around on my car is made the car turn in a little harder, but actually made the car more stable throughout the corner at the same time.
So, try going softer on the rear spring and see if that helps. If it doesn't, then go back to what you had before and try thicker swaybars all around. It'll help settle the weight transfer down a bit.
Also check your tires. I notice when my tires are getting a little worn out my car will do some weird things like you describe. If you continue to have problems, post your setup and we can take a look at it again.
-Korey
In high speed corners where you turn one direction, then turn the other way a number of times, it really jacks weight around the car. Sometimes our cars aren't setup to come back to center (not rolled over) quite as fast as we like. When all the weight is transferred to one side and it doesn't spring back, or "transition" quick enough, the car can get unstable and spin out a little erratically.
So to solve this, you can try going to a little thicker swaybars. I know it sounds weird, but usually when I put thicker swaybars all around on my car is made the car turn in a little harder, but actually made the car more stable throughout the corner at the same time.
So, try going softer on the rear spring and see if that helps. If it doesn't, then go back to what you had before and try thicker swaybars all around. It'll help settle the weight transfer down a bit.
Also check your tires. I notice when my tires are getting a little worn out my car will do some weird things like you describe. If you continue to have problems, post your setup and we can take a look at it again.
-Korey
When you say thicker sway bar , do you mean rear only or front and rear because im already running medium sway bar front and soft sway bar rear.
Is it possible to lower roll center instead of putting thicker sway bar , for the moment im running 2mm front and 2mm rear as roll center between the upper bulkhead and inner pivotmount , should i change to 2mm front and 1.5 mm rear or is it better to keep roll center as it is and put thicker sway bar.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (13)
Cruisaaja- Awesome! I'd run them them There are so many different versions of the driveshaft components, even I get confused with them sometimes.
Cyclone Speed and bmmer701- Laying down the shocks does "soften" the back end of the car, but it also changes how progressive the suspension is. It will also slow the overall transition from left to right that Cyclone Speed was referring too. It is worth a try though. Sometimes what I do if I'm not sure what will make the car better, I will change something. If that made if better, then I will continue to adjust that setting in that direction. If it made it worse, I go the opposite direction (ie, laying down shock, then if it made it better, lay it down more. If it didn't, then stand them up)
This is a good practice to do sometimes. Different track conditions can make certain changes of the car do the opposite of what you might expect. I can never give you an exact representation of what something will do, because it largely depends on how much grip the track has, and even driving style to a certain extent.
The roll center... That could be the problem. At my home track I always noticed my car felt a little weird with 2mm of shims under all the toe/pivot blocks. When I went to 1.5mm all around the car was a totally different animal. When we have so many shims under those blocks it makes the car turn in nice and crisp, but it bleeds too much grip off in the middle of the corner. So it could give you that feel of "washing out" or "really loose". When you but fewer shims under there, it actually makes the car generate more mechanical grip, especially in the middle of the corner .
Hopefully that all made sense guys.
-Korey
Cyclone Speed and bmmer701- Laying down the shocks does "soften" the back end of the car, but it also changes how progressive the suspension is. It will also slow the overall transition from left to right that Cyclone Speed was referring too. It is worth a try though. Sometimes what I do if I'm not sure what will make the car better, I will change something. If that made if better, then I will continue to adjust that setting in that direction. If it made it worse, I go the opposite direction (ie, laying down shock, then if it made it better, lay it down more. If it didn't, then stand them up)
This is a good practice to do sometimes. Different track conditions can make certain changes of the car do the opposite of what you might expect. I can never give you an exact representation of what something will do, because it largely depends on how much grip the track has, and even driving style to a certain extent.
The roll center... That could be the problem. At my home track I always noticed my car felt a little weird with 2mm of shims under all the toe/pivot blocks. When I went to 1.5mm all around the car was a totally different animal. When we have so many shims under those blocks it makes the car turn in nice and crisp, but it bleeds too much grip off in the middle of the corner. So it could give you that feel of "washing out" or "really loose". When you but fewer shims under there, it actually makes the car generate more mechanical grip, especially in the middle of the corner .
Hopefully that all made sense guys.
-Korey
Tech Champion
iTrader: (13)
Oh, the swaybars! Just go one bar thicker all around. I tested this when the grip was REALLY high though. What would happen the car would roll so much, that it would dump over too much. So when I needed to transition to the opposite direction it would make the car really weird an unstable.
Try the roll center changes and the spring/shock change on the back first though. I'm pretty sure those will be more noticable change than the swaybar, especially if your track is low grip.
-Korey
Try the roll center changes and the spring/shock change on the back first though. I'm pretty sure those will be more noticable change than the swaybar, especially if your track is low grip.
-Korey
Cruisaaja- Awesome! I'd run them them There are so many different versions of the driveshaft components, even I get confused with them sometimes.
Cyclone Speed and bmmer701- Laying down the shocks does "soften" the back end of the car, but it also changes how progressive the suspension is. It will also slow the overall transition from left to right that Cyclone Speed was referring too. It is worth a try though. Sometimes what I do if I'm not sure what will make the car better, I will change something. If that made if better, then I will continue to adjust that setting in that direction. If it made it worse, I go the opposite direction (ie, laying down shock, then if it made it better, lay it down more. If it didn't, then stand them up)
This is a good practice to do sometimes. Different track conditions can make certain changes of the car do the opposite of what you might expect. I can never give you an exact representation of what something will do, because it largely depends on how much grip the track has, and even driving style to a certain extent.
The roll center... That could be the problem. At my home track I always noticed my car felt a little weird with 2mm of shims under all the toe/pivot blocks. When I went to 1.5mm all around the car was a totally different animal. When we have so many shims under those blocks it makes the car turn in nice and crisp, but it bleeds too much grip off in the middle of the corner. So it could give you that feel of "washing out" or "really loose". When you but fewer shims under there, it actually makes the car generate more mechanical grip, especially in the middle of the corner .
Hopefully that all made sense guys.
-Korey
Cyclone Speed and bmmer701- Laying down the shocks does "soften" the back end of the car, but it also changes how progressive the suspension is. It will also slow the overall transition from left to right that Cyclone Speed was referring too. It is worth a try though. Sometimes what I do if I'm not sure what will make the car better, I will change something. If that made if better, then I will continue to adjust that setting in that direction. If it made it worse, I go the opposite direction (ie, laying down shock, then if it made it better, lay it down more. If it didn't, then stand them up)
This is a good practice to do sometimes. Different track conditions can make certain changes of the car do the opposite of what you might expect. I can never give you an exact representation of what something will do, because it largely depends on how much grip the track has, and even driving style to a certain extent.
The roll center... That could be the problem. At my home track I always noticed my car felt a little weird with 2mm of shims under all the toe/pivot blocks. When I went to 1.5mm all around the car was a totally different animal. When we have so many shims under those blocks it makes the car turn in nice and crisp, but it bleeds too much grip off in the middle of the corner. So it could give you that feel of "washing out" or "really loose". When you but fewer shims under there, it actually makes the car generate more mechanical grip, especially in the middle of the corner .
Hopefully that all made sense guys.
-Korey
Oh, the swaybars! Just go one bar thicker all around. I tested this when the grip was REALLY high though. What would happen the car would roll so much, that it would dump over too much. So when I needed to transition to the opposite direction it would make the car really weird an unstable.
Try the roll center changes and the spring/shock change on the back first though. I'm pretty sure those will be more noticable change than the swaybar, especially if your track is low grip.
-Korey
Try the roll center changes and the spring/shock change on the back first though. I'm pretty sure those will be more noticable change than the swaybar, especially if your track is low grip.
-Korey
But i didnt really understand , should i move from 2mm roll center to 3mm or should i go from 2mm to 1.5mm roll center?
I got this question its abit off topic but i thought that the probleme might be because of the tyres, how do you set up your tyes before the race , i do like this : put some tyre additive leave it for 10 minutes then swipe it with an old t-shirt then put the tyre warmers on at 60deg celsius.Is this the right way , how do you do .
Because the probleme is naybee because of the tyres.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (138)
try removing all shims underneathe your pivot blocks, then try adding 1mm shims under the front blocks.
well i did try have this in the begining but i dint like really like it , when i talk about roll center i mean then number of mm between the upper bulkheads and the inner pivot , not the number of mm under the pivot blocks.