Hot Bodies Cyclone
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Thank you STLNLST
Thank you mangoman
We do run mod outdoors and 10.5 indoors, yes the belts do flip over unless they are very tight so if the tensioner will help we'll give it a try.
Thanks again for the help
We do run mod outdoors and 10.5 indoors, yes the belts do flip over unless they are very tight so if the tensioner will help we'll give it a try.
Thanks again for the help
Tech Elite
iTrader: (11)
No Worries....
My understanding is that a tight belt generates more friction however a loose belt and it will either slip/flip. Someone please correct me if im wrong....
I suspect running the belt too tight will also result in higher wear of the belt, while if the belt is slipping im sure that is also not good for the teeth on the belt.
My understanding is that a tight belt generates more friction however a loose belt and it will either slip/flip. Someone please correct me if im wrong....
I suspect running the belt too tight will also result in higher wear of the belt, while if the belt is slipping im sure that is also not good for the teeth on the belt.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
My 2c.
I run my front belt a with cam notch at the 11 o'clock position (if you are looking at the diff from the drivers side...cam notch pointing to 11 o'clock). This makes the belt somewhat loose and friction free.
My rear belt, however, is set with cam notch at the 3 o'clock, or almost full loose.
I haven't had any problems with the belts flipping over or skipping while running 17.5 or 10.5. If you're going to run mod, I would adjust the cams 2 notches tighter (front, I think, at 9 o'clock, rear at 12, or maybe even 11 o'clock). With the additional power you will skip them for sure.
I run my front belt a with cam notch at the 11 o'clock position (if you are looking at the diff from the drivers side...cam notch pointing to 11 o'clock). This makes the belt somewhat loose and friction free.
My rear belt, however, is set with cam notch at the 3 o'clock, or almost full loose.
I haven't had any problems with the belts flipping over or skipping while running 17.5 or 10.5. If you're going to run mod, I would adjust the cams 2 notches tighter (front, I think, at 9 o'clock, rear at 12, or maybe even 11 o'clock). With the additional power you will skip them for sure.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (32)
My 2c.
I run my front belt a with cam notch at the 11 o'clock position (if you are looking at the diff from the drivers side...cam notch pointing to 11 o'clock). This makes the belt somewhat loose and friction free.
My rear belt, however, is set with cam notch at the 3 o'clock, or almost full loose.
I haven't had any problems with the belts flipping over or skipping while running 17.5 or 10.5. If you're going to run mod, I would adjust the cams 2 notches tighter (front, I think, at 9 o'clock, rear at 12, or maybe even 11 o'clock). With the additional power you will skip them for sure.
I run my front belt a with cam notch at the 11 o'clock position (if you are looking at the diff from the drivers side...cam notch pointing to 11 o'clock). This makes the belt somewhat loose and friction free.
My rear belt, however, is set with cam notch at the 3 o'clock, or almost full loose.
I haven't had any problems with the belts flipping over or skipping while running 17.5 or 10.5. If you're going to run mod, I would adjust the cams 2 notches tighter (front, I think, at 9 o'clock, rear at 12, or maybe even 11 o'clock). With the additional power you will skip them for sure.
My 2c.
I run my front belt a with cam notch at the 11 o'clock position (if you are looking at the diff from the drivers side...cam notch pointing to 11 o'clock). This makes the belt somewhat loose and friction free.
My rear belt, however, is set with cam notch at the 3 o'clock, or almost full loose.
I haven't had any problems with the belts flipping over or skipping while running 17.5 or 10.5. If you're going to run mod, I would adjust the cams 2 notches tighter (front, I think, at 9 o'clock, rear at 12, or maybe even 11 o'clock). With the additional power you will skip them for sure.
I run my front belt a with cam notch at the 11 o'clock position (if you are looking at the diff from the drivers side...cam notch pointing to 11 o'clock). This makes the belt somewhat loose and friction free.
My rear belt, however, is set with cam notch at the 3 o'clock, or almost full loose.
I haven't had any problems with the belts flipping over or skipping while running 17.5 or 10.5. If you're going to run mod, I would adjust the cams 2 notches tighter (front, I think, at 9 o'clock, rear at 12, or maybe even 11 o'clock). With the additional power you will skip them for sure.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
If you look at the bearing holder (also called a cam), there is a notch in it so you can align the left and right together. Thus, a cam notch!
first 1/8 off road and already back at touringcars
can you say: "man on a mission"?
go hara!
source: http://y-trail.de-blog.jp/
can you say: "man on a mission"?
go hara!
source: http://y-trail.de-blog.jp/
oh ok but when you said from the driver side do you mean from the midle of the chassi and and you look outwards or you mean you look from the outside to the inside of the car.
Tech Master
iTrader: (11)
Where can I buy the Cyclone TC for $379 that is in stock?
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
first 1/8 off road and already back at touringcars
can you say: "man on a mission"?
go hara!
source: http://y-trail.de-blog.jp/
can you say: "man on a mission"?
go hara!
source: http://y-trail.de-blog.jp/
Tech Elite
iTrader: (11)
So where do i get a spray bomb from and what's its projected coverage range!
Tech Elite
iTrader: (28)
given a 6cell setup, i am now switching over to lipo in my cyclone with 17.5 What i want to know is what necessary as far as tuning/setup changes when going from NIMH to LIPO? The car was already balanced with weights with the nimh setup so i figure with lipo i need to re-balance it...anything else?