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Old 01-06-2009, 05:19 PM   #14956
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Default driveshafts for spool?

Which driveshaft holds up best when using a spool? I currently have my choice of the MIP aluminum or the 3racing driveshafts but I want to get the ones that are the most durable. I know the 3racing ones have a bad reputation but I've just used them for a day of racing and they're fine (luckily no major crashes yesterday)
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Old 01-06-2009, 09:04 PM   #14957
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Which driveshaft holds up best when using a spool? I currently have my choice of the MIP aluminum or the 3racing driveshafts but I want to get the ones that are the most durable. I know the 3racing ones have a bad reputation but I've just used them for a day of racing and they're fine (luckily no major crashes yesterday)
I had the 3 racing caster blocks on my Cyclone and they did not last through one light crash with out bending so they get no more of my money
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Old 01-06-2009, 09:08 PM   #14958
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I got my TC dialed! however I need more rip I am being motored!
Has anyone here had any experience with the Hacker 10.5 I am considering purchasing one.
I've got a Hacker 17.5 and it's great and compares equal to my Novak.
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Old 01-07-2009, 12:51 AM   #14959
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Originally Posted by RC MARKET View Post
OK, then #61398 match 61043, isn'it?
Thanks!

But do they fit too the ver.3 spool(#61086) with these drive shafts?
Then, could somebody tell me why the HB shocks haven't hardware made by teflon, like shock pistons, why not like Tamiya is doing?

Best regards
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Old 01-07-2009, 02:26 AM   #14960
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Hi guys

more prospec ball diff questions.

after exhausting most of my supply of standard diff (3/32 balls) I decided to jump on the bandwagon and placed my first order to rcmarket (good service btw).

I built the diff this weekend, I put the metal outdrives on straight away.

Now - is there a common mistake that people tend to do when building this baby? because in order to prevent it from slipping, I have to tighten it to unacceptable levels... Someone help me save a few minutes tonite as I'll pull it apart, degrease and reassemble (and yes I saw the post on page 497) and tell me straight away what I did wrong

Couple of more q's re that diff if I may

1- on the previous thrust bearing, hara's advice was to only use 7 balls... you guys all use 8 now with the 3mm inside diameter?
2- do you grease the main balls, or do you drop little dabs of grease in the spur holes and then drop the balls in?
3- the little HB pots of grease - are they as good as the legendary AE silicone and graphite grease, supposedly the best in the business, ever, which I'm beginning to get short of, and was thinking of reordering?
4- Q2 on the HB greases - wouldn't the grey one be exactly the same thing as Tamiya's AWG? it feels very similar...

Thanks for the advice all
Paul
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Old 01-07-2009, 06:08 AM   #14961
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Originally Posted by Lonestar View Post
Now - is there a common mistake that people tend to do when building this baby? because in order to prevent it from slipping, I have to tighten it to unacceptable levels...
well perhaps you did the same as I first did when I got the new diff and built it without looking at the instructions...
and that is build it the sameway as the old one, where the bolt, thrust bearing and spring were put in one side of the diff and the plastic nut was inserted in the other side
actually if you look at the instructions of the new diff the bolt and thrust washer go in one end and the plastic nut and spring go in the other that made it a lot easier for me to tighten the diff
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Old 01-08-2009, 12:10 AM   #14962
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well perhaps you did the same as I first did when I got the new diff and built it without looking at the instructions...
and that is build it the sameway as the old one, where the bolt, thrust bearing and spring were put in one side of the diff and the plastic nut was inserted in the other side
actually if you look at the instructions of the new diff the bolt and thrust washer go in one end and the plastic nut and spring go in the other that made it a lot easier for me to tighten the diff

Tom

I have to admit you made me nervous, but no, I dissassembled the whole thing yesterday and it was assembled properly.

I degreased all the way down to the last thrust ball, reassembled with AE black grease and stealth lube... it still was slipping a bit too much for my taste, but it's much better now it's broken it. Saturday is raceday, we'll see how it becomes after a couple of packs.

A couple of things are still making me nervous
1- I used the alloy outdrives. Where the "flat" is machined to lock the diff ring, there is a little "lip" which still shows where the old "circle" used to be (hope this is clear enough). I tried to sand it down to guarantee a flat surface for the ring to press on, but to no avail... This means the pressure won't be the same all around the rings, which means the rings will wear out at that very spot. this sucks.
2- when used "by hand" once mounted in the car, the diff feels ok (not xray ok, mind you, this is still miles away from my old car's (FK05) diff quality) when the right wheel is turned, but a bit gritty once you turn the left one...

Any perspective from our expert team drivers?

Thanks folks,

Paul
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Old 01-08-2009, 02:59 AM   #14963
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Originally Posted by Lonestar View Post
Tom

I have to admit you made me nervous, but no, I dissassembled the whole thing yesterday and it was assembled properly.

I degreased all the way down to the last thrust ball, reassembled with AE black grease and stealth lube... it still was slipping a bit too much for my taste, but it's much better now it's broken it. Saturday is raceday, we'll see how it becomes after a couple of packs.

A couple of things are still making me nervous
1- I used the alloy outdrives. Where the "flat" is machined to lock the diff ring, there is a little "lip" which still shows where the old "circle" used to be (hope this is clear enough). I tried to sand it down to guarantee a flat surface for the ring to press on, but to no avail... This means the pressure won't be the same all around the rings, which means the rings will wear out at that very spot. this sucks.
2- when used "by hand" once mounted in the car, the diff feels ok (not xray ok, mind you, this is still miles away from my old car's (FK05) diff quality) when the right wheel is turned, but a bit gritty once you turn the left one...

Any perspective from our expert team drivers?

Thanks folks,

Paul
From my previous experience, i've always found that the diff slips too much when too much grease is applied.

I normally empty all the diff balls into a plastic parts bag & stick a dollop of diff grease in there, mix it all around so the diff balls get nice and lubricated, then remove each ball with a hobby knife & place into the diff pulley.

With the thrust bearing, be sure to use lots of black grease.

Dont worry if it feels a bit notchy in your hands. Run a pack through it at the track & it should break in nicely. Make sure you check the tightness after the initial pack to make sure it isnt slipping.
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Old 01-08-2009, 05:29 AM   #14964
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Default DHI 2008 SETUP

HI,
please someone have or know where find set-up sheet from DHI race of 2008?
I need to set my car for carpet+Rubber tire & 5 cells.

Thank you
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Old 01-08-2009, 09:10 AM   #14965
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Hello all, I have a question about a tweeeeeeeek plate. How and what is the best way to use them its for the worlds edition
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Old 01-08-2009, 09:24 AM   #14966
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Originally Posted by mac853 View Post
OK, then #61398 match 61043, isn'it?
Thanks!

But do they fit too the ver.3 spool(#61086) with these drive shafts?
Then, could somebody tell me why the HB shocks haven't hardware made by teflon, like shock pistons, why not like Tamiya is doing?

Best regards
Ver. 2 for Ver. 3 Spool
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Old 01-08-2009, 09:26 AM   #14967
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Ver. 2 for Ver. 3 Spool
Ok, thanks!
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Old 01-08-2009, 09:53 AM   #14968
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Thats really odd Lonestar (I just laughed a little on the inside thinking of the movie Spaceballs). Anyway, the pro diff has been the easiest diff I've ever built. Usually I go through and sand diff rings to make sure they are flat, but I never even had to touch the diff rings on the pro diff.

Did you by any chance try to build it with the POM outdrives that are supplied with it to see if the problem persists??? It might be you had a funky aluminum outdrives, even though I don't know of any current problems with them. I use the aluminum ones personally for foam tire carpet racing. Don't be afraid to use the POM outdrives either. I thought that were amazing as far as durability goes. I had 60 battery packs on mine with next to no wear. I just have the aluminum ones because they look pretty cool haha.

Too much grease can be a problem as well. I tend to just add a tiny bit in each of the diff ball holes in the pulley then drop the balls right in. I personally use Corally diff grease right now, since I have 8 bazzillion of them from my previous ride with Corally. If I use associated diff grease I use the silicone diff grease (has red colored text on the tube instead of black), or my personal favorite is schumacher diff grease. PACK the thrust with associated black grease or tamiya anti-wear grease.

Also, another thing most people don't think about is when compressing the diff spring, you MUST make sure you do it squarely. 9 times out of 10, pliers won't do it perfect. If you have a small vice, compress the spring in a vice. It will make the spring much truer, and remove a lot of the tight/loose syndrome that some people get in their diffs.

Hopefully that gives you some food for thought!

-Korey
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Old 01-08-2009, 09:57 AM   #14969
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Originally Posted by Tulsa TC3 View Post
Hello all, I have a question about a tweeeeeeeek plate. How and what is the best way to use them its for the worlds edition
Tweak plate... Can you be more specific?

Are we talking about something like this???
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXRTZ9&P=7

Or this???
http://www.ppdbillet.com/hb_cyclone.html

The bottom one is really cool FYI. I have one and love it. Good way to make sure your chassis is completely flat before doing any suspension adjustments. Plus you don't have to have your buddy come over and press down on your shock towers while you tighten up top deck screws.

-Korey
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Old 01-08-2009, 10:09 AM   #14970
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that is the one that I have
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