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Old 12-30-2008, 11:09 PM   #14896
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Originally Posted by rc pete View Post
Hang onto the WCE CVD's. According to the pics from the worlds, Hara runs them up front, with the standard TC universals in the back. I find the TC universals to be very smooth even at sharp turning angles, but haven't done any back-to-back testing with the WCE CVD's yet to see if there's any difference.

Regarding the top rear plate, the heat sink version is the stiffest, then the graphite on the WCE, then the FRP on the TC. Most racers run either the graphite or the FRP... some also cut it in half for even more flex and more rear traction, mostly for asphalt. Andy Moore even cut his for carpet racing at the IIC. If you run the bling heat sink, you'll be giving up some rear bite.
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Old 12-31-2008, 09:17 AM   #14897
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Originally Posted by rc pete View Post
Hang onto the WCE CVD's. According to the pics from the worlds, Hara runs them up front, with the standard TC universals in the back. I find the TC universals to be very smooth even at sharp turning angles, but haven't done any back-to-back testing with the WCE CVD's yet to see if there's any difference.

Regarding the top rear plate, the heat sink version is the stiffest, then the graphite on the WCE, then the FRP on the TC. Most racers run either the graphite or the FRP... some also cut it in half for even more flex and more rear traction, mostly for asphalt. Andy Moore even cut his for carpet racing at the IIC. If you run the bling heat sink, you'll be giving up some rear bite.
Actually the WCE CVD's make a little bit more play in between the axle bearings and the axle because the WCE CVD axles have slightly smaller diameter than the standard TC universals while the standard universals are almost perfect fitting. At the world, Hara used the WCE CVD's up front since "the play" kills the chattering a little bit. Nobody wants to have any play in the rear so the standard universals are commonly used most of the time.
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Old 12-31-2008, 09:30 AM   #14898
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Anyone try the TC chassis and top deck with the previous cars?
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Old 12-31-2008, 12:25 PM   #14899
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Originally Posted by Tulsa TC3 View Post
I would like to hear the feedback about the new pro spec diff from the new TC. Is anyone using it in the other models?
I belive the diff came w/ Cyclone TC is not ceramic ball. (correct me if wrong). If you buy the Pro spec diff package itself, it cames w/ ceramic ball. So I have the one w/ ceramic ball is way way better than original diff from Hara Ver. I break in the diff by hand for about 30 minutes and I haven't need to rebuild since August. (about 30 races) The next thing I notice the bearing holder need to shim little more on the alum. one than the plastic one from Cyclone S, so I bought the plastic bearing holder and it's fit better. (The bearing holder in the package have 2 different sizes, you need to use the thicker one)
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Old 12-31-2008, 01:58 PM   #14900
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Got my Cyclone S RTR going to need a faster engine before I start racing
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Old 12-31-2008, 02:07 PM   #14901
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I have the carbon rear plate as well as the "bling" heatsink. I have never run the purple. What part did Andy cut, if you said he cut it in half do you mean litterally cut in half and had 2 seperate peices. Have you guys ever talked to any of the HB drivers on this forum? what is it like running the one way center bearing?
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Old 12-31-2008, 08:54 PM   #14902
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Diff building tips anyone and how do I break in the diff?
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Old 12-31-2008, 10:37 PM   #14903
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Originally Posted by trickd122 View Post
Diff building tips anyone and how do I break in the diff?
Here is my process that I follow...

Diff building tips:
1) Clean hands and have a nice clean flat surface to work on.

2) Sand the diff rings on both sides with 600 grit wet dry sand paper. (Figure eight pattern seems to be the best). Take your time here seems like the diff rings need lots of TLC to get them flat and even. I use an old diff half for this part or you will burn a hole in your finger (this from personal experience). Motor spray on the sandpaper and then start your figure eight pattern. Add motor spray as needed. Clean rings with motor spray once sanding is complete.

3) Clean the 3mm diff balls with motor spray and set a side for now.

4)Gather and clean eight thrust balls and the thrust washers. Put the first washer on the diff screw and put a good amount of black AE grease on the washer. Put all eight thrust balls in the grease and then put the other washer on top of the thrust balls. Insert into the small diff half. Set aside.

5)Install the washer, diff ring, spring, bearing, and t-nut into the large diff half. Coat the diff ring with a small amount of silicone grease and rub it in (the clear grease). Set aside.

6)Take the small diff half and install the bearing on top. Install the diff ring and coat with a small amount of silicone grease and rub it in. Install the pulley. Take the clean diff balls on a clean paper towel and squirt some silicone grease on them. rub in the grease so that all of the balls are coated. Insert each diff ball onto the pulley (I use a small tool to do this, they seem to stick pretty easily due to the grease).

7) Diff is now ready to assemble. Take each half and put them together and start to screw in the diff screw. Once it starts to catch tighten until the pulley can't still rotate while holding each diff half. Then back it off one full turn. The diff is now ready to break in.

8)Diff break-in...Turn on your car and put the right side tires (left side should be off the surface) on the bench and then very slowly pull the trigger. Let the tires spin for 15-20 seconds and then stop. Let the car cool off for a few minutes then do the other side. After the car cools again tighten the diff a half turn and then repeat. Repeat this process until the diff is just tight enough for your racing application.

Some added info:
Slight grooves in the diff rings are a good thing, but should not get too deep. Sanding the rings is a really important step that cannot get skipped every time you rebuild your diff.

Hope this helps!
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Old 01-01-2009, 03:13 AM   #14904
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Your also best to put a little threadlock on your diff screw as there is a possability of the dif loosening off
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Old 01-01-2009, 11:01 AM   #14905
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Quote:
Originally Posted by artwork View Post
Here is my process that I follow...

Diff building tips:
1) Clean hands and have a nice clean flat surface to work on.

2) Sand the diff rings on both sides with 600 grit wet dry sand paper. (Figure eight pattern seems to be the best). Take your time here seems like the diff rings need lots of TLC to get them flat and even. I use an old diff half for this part or you will burn a hole in your finger (this from personal experience). Motor spray on the sandpaper and then start your figure eight pattern. Add motor spray as needed. Clean rings with motor spray once sanding is complete.

3) Clean the 3mm diff balls with motor spray and set a side for now.

4)Gather and clean eight thrust balls and the thrust washers. Put the first washer on the diff screw and put a good amount of black AE grease on the washer. Put all eight thrust balls in the grease and then put the other washer on top of the thrust balls. Insert into the small diff half. Set aside.

5)Install the washer, diff ring, spring, bearing, and t-nut into the large diff half. Coat the diff ring with a small amount of silicone grease and rub it in (the clear grease). Set aside.

6)Take the small diff half and install the bearing on top. Install the diff ring and coat with a small amount of silicone grease and rub it in. Install the pulley. Take the clean diff balls on a clean paper towel and squirt some silicone grease on them. rub in the grease so that all of the balls are coated. Insert each diff ball onto the pulley (I use a small tool to do this, they seem to stick pretty easily due to the grease).

7) Diff is now ready to assemble. Take each half and put them together and start to screw in the diff screw. Once it starts to catch tighten until the pulley can't still rotate while holding each diff half. Then back it off one full turn. The diff is now ready to break in.

8)Diff break-in...Turn on your car and put the right side tires (left side should be off the surface) on the bench and then very slowly pull the trigger. Let the tires spin for 15-20 seconds and then stop. Let the car cool off for a few minutes then do the other side. After the car cools again tighten the diff a half turn and then repeat. Repeat this process until the diff is just tight enough for your racing application.

Some added info:
Slight grooves in the diff rings are a good thing, but should not get too deep. Sanding the rings is a really important step that cannot get skipped every time you rebuild your diff.

Hope this helps!

Thanks ..... I followed your directions and just built probably the smoothest diff I have ever built.
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Old 01-01-2009, 12:53 PM   #14906
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STLNLST View Post
Anyone try the TC chassis and top deck with the previous cars?
Hara had said in Hi Traction to use ,
if more hi traction use # 61283 chassis post ,
& more more hi traction chassis post o-ring change to use washer .
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Old 01-01-2009, 01:01 PM   #14907
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STLNLST View Post
Anyone try the TC chassis and top deck with the previous cars?
i used the TC top deck with chassis standoffs on my foam WCE with a purple shim rather than a black O ring. Very slick looking and very stiff.
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Old 01-01-2009, 08:47 PM   #14908
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Default what gearing to start out at the snowbirds with novak brushless

what a good fdr or spur/and pinion to start out with a brushless novak 17.5 turn motor thxs reggie
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Old 01-01-2009, 11:52 PM   #14909
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B18C Turbo View Post
i used the TC top deck with chassis standoffs on my foam WCE with a purple shim rather than a black O ring. Very slick looking and very stiff.

how do you use the standoff's with just the top deck and now that lower chassis???
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Old 01-02-2009, 11:23 AM   #14910
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Hey Clint,

If you use the tc upper deck, or the 2.5mm "solid" upper deck it has the little wings on the side for the posts. The chassis that have the holes for the posts are the chassis that comes in the tc kit, the 3.6mm solid chassis for foam tire carpet racing, and I believe the 5 cell chassis does as well. Pretty much anything with the plastic battery trays works with the posts.

I use them on my foam tire carpet setup, but I've honestly very rarely even thought about using them on asphalt or rubber tire racing in general. I have stiffened up the front and it seems to make it a little more responsive off center, but overall I get a little bit of a push from running the posts on the front of the car.

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