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Old 12-28-2008, 12:43 PM   #14881
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For 13.5 Rubber tire on carpet I like 1.5 or 2.5 if running a spool. I found that the 1.0 or 0 block doesn't have enough entry when running a spool.

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Old 12-28-2008, 04:42 PM   #14882
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I would say all depends on traction and driver. I personally like run spool w/ 1.5 degree FF block, but I will try 1 degree also next time.
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Old 12-28-2008, 07:37 PM   #14883
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Originally Posted by VooDooPH View Post
just wanted to ask what's the effect of inboard front toe-out in the TC? out of the box it comes with 2.5deg toe-out right? that's a bit much compared to the past touring cars i've used...
Inboard toe out or more commonly called "arm sweep" will give more steering at the apex of a corner. Some people feel it gives more initial steering, but I've mainly noticed the biggest difference around the middle of the corner.

It's all personal prefrence... On rubber tires with a spool I tend to run a lot, but I run on a really tight track. Generally most will use less arm sweep as grip comes up on a track. It helps it roll through the corner easier rather than digging in super hard. You'll just have to try it out and see what you like best .

-Korey
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Old 12-29-2008, 12:17 AM   #14884
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Was playing around with Adobe tonight and decided to build an editable Cyclone TC PDF. It is not perfect, but for my first time it seems to work pretty well.

Too big to attach on here, so here you go. http://home.comcast.net/~simplist/Cy...C Editable.pdf
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Old 12-29-2008, 02:09 AM   #14885
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hey guys

i finally got a pinion for my cyclone and put it on the road and my front wheels where wobling all of the place

now im not sure if this is because my wheels dont have a gud allignment or..

its my servo saver, i have no idea wat the servo saver does but that spring that is in it on mine i havent titend it up fully wud that be the problem?

and ideas plz help
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Old 12-29-2008, 08:13 AM   #14886
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Originally Posted by deanomgwhiteguy View Post
hey guys

i finally got a pinion for my cyclone and put it on the road and my front wheels where wobling all of the place

now im not sure if this is because my wheels dont have a gud allignment or..

its my servo saver, i have no idea wat the servo saver does but that spring that is in it on mine i havent titend it up fully wud that be the problem?

and ideas plz help
The servo saver helps to protect the servo from big impacts. The tighter the servo saver the more impact gets transferred to the servo and also the less slop there is in the steering under load. I built mine to the kit settings and it seems to function very well.

Not sure I really understand your issue with the wheels, can you explain in more detail?
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Old 12-29-2008, 02:41 PM   #14887
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It sounds to me like the bottom screw that goes through the castor block and into the steering knuckle backed out.

Mark
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Last edited by munrath; 12-29-2008 at 08:52 PM.
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Old 12-29-2008, 08:52 PM   #14888
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ok well if u have ure cyclone tc on table or on the road
and u move the wheels just a little bit without actualy turning the servo(with ure hand) my wheels move ALOT and when im going flat out driving it my front wheels just go crazy i bought a new hi-tec servo today and wacked it in and there is less play in the wheels but u can still move them alot im not sure if its those things that go over those ballish screws they seem to be loose abit can i fix that?
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Old 12-30-2008, 01:22 AM   #14889
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oh nvm guys i found my proboblem

in my drive shaft the grub screw that keeps the pin in place wasnt tite enough and the pin came out abit but all problems solved

just gota get it going straight now
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Old 12-30-2008, 07:57 AM   #14890
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hi there, a quick question if you guys could help me out. i hav problems with the MIP UJ vibrating when u fully steer ur car while throttle (like jamming sound). I hav made many attempts and also changing to a brand new MIP UJ set but doesnt seems solving the prob. Ideally, i saw xray coming out with their new UJ set for T09 which Hudy proclaimed to solve vibrations during full steering. Any idea to solve this in the cyclone? cheers!
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Old 12-30-2008, 08:25 AM   #14891
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steering throw is set to far, someone told me to even the knuckles with the blocks, its not really a biggie. You can also try adjusting the rate in your transitter
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Old 12-30-2008, 05:29 PM   #14892
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I would like to hear the feedback about the new pro spec diff from the new TC. Is anyone using it in the other models?
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Old 12-30-2008, 06:11 PM   #14893
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Originally Posted by Tulsa TC3 View Post
I would like to hear the feedback about the new pro spec diff from the new TC. Is anyone using it in the other models?
I ran it in my WCE before I got the TC. The pro diff bolts right in, is way smoother and you get much longer between rebuilds. I've run a 1/2 dozen different touring chassies in the past and this diff is the best I've seen yet.

For stock and superstock racing, the derlin outdrives work great. If you want to put the load of a mod to the diff, consider getting the alum outdrives.
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Old 12-30-2008, 06:33 PM   #14894
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I am currently running the aluminum outdrives and was wondering about the cvd's my WEC has in front. My car came with a buuuuuuunch of parts and every little that I have seen on the market, well minus front stearing blocks. Which set is going to be the best to run. The purple one that came with the wordls kit or the black options you can buy from HB. Next questionmore or less a bling question. I have the purple countersinks and want to run the on the top plate will it affect anything if I run them there?

thanks-
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Old 12-30-2008, 07:46 PM   #14895
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Originally Posted by Tulsa TC3 View Post
I am currently running the aluminum outdrives and was wondering about the cvd's my WEC has in front. My car came with a buuuuuuunch of parts and every little that I have seen on the market, well minus front stearing blocks. Which set is going to be the best to run. The purple one that came with the wordls kit or the black options you can buy from HB. Next questionmore or less a bling question. I have the purple countersinks and want to run the on the top plate will it affect anything if I run them there?

thanks-
Hang onto the WCE CVD's. According to the pics from the worlds, Hara runs them up front, with the standard TC universals in the back. I find the TC universals to be very smooth even at sharp turning angles, but haven't done any back-to-back testing with the WCE CVD's yet to see if there's any difference.

Regarding the top rear plate, the heat sink version is the stiffest, then the graphite on the WCE, then the FRP on the TC. Most racers run either the graphite or the FRP... some also cut it in half for even more flex and more rear traction, mostly for asphalt. Andy Moore even cut his for carpet racing at the IIC. If you run the bling heat sink, you'll be giving up some rear bite.
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