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Old 12-17-2008, 05:11 PM   #14776
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Nah, not yet, but until I get my new packs no point in adding weight until I can weigh the new ones with the same dimensions. With nimh the car was near 1525 but with new rules changing to 1500 I will be working on different layouts for weights, that part of the reason for this experiment.

ha ha, nah just need to find the right length since the current one was going too far down and hit the top of the lipo pack.
I'm in the same boat. I have some Orion 3800's coming as well. I'm going to balance the car from left to right and then use the middle, and under the front and read diffs to add weight. I will also be rebalncing the left to right weight when I get the new Orion speedo sometime after Christmas. Since all I run is sedan I can attach the weights to the battery with shoe goo. We also don't just use the regular tape weights. I'll see if I can get my buddy to post pics of the weight he made for his batteries. He got the stuff from his job. It looks neater too He will be making two more for the two batteries that should be here tomorrow.
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Old 12-17-2008, 05:18 PM   #14777
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Hey guys, I have a quick question. Well, a couple questions actually. I just found where HB offers a brushless motor mount for the TC. What is different about this from the kit motor mount? Is it a definite necessity for running BL? Also, what pivot blocks are included in the kit? Lastly, the aluminum steering links, are they a big advantage? Going to make an order tomorrow (including the kit itself) and just want to get everything that I need. Thanks in advance.
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Old 12-17-2008, 05:20 PM   #14778
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Good stuff Carl...Thanks for sharing the pics of the mods you did!
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Old 12-17-2008, 09:09 PM   #14779
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Even with all these mods of weight, I'm still a little light, so they may go in the front with the rest or in other places as I see what the car is doing. I am also planning on running the newer 3800 packs which are on the way. I know the dimensions are the same, but until I weigh them and see if there is any difference in weight, I'll leave off to be added for variances. Also with the room, I was still able to keep my wiring low and use bullets that have a cut out on the side so I could solder the wire at a 90* angle. I can keep it under the upper deck and each is marked and at the length where accidentally plugging in backwards is impossible. So far my experiment is feeling good, but the proof is on the track. BTW, I know I'm still missing a screw on the right side rear, but the one that was on it was too long and scrapping the top of the battery, so need to get the correct size. Comments?
UPS delivered my package this evening so I weighed the packs. The 3800 is 8.0oz or 228g I know that you have some coming but hopefully this will aloow you to get a jump on your balancing system.
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Old 12-17-2008, 09:22 PM   #14780
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Clint, do you actually have your Orion ESC? I cant find them in stock anywhere

You running the orion motors also im guessing? If so, hows the 13.5?
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Old 12-17-2008, 10:39 PM   #14781
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Clint, do you actually have your Orion ESC? I cant find them in stock anywhere

You running the orion motors also im guessing? If so, hows the 13.5?
I just got my motors and batteries today so I haven't had a chance to run them yet. The speedo has to wait until the first of the year for two reasons.
1. Christmas has me a little tapped out.
2. I want to run the motor using the LRP so that I get a feel for how the motor runs.

I think that after one day of racing I will have a good feel for how these motors run and after that I can then switch to the Orion speedo.
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Old 12-18-2008, 01:21 AM   #14782
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Originally Posted by Zdiddy View Post
Hey guys, I have a quick question. Well, a couple questions actually. I just found where HB offers a brushless motor mount for the TC. What is different about this from the kit motor mount? Is it a definite necessity for running BL?
The BL motor mount isn't needed for running BL. It raises the spur by 2mm to allow you to fit a larger spur gear, but you can run a 108 or even 110 (the largest you should need) with only the 110 sticking out of the chassis very slightly with the original motor mount.

I found that the BL motor mount tweaked my car a little so have gone back to the original now.
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Old 12-18-2008, 06:47 AM   #14783
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I've been using the cheap 3racing knuckles found off ebay for over a year, still haven't bent them or tweaked them. I haven't seen any other parts break from this, so it didn't seem to pass the damage to the uprights or arms. I also don't crash much, so if you track is nasty or your a real door banger, you might want to up for the better quality HPI knuckles from Japan. I also didn't notice any drop in front end grip, so there is still enough flex up front so that's not a real issue.

To be honest, I'm surprised HPI/Hot Bodies hasn't fixed this problem years ago. Coming from a Pro4, the issue started right when they introduced the knuckles with the little bubble so the steering would turn as far. Ever since then it splits knuckles down the front mold seem. I talked to Jeremy when he first started at HPI and sent him some examples, they were supposed to take a look at this to see if its and issue. Guess HPI figured they needed to keep selling knuckles!
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Old 12-18-2008, 11:41 AM   #14784
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Originally Posted by STLNLST View Post
UPS delivered my package this evening so I weighed the packs. The 3800 is 8.0oz or 228g I know that you have some coming but hopefully this will aloow you to get a jump on your balancing system.
Cool, I guess the weight is the same.
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Old 12-18-2008, 01:17 PM   #14785
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I just got my motors and batteries today so I haven't had a chance to run them yet. The speedo has to wait until the first of the year for two reasons.
1. Christmas has me a little tapped out.
2. I want to run the motor using the LRP so that I get a feel for how the motor runs.

I think that after one day of racing I will have a good feel for how these motors run and after that I can then switch to the Orion speedo.
Ahhh, ok.

Im building a B4 for my buddy. Will probably run a orion 13.5 I have a 5,6, and 7.5 already These motors are really efficient it seems like. Great run time (even with a 5.5) and cool running. But I will let the motor man decide on there 13.5 LOL.

I think I will just back order a orion speedo. And get it next year
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Old 12-18-2008, 01:33 PM   #14786
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Originally Posted by dizzy1 View Post
I've been using the cheap 3racing knuckles found off ebay for over a year, still haven't bent them or tweaked them. I haven't seen any other parts break from this, so it didn't seem to pass the damage to the uprights or arms. I also don't crash much, so if you track is nasty or your a real door banger, you might want to up for the better quality HPI knuckles from Japan. I also didn't notice any drop in front end grip, so there is still enough flex up front so that's not a real issue.

To be honest, I'm surprised HPI/Hot Bodies hasn't fixed this problem years ago. Coming from a Pro4, the issue started right when they introduced the knuckles with the little bubble so the steering would turn as far. Ever since then it splits knuckles down the front mold seem. I talked to Jeremy when he first started at HPI and sent him some examples, they were supposed to take a look at this to see if its and issue. Guess HPI figured they needed to keep selling knuckles!
Sorry you are having so many issues with your knuckles. I'm still running the kit ones and haven't broke any yet. Maybe its the track you run on cause the guys running the cars out here haven't really voiced that problem and there are a lot of TCs out here. Not to say some of the guys haven't broke that part, but it doesn't look unusual compared to what normally breaks in a crash. Might just be a bad string of luck. If you are talking about Jeremy Felles, he no longer works for HB, so it may have been overlooked. Just a guess.
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Old 12-18-2008, 01:59 PM   #14787
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Originally Posted by edseb View Post
Sorry you are having so many issues with your knuckles. I'm still running the kit ones and haven't broke any yet. Maybe its the track you run on cause the guys running the cars out here haven't really voiced that problem and there are a lot of TCs out here. Not to say some of the guys haven't broke that part, but it doesn't look unusual compared to what normally breaks in a crash. Might just be a bad string of luck. If you are talking about Jeremy Felles, he no longer works for HB, so it may have been overlooked. Just a guess.
I haven't really broken knuckles until just recently. I like having a back stock but you can't really do that with HB parts since they don't come in pairs. If I don't get the alum one's from TOP I guess I'll go with the regular parts and give the rear hubs to a novice racer.
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Old 12-18-2008, 02:16 PM   #14788
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Originally Posted by dizzy1 View Post
I've been using the cheap 3racing knuckles found off ebay for over a year, still haven't bent them or tweaked them. I haven't seen any other parts break from this, so it didn't seem to pass the damage to the uprights or arms. I also don't crash much, so if you track is nasty or your a real door banger, you might want to up for the better quality HPI knuckles from Japan. I also didn't notice any drop in front end grip, so there is still enough flex up front so that's not a real issue.

To be honest, I'm surprised HPI/Hot Bodies hasn't fixed this problem years ago. Coming from a Pro4, the issue started right when they introduced the knuckles with the little bubble so the steering would turn as far. Ever since then it splits knuckles down the front mold seem. I talked to Jeremy when he first started at HPI and sent him some examples, they were supposed to take a look at this to see if its and issue. Guess HPI figured they needed to keep selling knuckles!

Hi Dizzy1,
Sorry to hear the parts breakage that happening to your car.

As for the knuckle, we have checked all the stock parts and tested with them in the past but they all were ok. Also, there is no difference between the knuckles from Japan and from the US. They all are completely the same knuckles.

I believe that it all depends on what type of the race tracks you run on. Since they are not aluminum knucles, they still break in some cases (i.e: hard impact, etc). However, they are not so weak and have decent durability.

We really appreciate your input though.
Please feel free to let us know whenever you have a questions or concerns.
you can always reach me at kasuyah@hpiracing.com

Regards,
Hiroyuki Kasuya
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Old 12-18-2008, 02:38 PM   #14789
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Originally Posted by STLNLST View Post
I haven't really broken knuckles until just recently. I like having a back stock but you can't really do that with HB parts since they don't come in pairs. If I don't get the alum one's from TOP I guess I'll go with the regular parts and give the rear hubs to a novice racer.
I agree...no matter what crash I am in the rear hub holds up. I have a huge pile of them. This would all be solved by packaging the knuckles different.

I think I broke my knuckle the worse the other day. Nobody could believe it but I split it along the seam where the bearings sit, broke the steering arm off and broke my c-hub in two. Oddly enough this is on a track that so far has seemed very very easy on cars
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Old 12-18-2008, 03:00 PM   #14790
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Has anyone built a roll center calculator like some people have built for some other cars? I was recently looking at the one in the Tamiya forums and found it very useful.
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