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Old 12-17-2008, 01:30 PM   #14761
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Clint, I used the t2 knuckles a few years back with some success since I could get them locally.
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Old 12-17-2008, 01:56 PM   #14762
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Clint, I used the t2 knuckles a few years back with some success since I could get them locally.
Thanks. I will get my hands on some if I don't get the alum one's from TOP.
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Old 12-17-2008, 02:10 PM   #14763
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Questions??

Hi All

Do the spur gears have to be HB ones ?

Or can it take most brands

Thanks
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Old 12-17-2008, 02:13 PM   #14764
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I heard about this. Do I have to modify anything else to use them???
Besides using the front ackerman position they drop right in
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Old 12-17-2008, 02:21 PM   #14765
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Besides using the front ackerman position they drop right in
With Xray's prices it might be like running the aluminum one's.....LOL I'll check on the price later on today. Thanks for the info.
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Old 12-17-2008, 02:43 PM   #14766
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With Xray's prices it might be like running the aluminum one's.....LOL I'll check on the price later on today. Thanks for the info.
$5-6 from nexus racing depending on the hardness and that's one in a package or they offer 5 for $30
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Old 12-17-2008, 02:48 PM   #14767
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Thanks alot for sharing Carl!
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Originally Posted by edseb View Post
Yeah, car is pretty good. I've experimented a ton with set up at the track and found some pretty good stuff. Like always, my car could be better, and it does have a slight push on power, but very easy to drive and stable. I always set up my cars to be easy to drive and consistent.

First tires (after all tires are about 90% of a car's handling and my car is set up for Rp30s, totally different set up for Sorex 36s or Sorex 36 premounts like we ran at Reedy Race). I usually run old RP30s with Tire Tweak or Green Dip entire front and rears with blue mechanics towels and tire warmers at 52*C for about 20 minutes, wipe off with Buggy Grip 2 (old Buggy Grip if I can find it).

Front of car.
Tamiya 3 hole pistons. 45w Losi oil, stock bladder, no foam (Foam was too edgy for me), 50% rebound.
Gold Springs. 5 droop on gauge (6 if I need a bit more on power steering, but car gets a bit more edgy since suspension movement is minimal).
1.0 front inner hinge pin coupler (stock one has too much arm sweep and makes car very unstable around center, with the 1.0 it made the car narrower than rear and helped with some steering).
2mm spacers under all couplers front and rear.
.5 toe-in (I usually use toe-out, but car needed more on power and didn't need steering going in, also it mellowed out the twitchiness around center at speed)
Shock location #1 on arms, #3 on tower.
Silver sway bar. Spool.
CVDs. 1.5* camber. No front posts.
Ride height 5mm all around.
Camber link stock position #2 with 2mm spacer.
Stock wheel hexes all around.
4*Caster.
Inner arms spaced 2mm back.
Ackerman stock
4mm spacers on steering (stock)

Rear
Tamiya 3 hole pistons. 40w Losi oil, stock bladder, no foam. 50% rebound.
Silver springs. 5mm droop on gauge.
3* toe with 3.0 coupler, standard plastic rear hubs (Aluminum ones take away traction).
Shock location #3 on arms, #6 on tower.
Sway bar= Copper 1mm spacer at sway bar link front and rear.
Rear hubs spaced 2mm back. Inner arms 2mm forward. (with inner at 2mm, have to space outer hubs slightly back or Rear Universals have too much sweep).
Plastic pro diff.
Camber link stock on bulkhead w 2mm spacer, inner position on hub.
1.5* camber.
Center direct drive.
Mazda Speed 6 (Sometimes Mazda 6 depending on track).

Car is set up for Nimh 6 cell.

Things I'm trying next.
Lipo Orion 3800.
Narrow hexes.
1.5mm spacers under all inner hingepins.
I'm all trying an experiment with weights and a mod for the weights since I will be running lipo, more info coming.
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Old 12-17-2008, 03:18 PM   #14768
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Couple of the mods I've been working on for running lipos. In this case Orion carbon packs. I've held off running lipos since my car was so well balanced with nimh. First I weighed a 6 cell nimh pack 15.1 oz, then a carbon lipo pack 7.9 oz. I then knew what my difference would be and worked on a strategy to balance out the weight. The biggest problem I've found that most people just stick on weights to their packs. First, I don't like this cause it always puts the weights unevenly on the battery and usually in a position that makes it hang off the side. This isn't optimum since it will affect the balance greatly depending on where it is positioned. Obviously more off to the side would have a greater swing weight and inside might not be enough to balance since further out and the weight would have more leverage. Next, I never liked having all my packs with weight on them, just looks bad and my packs are always changing. I also use my packs for my offroad buggy, so they can't have weight on them permanently. Lastly, since the weight distribution is so much different than nimh, I thought a bit of trial and error would be needed. Here's what I ended up with and I'll explain how I got there.
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Old 12-17-2008, 03:22 PM   #14769
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First was the rear weights. Pretty straight forward, and they fit fairly neat and still have room for strapping tape. I found the carbon fiber "look" weights I found oversees and the common lead weight I just sprayed with a black rubber that I bought from Home Depot. Next is the front weight. Same as the back. I still have a bit of room as I fine tune to add more. Since I don't run the upper deck posts up front I have more room and I also just cut and sanded the upper deck to reflect this.
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Last edited by edseb; 12-17-2008 at 03:37 PM.
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Old 12-17-2008, 03:27 PM   #14770
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Next was the weight needed to be around middle. I wanted something moveable so I could experiment with fore and aft positioning. I used a piece of lexan from a 1/8 scale buggy body since it is real thick and durable and the inner radius matches the rounded corners of the lipo pack. I put some weight on the sides and shrink wrapped more weight to the top. All weights are shoe goo'd on. I don't like using double side tape since it creates unwanted gaps and shoe goo is more secure and looks better. I didn't want to go too wide with the piece since the strapping tape still needs to do its job of holding the battery in place. The lexan is still farely wide so I added 2 holes to help the tape grab the top of the battery. This system allows me to move the battery weights forward or back as I fine tune the cars handling and I can use it with any of my packs.
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Last edited by edseb; 12-17-2008 at 03:45 PM.
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Old 12-17-2008, 03:29 PM   #14771
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Now with the tape, the battery is pretty secure from front to back, but even with the battery inserts on the chassis I never liked the play the battery had side to side. I found a piece of plastic straw from my motor spray to be the perfect diameter in order to fill the gap on the much more round edge of the bottom of the battery. i shoe goo'd that in too and it fits perfect and happened to be the perfect length. Now the battery is snug and secure side to side and doesn't really look too bad.
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Old 12-17-2008, 03:31 PM   #14772
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Even with all these mods of weight, I'm still a little light, so they may go in the front with the rest or in other places as I see what the car is doing. I am also planning on running the newer 3800 packs which are on the way. I know the dimensions are the same, but until I weigh them and see if there is any difference in weight, I'll leave off to be added for variances. Also with the room, I was still able to keep my wiring low and use bullets that have a cut out on the side so I could solder the wire at a 90* angle. I can keep it under the upper deck and each is marked and at the length where accidentally plugging in backwards is impossible. So far my experiment is feeling good, but the proof is on the track. BTW, I know I'm still missing a screw on the right side rear, but the one that was on it was too long and scrapping the top of the battery, so need to get the correct size. Comments?
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Last edited by edseb; 12-17-2008 at 03:47 PM.
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Old 12-17-2008, 03:56 PM   #14773
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Originally Posted by edseb View Post
Next was the weight needed to be around middle. I wanted something moveable so I could experiment with fore and aft positioning. I used a piece of lexan from a 1/8 scale buggy body since it is real thick and durable and the inner radius matches the rounded corners of the lipo pack. I put some weight on the sides and shrink wrapped more weight to the top. All weights are shoe goo'd on. I don't like using double side tape since it creates unwanted gaps and shoe goo is more secure and looks better. I didn't want to go too wide with the piece since the strapping tape still needs to do its job of holding the battery in place. The lexan is still farely wide so I added 2 holes to help the tape grab the top of the battery. This system allows me to move the battery weights forward or back as I fine tune the cars handling and I can use it with any of my packs.
I knew I've seen that hand before. Page 17 of the JC penny add.....LOL So the car with a body on is 1525???? How light are you? Looks sweet bro

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Now with the tape, the battery is pretty secure from front to back, but even with the battery inserts on the chassis I never liked the play the battery had side to side. I found a piece of plastic straw from my motor spray to be the perfect diameter in order to fill the gap on the much more round edge of the bottom of the battery. i shoe goo'd that in too and it fits perfect and happened to be the perfect length. Now the battery is snug and secure side to side and doesn't really look too bad.
You already answered that.
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Old 12-17-2008, 04:00 PM   #14774
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Originally Posted by shadow102 View Post
$5-6 from nexus racing depending on the hardness and that's one in a package or they offer 5 for $30
$6 for one knuckle? If it breaks then I'm right back to the HB situation. Looks like going with the alum knuckle is going to be the better option.
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Old 12-17-2008, 04:05 PM   #14775
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Originally Posted by STLNLST View Post
I knew I've seen that hand before. Page 17 of the JC penny add.....LOL So the car with a body on is 1525???? Looks sweet bro

Is the screw missing out of the top deck for added flex????
Nah, not yet, but until I get my new packs no point in adding weight until I can weigh the new ones with the same dimensions. With nimh the car was near 1525 but with new rules changing to 1500 I will be working on different layouts for weights, that part of the reason for this experiment.

ha ha, nah just need to find the right length since the current one was going too far down and hit the top of the lipo pack.
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