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Old 12-16-2008, 05:47 PM   #14746
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The aluminum outdrives work fine but put more wear and tear on the diff and you will have to rebuild a little more often. The plastic ones work great and some pros have said they generate a little more traction (I'm yet to be convinced of this), but they are a little more fragile since they are plastic. Its a trade off you'll have to make.
Hey Carl do you mind sharing your BCR set-up here? I run at BCR once in a while and have seen your car on the track...and it's pretty dialed.
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Old 12-16-2008, 08:41 PM   #14747
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I am getting ready to purchase a Worlds edition from a local pro class drover and was wondering some of your opinions on the car in general and things to watch for. I the 3.5mm chassis a good investment and how does the Worlds Edition compare to the new TC and what parts would be wise to use from the TC.
Any help is appreciated thanks
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Old 12-17-2008, 12:03 AM   #14748
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I the 3.5mm chassis a good investment
only if you are running foam on carpet i guess otherwise stick to the std chassis

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what parts would be wise to use from the TC.
you would be advised to use the diff from the TC as it is way better then the older version.
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Old 12-17-2008, 02:21 AM   #14749
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Ah drift. I work with James and know what he was trying to do. For one, using that rear aluminum stiffens up the back and takes away some traction. By cutting the front, you will gain some flex and add a lot of twist to the front of the car. Since you run hard tires, you will never get the torsion on the chassis that you would from having traction so things like these mods would not only be counterproductive to a rubber race car, but would actually tune you in the wrong direction. For drifting it makes sense, but you have to remember the application, they don't translate very well to racing rubber touring cars.
my car is actually a drift application, thats interesting about the aluminum in teh rear, i may swap it for a fiberglass one i have, and maybe cut that in the center to again encourage cassis flex.
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Old 12-17-2008, 03:32 AM   #14750
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i do the setup box. and i run with LRP 4.0 and my rear do a S every time when i push the accel.
I wonder why


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Old 12-17-2008, 09:52 AM   #14751
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my car is actually a drift application, thats interesting about the aluminum in teh rear, i may swap it for a fiberglass one i have, and maybe cut that in the center to again encourage cassis flex.
I've tried the aluminum heat sink one like you have, the fiberglass one and the 3 Racing carbon fiber one all back to back on asphalt and although subtle I found the fiberglass one to be the most consistent and stable. That was on tight track with medium traction (BCR), so there may be times when the other ones might work better, so at this point I still have them all in my pit box. Chassis flex is a way to add to your tuning but can be taken too far. A car that is too flexy will twist and load up like a rubber band and either snap back unpredictably or hold and cause tweak. You can experiment, but be very careful, you could have a car that does a lot of weird things out of turns after it tries to go back to its original shape, that's why we don't run fiberglass or plastic chassis (at least for the most part) and run at least a certain thickness. I run the stock chassis, and prefer to let the car's suspension do most of the dampening and traction duties. I personally don't like to run a thinner bottom or top or thicker, the stock one seems about right. BTW, I don't use the posts at the front of the car either. Now for drifting, things may be the opposite, the car will never twist or load up like it would with traction, so I'm sure a stiffer chassis set up (like carpet) would be better and more consistent, but you will have to test that yourself. Good luck.
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Last edited by edseb; 12-17-2008 at 10:09 AM.
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Old 12-17-2008, 10:16 AM   #14752
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Anyone running alum front knuckles? I'm thinking of going to them. I don't mind replacing them when they break but I'm tired of buying 2 packs just to get 1 pair. The rear hub are useless to me. Who also has the best price? I'm sure some will say hotbodiesonline but that's a dead horse around here so if it's found somewhere else please share the info. Thanks in advance.
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Old 12-17-2008, 10:25 AM   #14753
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running them front and rear. the ones i have are made by top... couldnt find original hpi/hb ones locally at the time i was looking.
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Old 12-17-2008, 10:48 AM   #14754
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Hey Carl do you mind sharing your BCR set-up here? I run at BCR once in a while and have seen your car on the track...and it's pretty dialed.
Yeah, car is pretty good. I've experimented a ton with set up at the track and found some pretty good stuff. Like always, my car could be better, and it does have a slight push on power, but very easy to drive and stable. I always set up my cars to be easy to drive and consistent.

First tires (after all tires are about 90% of a car's handling and my car is set up for Rp30s, totally different set up for Sorex 36s or Sorex 36 premounts like we ran at Reedy Race). I usually run old RP30s with Tire Tweak or Green Dip entire front and rears with blue mechanics towels and tire warmers at 52*C for about 20 minutes, wipe off with Buggy Grip 2 (old Buggy Grip if I can find it).

Front of car.
Tamiya 3 hole pistons. 45w Losi oil, stock bladder, no foam (Foam was too edgy for me), 50% rebound.
Gold Springs. 5 droop on gauge (6 if I need a bit more on power steering, but car gets a bit more edgy since suspension movement is minimal).
1.0 front inner hinge pin coupler (stock one has too much arm sweep and makes car very unstable around center, with the 1.0 it made the car narrower than rear and helped with some steering).
2mm spacers under all couplers front and rear.
.5 toe-in (I usually use toe-out, but car needed more on power and didn't need steering going in, also it mellowed out the twitchiness around center at speed)
Shock location #1 on arms, #3 on tower.
Silver sway bar. Spool.
CVDs. 1.5* camber. No front posts.
Ride height 5mm all around.
Camber link stock position #2 with 2mm spacer.
Stock wheel hexes all around.
4*Caster.
Inner arms spaced 2mm back.
Ackerman stock
4mm spacers on steering (stock)

Rear
Tamiya 3 hole pistons. 40w Losi oil, stock bladder, no foam. 50% rebound.
Silver springs. 5mm droop on gauge.
3* toe with 3.0 coupler, standard plastic rear hubs (Aluminum ones take away traction).
Shock location #3 on arms, #6 on tower.
Sway bar= Copper 1mm spacer at sway bar link front and rear.
Rear hubs spaced 2mm back. Inner arms 2mm forward. (with inner at 2mm, have to space outer hubs slightly back or Rear Universals have too much sweep).
Plastic pro diff.
Camber link stock on bulkhead w 2mm spacer, inner position on hub.
1.5* camber.
Center direct drive.
Mazda Speed 6 (Sometimes Mazda 6 depending on track).

Car is set up for Nimh 6 cell.

Things I'm trying next.
Lipo Orion 3800.
Narrow hexes.
1.5mm spacers under all inner hingepins.
I'm all trying an experiment with weights and a mod for the weights since I will be running lipo, more info coming.
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Last edited by edseb; 12-17-2008 at 12:01 PM.
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Old 12-17-2008, 11:02 AM   #14755
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Anyone running alum front knuckles? I'm thinking of going to them. I don't mind replacing them when they break but I'm tired of buying 2 packs just to get 1 pair. The rear hub are useless to me. Who also has the best price? I'm sure some will say hotbodiesonline but that's a dead horse around here so if it's found somewhere else please share the info. Thanks in advance.
You can try speedtechrc.net, they usually have stuff. The aluminum ones should take away some steering, but if you're not finishing races, it may be something worth sacrificing. I noticed you are from Sacramento, in that case you probably run at Billy Bowerman's track Speedworld? His boards can be hard on cars. Still a great track and easier than other tracks on car parts, but they are still boards.
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Old 12-17-2008, 11:31 AM   #14756
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If anyone is interested in a NIBTC kit I have one I picked up for this season that I won't be able to use. $350 incl shipping.

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Old 12-17-2008, 11:49 AM   #14757
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You can try speedtechrc.net, they usually have stuff. The aluminum ones should take away some steering, but if you're not finishing races, it may be something worth sacrificing. I noticed you are from Sacramento, in that case you probably run at Billy Bowerman's track Speedworld? His boards can be hard on cars. Still a great track and easier than other tracks on car parts, but they are still boards.
Speedworld world isn't a problem for me. The boards may be hard but the cat set up is so good that the crashes are really little if any. The new carpet track out here in Chico have been brutal to the front end and it doesn't make sense to but the knuckles one at a time the way they are packaged. I'm not having problems finishing the races but going through the car I noticed little stress cracks on the knuckles and they need to be replaced but I only have one If I gotta spend money why not get a "PAIR" of alum one's If the TOP one's fit then I'll have them by Friday.
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Old 12-17-2008, 12:07 PM   #14758
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Speedworld world isn't a problem for me. The boards may be hard but the cat set up is so good that the crashes are really little if any. The new carpet track out here in Chico have been brutal to the front end and it doesn't make sense to but the knuckles one at a time the way they are packaged. I'm not having problems finishing the races but going through the car I noticed little stress cracks on the knuckles and they need to be replaced but I only have one If I gotta spend money why not get a "PAIR" of alum one's If the TOP one's fit then I'll have them by Friday.
Ah carpet. How's the traction there? The aluminum ones might actually work better for foam and rubber car set ups if the traction is high enough. TOP ones should fit.
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Old 12-17-2008, 12:35 PM   #14759
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Give the xray front knuckles a try they seem a little more durable than the hot bodies ones and they come in a package of only the front knuckle. Just have to use the front ackerman position on the knuckle
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Old 12-17-2008, 12:49 PM   #14760
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Ah carpet. How's the traction there? The aluminum ones might actually work better for foam and rubber car set ups if the traction is high enough. TOP ones should fit.
The traction is insane. The car is stuck and going fast so the crashes are hard. I've broke more there running 13.5 than I did at Speedworld with a 3.5 in the car

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Give the xray front knuckles a try they seem a little more durable than the hot bodies ones and they come in a package of only the front knuckle. Just have to use the front ackerman position on the knuckle
I heard about this. Do I have to modify anything else to use them???
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