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Old 11-19-2008, 07:29 AM   #14521
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
I'm totally stealing that idea with the silicone tubing. I never thought of that!!!

-Korey
U care to share the idea
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Old 11-19-2008, 09:01 AM   #14522
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Default A little Dilemma...

...

Last edited by RCBuddha; 11-19-2008 at 08:20 PM.
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Old 11-19-2008, 09:22 AM   #14523
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Originally Posted by Lonestar View Post
RcPete:
thanks for the explanation - I read it many times and try to understand it in my little mind... maybe I'm missing something (and I prolly am as you seem to be a sensible person ) but I don't understand how damping, which is created by the oil going through the piston holes, can be affected by the membrane "preload"... I guess I'll have to think about it more
I think I know what you're getting at, Paul... the bladder doesn't offer that much resistance... and you're right. I think that more of the pre-load pressure comes from compressing the air pocket above the bladder, rather than the bladder itself. I've seen some off-road shocks a while back that actually had a hole in the top cap, which produced very little rebound even with a stiff bladder.

In terms of what the extra bit of preload pressure does:
It slightly increases the oil pressure over top of the piston, which directly affects the damping effect.

If you were to move the shaft in and out at nearly 0 speed you would experience no damping effect at all. When you move the shaft quicker, lets say on the up stroke, fluild dynamics take over and higher pressure is created above the piston and lower pressure below. The effective damping effect is the sum of these pressures above and below the piston.
With the pre-load we create (extra bit of pressure above the piston), it adds to the damping effect on the up-stroke and reduces it on the down stroke.
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Old 11-19-2008, 10:01 AM   #14524
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Originally Posted by rc pete View Post
I think I know what you're getting at, Paul... the bladder doesn't offer that much resistance... and you're right. I think that more of the pre-load pressure comes from compressing the air pocket above the bladder, rather than the bladder itself. I've seen some off-road shocks a while back that actually had a hole in the top cap, which produced very little rebound even with a stiff bladder.

In terms of what the extra bit of preload pressure does:
It slightly increases the oil pressure over top of the piston, which directly affects the damping effect.

If you were to move the shaft in and out at nearly 0 speed you would experience no damping effect at all. When you move the shaft quicker, lets say on the up stroke, fluild dynamics take over and higher pressure is created above the piston and lower pressure below. The effective damping effect is the sum of these pressures above and below the piston.
With the pre-load we create (extra bit of pressure above the piston), it adds to the damping effect on the up-stroke and reduces it on the down stroke.

ha - yes, I think I get it now. I'm a bit old school so I'm always thinking old shocks with drilled caps... beginning to make sens now.

ok - then rebound actually "works" as long as fluid flow is laminar. When turbulent this is washed away, hence the impact on sweepers rather than quick chicanes... interesting.

now I need to learn how not to hit any boards first.

Thanks for taking the time to explain - sounds like there are still knowledgeable people on this forum after all

Paul
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Old 11-19-2008, 10:12 AM   #14525
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Originally Posted by Cruisaaja View Post
Hey

Another question

I dunno if somebode ask that before, but is it ok to use Tamiya 3 hole pistons in HB Cyclone TC shocks?

I measured those Tamiya and HB pistons last night and it look like Tamiya piston was smaller dia that HB one. I use original 2 hole pistons at the moment, but think some options to try

Just make sure if it doesn`t matter..
I currently use the tamiya pistons. It makes the dampening/pack a tiny bit less. We ran into the same situation when I ran for Corally. The Corally shocks are pretty similar as far as inner diameter goes. It's just a little different, but I haven't really been able to tell a difference between the HB 1.1mm 3 hole pistons and the tamiya 3 holes on the track yet.

-Korey
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Old 11-19-2008, 10:20 AM   #14526
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Originally Posted by dannybcaitlyn View Post
U care to share the idea
Here's the idea

http://www.rctech.net/forum/5065051-post3335.html

-Korey
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Old 11-19-2008, 10:47 AM   #14527
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Originally Posted by Cruisaaja View Post
Hey

Another question

I dunno if somebode ask that before, but is it ok to use Tamiya 3 hole pistons in HB Cyclone TC shocks?

I measured those Tamiya and HB pistons last night and it look like Tamiya piston was smaller dia that HB one. I use original 2 hole pistons at the moment, but think some options to try

Just make sure if it doesn`t matter..
I have them in my shocks right now and they seem just fine. I may be switching back to the HB 3 hole pistons for this weekend though.
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Old 11-19-2008, 11:07 AM   #14528
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I have them in my shocks right now and they seem just fine. I may be switching back to the HB 3 hole pistons for this weekend though.

I was just wondering if anyone had an honest opinion of the durability of the TC? I have been looking at this car but have not run an HPI car since the Pro4 days. What would be the weakest link on the car?

Any input would be appreciated.
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Old 11-19-2008, 03:03 PM   #14529
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I was just wondering if anyone had an honest opinion of the durability of the TC? I have been looking at this car but have not run an HPI car since the Pro4 days. What would be the weakest link on the car?

Any input would be appreciated.
I've broken steering knuckles the most... But that seems to be pretty common with a lot of cars to be honest. I've broken one arm... but I would have a few of those on hand too. Other than that, I just replace parts when they become worn out, which hasn't been very many so far.

-Korey
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Old 11-19-2008, 03:16 PM   #14530
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
I've broken steering knuckles the most... But that seems to be pretty common with a lot of cars to be honest. I've broken one arm... but I would have a few of those on hand too. Other than that, I just replace parts when they become worn out, which hasn't been very many so far.

-Korey
sounds very positive...sent you a PM!
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Old 11-19-2008, 03:36 PM   #14531
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Originally Posted by artwork View Post
I was just wondering if anyone had an honest opinion of the durability of the TC? I have been looking at this car but have not run an HPI car since the Pro4 days. What would be the weakest link on the car?

Any input would be appreciated.
It's a good idea to keep some steering blocks, hub carriers, c-hubs and a-arms in your box. These parts usually take the brunt of most impacts. I've broken a few steering blocks, one c-hub, one hub carrier and somehow I managed to break the molded swaybar ball stud off a rear a-arm.

The Cyclone has been a very durable car for the nearly 2 years I have been racing it. The newer TC version should be just as durable.
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Old 11-19-2008, 03:46 PM   #14532
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For me the diffs are the weakest link. Unless you buy the prospec diffs, expect to have diff bolts snapping on you. I even had an AE diff bolt snap the head off.
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Old 11-19-2008, 04:23 PM   #14533
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Just wanted to thank some of the local HotBodies Cyclone drivers for participating in the Team Orion Invitational Race November 1st and 2nd at Bending Corners Raceway.

Duy Khoung
Nelson Khoung
Carl Hyndman
Hiro K
Craig Nordstrom

You can check out a few photos of the drivers and BCR at:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2XHqTEt2194
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Old 11-19-2008, 04:29 PM   #14534
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Originally Posted by Stealth_RT View Post
For me the diffs are the weakest link. Unless you buy the prospec diffs, expect to have diff bolts snapping on you. I even had an AE diff bolt snap the head off.
The one of the best things about the TC kit, is it comes with the Pro spec diff already

-Korey
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Old 11-19-2008, 04:32 PM   #14535
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Originally Posted by STLNLST View Post
I plan on seeking revenge on all Tamiya's this weekend. Norcal 416's will feel my pain
Hahahahahahaha

Do work!
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