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Old 11-06-2008, 02:27 PM   #14401
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Originally Posted by dannybcaitlyn View Post
Im building my cyclone TC now and im now working on the shocks. Any tips ? How do I bleed these shocks top cap or bottom.
Fill them up with the shock standing vertically, and add a little extra oil so that when you put the bladder it will squish some out. Bladder shocks work different than emulsifying shocks that you see in electric offroad buggies. In bladder shocks you fill them up almost to the top, then work the piston in and out to make sure you didn't trap any air bubbles. You can also use a Ride Shock Pump to vacume out any remaining air, but if you let the bubbles work themselves out you could probably skip that tool. After working the shocks, let them sit vertically for at least 5-10 mintues to let any bubbles work there way to the top and escape. Next, with the shock shaft extended, put the bladder on top without the cap. Press the center part of the bladder down and let the excess oil bleed out the sides till the bladder has a nice seat (yeah it makes a little mess). You then can screw on the top cap. For less rebound you can bleed the oil like before, but push the shock shaft in half way (you can fine tune by pushing the shock shaft more or less in at this step). This will displace more unwanted oil in building and bleed off so rebound from displaced oil will be less when on the track. For more rebound, skip the step, or you can run with foam on top of bladder since kick back will be more aggressive. Measure the rebound when you push the shaft in all the way by checking how far it rebounds. You can do this with calipers. Hope this makes sense.
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Old 11-06-2008, 10:27 PM   #14402
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Has anyone run Jet Alloy front knuckles/C Hubs and rear hubs on there cyclone? Just been looking on RCMushroom at some,need to buy new knuckles and c hubs so just wondering if to buy some alloy ones or not

http://rc-mushroom.com/product_info....ducts_id=12599
http://rc-mushroom.com/product_info....ducts_id=12602
http://rc-mushroom.com/product_info....ducts_id=12614
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Old 11-06-2008, 11:44 PM   #14403
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Originally Posted by rc pete View Post
I went to the 0 from 1.5 (indoor carpet on rubber tires), in order to sharpen the turn in response and reduce mid-corner steering. We run on a bumpy track, and having the front end grab too much mid-corner unsettles the car. You end up with a slight mid-corner push as the steering gets flatter and you have to either drive around that or tune for it.
Thanks RC PETE for your information!
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Old 11-06-2008, 11:58 PM   #14404
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Originally Posted by edseb View Post
Fill them up with the shock standing vertically, and add a little extra oil so that when you put the bladder it will squish some out. Bladder shocks work different than emulsifying shocks that you see in electric offroad buggies. In bladder shocks you fill them up almost to the top, then work the piston in and out to make sure you didn't trap any air bubbles. You can also use a Ride Shock Pump to vacume out any remaining air, but if you let the bubbles work themselves out you could probably skip that tool. After working the shocks, let them sit vertically for at least 5-10 mintues to let any bubbles work there way to the top and escape. Next, with the shock shaft extended, put the bladder on top without the cap. Press the center part of the bladder down and let the excess oil bleed out the sides till the bladder has a nice seat (yeah it makes a little mess). You then can screw on the top cap. For less rebound you can bleed the oil like before, but push the shock shaft in half way (you can fine tune by pushing the shock shaft more or less in at this step). This will displace more unwanted oil in building and bleed off so rebound from displaced oil will be less when on the track. For more rebound, skip the step, or you can run with foam on top of bladder since kick back will be more aggressive. Measure the rebound when you push the shaft in all the way by checking how far it rebounds. You can do this with calipers. Hope this makes sense.
thanks for the tip , my shocks kept leeking but now i will rebuild them like this .
But i dont get what is rebound , should i use it or no ??
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Old 11-07-2008, 01:16 AM   #14405
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Dont know exactly what it does for the handling, but rebound is basically when you push the piston into the shock body (without the springs on) they bounce back out cause of the compressed oil inside.

I was told to build the shocks with rebound, i like to build four shocks together with same oil then compare how much each shock rebounds and group them together. I have spare shocks all over the place though so i can build four for the front then four for the rear.
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Old 11-07-2008, 01:51 AM   #14406
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Originally Posted by cyclone speed View Post
thanks for the tip , my shocks kept leeking but now i will rebuild them like this .
But i dont get what is rebound , should i use it or no ??
Rebound is how far/fast the shock shaft extends due to the pressures in the shock, without counting the rebound the spring causes.

For instance, I run 75-100% rebound outdoors to try and generate some responsiveness. Indoors the cars are too responsive, so I run closer to 50% rebound.

Matt.
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Old 11-07-2008, 04:04 AM   #14407
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What pinion/spur combo(64dpi) do people run to get around 3.6fdr which is the aproximate gear ratio for 17.5 on a track I am about to run on. I see that 85spur and 50-53pinion will give the ratio(on TC 2.16 internal) but will the gears mesh? I have tried 78/48 and they are mile apart
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Old 11-07-2008, 04:21 AM   #14408
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Originally Posted by kingpops View Post
What pinion/spur combo(64dpi) do people run to get around 3.6fdr which is the aproximate gear ratio for 17.5 on a track I am about to run on. I see that 85spur and 50-53pinion will give the ratio(on TC 2.16 internal) but will the gears mesh? I have tried 78/48 and they are mile apart
Matt

For 64p your looking for pinions in the 50 range. I was looking for something like 84spur with a 53 pinion with 17.5. Go with 48P that's what i did. Heck if you can get the spur i got the rite pinions to go with it if you need.

Also for kambah your after approx a 53-54mm roll out with the 17.5. Ill be testing the 54mm roll out this Sunday and seeing how it goes
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Old 11-07-2008, 10:41 AM   #14409
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Pocknell View Post
Rebound is how far/fast the shock shaft extends due to the pressures in the shock, without counting the rebound the spring causes.

For instance, I run 75-100% rebound outdoors to try and generate some responsiveness. Indoors the cars are too responsive, so I run closer to 50% rebound.

Matt.
How can i adjust rebound?
By the way , can i make the car more responsive by standing the shocks ?
If the car is too responsive , can it make the rear end slide ?
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Old 11-07-2008, 06:45 PM   #14410
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Originally Posted by edseb View Post
Fill them up with the shock standing vertically, and add a little extra oil so that when you put the bladder it will squish some out. Bladder shocks work different than emulsifying shocks that you see in electric offroad buggies. In bladder shocks you fill them up almost to the top, then work the piston in and out to make sure you didn't trap any air bubbles. You can also use a Ride Shock Pump to vacume out any remaining air, but if you let the bubbles work themselves out you could probably skip that tool. After working the shocks, let them sit vertically for at least 5-10 mintues to let any bubbles work there way to the top and escape. Next, with the shock shaft extended, put the bladder on top without the cap. Press the center part of the bladder down and let the excess oil bleed out the sides till the bladder has a nice seat (yeah it makes a little mess). You then can screw on the top cap. For less rebound you can bleed the oil like before, but push the shock shaft in half way (you can fine tune by pushing the shock shaft more or less in at this step). This will displace more unwanted oil in building and bleed off so rebound from displaced oil will be less when on the track. For more rebound, skip the step, or you can run with foam on top of bladder since kick back will be more aggressive. Measure the rebound when you push the shaft in all the way by checking how far it rebounds. You can do this with calipers. Hope this makes sense.
Thanks. Thats the kind of info I was looking for. The book doesn't go into much detail.
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Old 11-09-2008, 08:29 PM   #14411
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Default any new car kit from HB CYCLONE

pls post some picture of new TC spec or protoype tc

coz im looking tooo..thk alot...
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Old 11-09-2008, 08:51 PM   #14412
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Default cyclone

noob question for a hot bodies cyclone.

I was looking at a used cyclone ( I think Black) version ( I know it's not an S) to run in the VTA class. The current owner hit something and bent a RT front axle, he had to order a new one from Japan ?

Is there any place in the US that sells parts to this model car ?

thanks
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Old 11-09-2008, 09:28 PM   #14413
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Originally Posted by miket3 View Post
noob question for a hot bodies cyclone.

I was looking at a used cyclone ( I think Black) version ( I know it's not an S) to run in the VTA class. The current owner hit something and bent a RT front axle, he had to order a new one from Japan ?

Is there any place in the US that sells parts to this model car ?

thanks

Tower and Stormers carrys parts.
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Old 11-10-2008, 05:30 AM   #14414
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Tower and Stormers carrys parts.
If your local shop does not have parts you can always use www.hotbodiesonline.net

-j
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Old 11-10-2008, 05:43 AM   #14415
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Originally Posted by miket3 View Post
noob question for a hot bodies cyclone.

I was looking at a used cyclone ( I think Black) version ( I know it's not an S) to run in the VTA class. The current owner hit something and bent a RT front axle, he had to order a new one from Japan ?

Is there any place in the US that sells parts to this model car ?

thanks
Speedtechrc.com I just ordered from them they have a lot of the newer tc parts along with the 3racing and jaad parts
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