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Old 10-28-2008, 08:49 AM   #14326
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I tried running without getting the balance back in the car and it was a very bad idea. Its going to be a handful to drive and your going to kill tires on one side. I would just take the time to do it right. You can also buy a box of weight at your local auto parts store for about $30 and share it with your friends. And by a box I mean like 15lbs of weight.
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Old 10-28-2008, 09:15 AM   #14327
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Well, it happens that at my track no one but one guy (and not the fastest one) runs any lipo plates... and we're a pretty competitive bunch, believe me, with a former vice-world champ and regular Euro top-30 finisher up until a couple of years back.

again - to each his own.... all I'm saying is lipo plates aren't a "must have", just a "nice to have" for some. I'm happily trading a bit of balance for 150g less on my car.

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Old 10-28-2008, 10:56 AM   #14328
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Hi from england!- i have a feeling this will only apply to the brit cyclone owners, but we race on a very low grip wooden polished floor, and i just wondered if anyone has any set up pointers? i have done the best I can so far, long camber links, shumacher 20 mm mini pins, 20- 30 cwt oil etc, but would like to take the car up a level. i use a novak 8.5 and lipo for the benefits of low maintenance, and I know thats ridiculous for such conditions, and the car is ok, but no more than that. would tightening the belt help straighten the car under hard acceleration? anyone advise on the droop etc? thanks for your help
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Old 10-28-2008, 03:03 PM   #14329
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Hi guys, why do people use stiffer front springs and softer rear springs , what will it do if its the other way round ?
Thanks
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Old 10-28-2008, 04:45 PM   #14330
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KOREY????????????????
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Old 10-28-2008, 06:22 PM   #14331
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If you had harder springs in the rear than the front, the rear inside tire will most likely lift up in the corners. That will drive all the power to the rear inside tire, and not to the outside as well. This will destroy any power being transfered from the car to the ground, reducing corner speed.

Not to mention the car would be really hard to drive. Usually it would be really loose in the rear. It would spin out too easy.

Hope that made sense

-Korey
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Old 10-28-2008, 06:36 PM   #14332
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpower36 View Post
Hi from england!- i have a feeling this will only apply to the brit cyclone owners, but we race on a very low grip wooden polished floor, and i just wondered if anyone has any set up pointers? i have done the best I can so far, long camber links, shumacher 20 mm mini pins, 20- 30 cwt oil etc, but would like to take the car up a level. i use a novak 8.5 and lipo for the benefits of low maintenance, and I know thats ridiculous for such conditions, and the car is ok, but no more than that. would tightening the belt help straighten the car under hard acceleration? anyone advise on the droop etc? thanks for your help
What's your current set up and what would you like the car to improve on?
Belt tension wont really help with the car jerkin to one side on throttle...seems like your car might be tweaked or something is not lined up or unbalanced.

Is your car balanced left to right?

Make sure you have the equal amount of droop right and left, camber, toe, etc.
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Old 10-28-2008, 08:56 PM   #14333
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpower36 View Post
Hi from england!- i have a feeling this will only apply to the brit cyclone owners, but we race on a very low grip wooden polished floor, and i just wondered if anyone has any set up pointers? i have done the best I can so far, long camber links, shumacher 20 mm mini pins, 20- 30 cwt oil etc, but would like to take the car up a level. i use a novak 8.5 and lipo for the benefits of low maintenance, and I know thats ridiculous for such conditions, and the car is ok, but no more than that. would tightening the belt help straighten the car under hard acceleration? anyone advise on the droop etc? thanks for your help
My experience, I had a race that the track condition was so dusty and a bit bumpy. Made the car so loose and almost drifting on turns. Used low weight damping on the rear without stabs and loosened my rear diff on almost to slip. I think once you tighten the belt tension, yes it gets harder acceleration but it can generate twitchyness on corners on power.
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Old 10-29-2008, 01:11 AM   #14334
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
If you had harder springs in the rear than the front, the rear inside tire will most likely lift up in the corners. That will drive all the power to the rear inside tire, and not to the outside as well. This will destroy any power being transfered from the car to the ground, reducing corner speed.

Not to mention the car would be really hard to drive. Usually it would be really loose in the rear. It would spin out too easy.

Hope that made sense

-Korey
Yep , that makes sense , thanks Korey
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Old 10-29-2008, 04:03 AM   #14335
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Right after taking some time off to go full size car racing im back again for the winter.

Iv dusted off the WCE and it is having its first run back next week. What new parts from the cyclone TC fit the WCE?

Also going lipo do the orion 3800's fit ok?

Thanks

Dan
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Old 10-29-2008, 05:02 AM   #14336
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What new parts?
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Old 10-29-2008, 05:52 AM   #14337
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All the tc parts transfer over to all the other cyclone models except the atc posts. In order to use those you need the tc upper deck and the tc chassis since it has the holes. However the only two parts that the tc has that are worthwhile are the new suspension arms and especially the new rear diff.
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Old 10-29-2008, 06:26 AM   #14338
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Hughes View Post

Also going lipo do the orion 3800's fit ok?
yup - they drop right in, worst case file a bit of the motor mount where the top deck hooks on. You have to be able to flex the car without binding.

For info, WCE is still just as competitive as TC for 99.9% of us

Paul
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Old 10-29-2008, 06:53 AM   #14339
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shadow102 View Post
All the tc parts transfer over to all the other cyclone models except the atc posts. In order to use those you need the tc upper deck and the tc chassis since it has the holes. However the only two parts that the tc has that are worthwhile are the new suspension arms and especially the new rear diff.
So the new chassis only has battery trays and atc post holes?
Might look into the arms but they dont seem to offer much more, thanks anyway. I didnt really have much problems with the old diff but i might get the pro spec to try.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lonestar View Post
yup - they drop right in, worst case file a bit of the motor mount where the top deck hooks on. You have to be able to flex the car without binding.

For info, WCE is still just as competitive as TC for 99.9% of us

Paul
I wont bother changing that much by the sounds of things. Just give it a rebuild and get the thumbs back up to speed!
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Old 10-29-2008, 06:55 AM   #14340
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lonestar View Post
yup - they drop right in, worst case file a bit of the motor mount where the top deck hooks on. You have to be able to flex the car without binding.

For info, WCE is still just as competitive as TC for 99.9% of us

Paul
As I understand, TC is just replacement of WCE, doesn't mean as its sucessor, just totally step back, some option parts could not included as WCE had.
All WCE users of our town, didn't change for TC, instead of car users of another makes.
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