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Old 10-24-2008, 12:13 AM   #14266
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Originally Posted by vazzo View Post
Hey guys

I have a toe in issue on my TC at the rear, it's basically showing 3.5 toe in on the left and 2.5 on the right and im using the 3 degree block. Has anyone had this problem any help would be appreciated.

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Adrian
The only way you will ever solve this problem is to get alum hubs or tamiya rear hubs. It's an existing problem that you'll get a PC answer for from the sponsored guys but if you want it fixed do one of the above mentioned steps.
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Old 10-24-2008, 12:35 AM   #14267
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
Typically more camber change results in more grip, less camber change gives less grip. But like I said, it really depends on the track surface. It's something you'll just have to play with a little bit.

-Korey
Hi , but what do you mean "it will make the car lazy or slugish "

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Originally Posted by vazzo View Post
Hey guys

I have a toe in issue on my TC at the rear, it's basically showing 3.5 toe in on the left and 2.5 on the right and im using the 3 degree block. Has anyone had this problem any help would be appreciated.

Cheers
Adrian
Yep like STLNLST said get the alu hub.
I have checked my toe at the back and mine is equal with plastic.
But i think im going to get the alu hub
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Old 10-24-2008, 12:47 AM   #14268
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Lazy or sluggish meaning it wont transfer weight around quick enough or it won't react quick enough on that end of the car.

-Korey
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Old 10-24-2008, 01:05 AM   #14269
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Ahhh know i understand when people mean lazy .
would shorter link give more camber change or longer links would give more camber change ??
Whats better for my track ??
Also , whats the efect of less shims under the rear links , would it help change direction quicker ??? whats does it do?
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Old 10-24-2008, 06:36 AM   #14270
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Cyclone Speed, if you ever want to read a setup book that may help you understand a little more about setups, see if you can borrow an "XRAY SETUP GUIDE BOOK" if you can borrow one at the track. The book comes with all Xray car Kits. I keep one with me, since i have had those cars before.....It wont answer all the questions, but, you really should study it and try to understand what effects will do....BUT, IT ALL DEPENDS ON TRACK CONDITIONS.
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Old 10-24-2008, 06:46 AM   #14271
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Cyclone Speed, if you ever want to read a setup book that may help you understand a little more about setups, see if you can borrow an "XRAY SETUP GUIDE BOOK" if you can borrow one at the track. The book comes with all Xray car Kits. I keep one with me, since i have had those cars before.....It wont answer all the questions, but, you really should study it and try to understand what effects will do....BUT, IT ALL DEPENDS ON TRACK CONDITIONS.
Well i do have the book but i remember asking would having more shims under link infront , would it give more on power steering .This is what the book said lower RC (less shims in front) = more on power steering.
And when i asked somebody if it was true (lower front RC ) and people said " no , i dont see wy it should give more on power steering.
So thats why im asking people , because the book doesnt say everything like camber change or shorter links ....
Thats why i ask people
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Old 10-24-2008, 07:14 AM   #14272
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for me, yes lower inner link(more angled down) in the front will generate more camber, resulting more traction(more steering) in different part of the turns.
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Old 10-24-2008, 07:22 AM   #14273
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As for "ON Power Steering", you may need to look somewhere else on setups.
Perhaps more Caster, Spring rates, and less front droop, less rear toe.

I adjust roll center adjustments for turning capabilities, and transitions and track conditions.

ON Power can also be ackerman settings which can result in less OFF power steering.

Wheelbase can give ON power steering.

Just more things to think about.
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Old 10-24-2008, 07:55 AM   #14274
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Cyclone speed
I have every book I can get and as Korey said some things work on one car and not on others. At the track it's just you, your car and a book. I have found the XXX Main chassis set up guide to be the most accurate with my Cyclone, It's $20 at Tower Hobbies. Even with this great book you'll still have questions but they will be why this didn't do what it supposed to do, thats because it depends on what the car is doing. Thats what you have to figure out at the track. It helps me if I have a good driver drive my car and I watch what it's doing.
I hope that helps you some.
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Old 10-24-2008, 08:48 AM   #14275
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RCFREAK View Post
As for "ON Power Steering", you may need to look somewhere else on setups.
Perhaps more Caster, Spring rates, and less front droop, less rear toe.

I adjust roll center adjustments for turning capabilities, and transitions and track conditions.

ON Power can also be ackerman settings which can result in less OFF power steering.

Wheelbase can give ON power steering.

Just more things to think about.
Ok , I will figure it out myself thanks for your info.

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Originally Posted by Lazer Guy View Post
Cyclone speed
I have every book I can get and as Korey said some things work on one car and not on others. At the track it's just you, your car and a book. I have found the XXX Main chassis set up guide to be the most accurate with my Cyclone, It's $20 at Tower Hobbies. Even with this great book you'll still have questions but they will be why this didn't do what it supposed to do, thats because it depends on what the car is doing. Thats what you have to figure out at the track. It helps me if I have a good driver drive my car and I watch what it's doing.
I hope that helps you some.
Thanks , i will purchase it since it might help a bit more , and i will ask someone to drive my car and see what hes doing.
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Old 10-24-2008, 09:45 AM   #14276
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Originally Posted by Lazer Guy View Post
Cyclone speed
I have every book I can get and as Korey said some things work on one car and not on others. At the track it's just you, your car and a book. I have found the XXX Main chassis set up guide to be the most accurate with my Cyclone, It's $20 at Tower Hobbies. Even with this great book you'll still have questions but they will be why this didn't do what it supposed to do, thats because it depends on what the car is doing. Thats what you have to figure out at the track. It helps me if I have a good driver drive my car and I watch what it's doing.
I hope that helps you some.
LG is nuts on....I will get one of the better races to get on the stand with me during practice, sometimes its the setup - often times its the line....
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Old 10-24-2008, 10:23 AM   #14277
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Shorter links tend to give more camber change. They give a lot more grip at the beginning of the corner, then give elss grip through the rest of the corner. They also make the car react a lot faster too (sometimes really edgy and hard to drive) Usually if the track is really high grip, tight, and technical, I will run the shorter camber link (the outer hole on the upper bulkhead). It makes the car dive into the corner a lot better.

Longer links will usually produce less camber change, and I tend to use them when the traction is lower (asphalt racing typically) on bigger tracks so it will make the car smoother, and have more grip in the middle and exit of the corner for those long sweeping turns. Length of a camber link works a little different than just adding or removing shims to chaneg the angle of the link itself. Here's a little cheat sheet/guideline that I always go by:

Long Link: Smoother initially, more overal grip in the middle and exit of a corner (think softer)
Short link: Lots of initial grip, less in the middle and exit of a corner. (think stiffer)

More Angle (inside of camber link is lower than outside): Less initial grip, more grip in the middle and exit of the corner.
Less Angle (link is more parallel to the ground): More initial grip, less in the middle and exit of the corner.

You use these concepts to get a good balance of your car. Lets say we have 2mm under the frotn and rear camber links, but you notice your car is getting a little loose in the middle of the corners. You could remove some shims from the inside of the rear camber link. This will produce more rear grip in the middle and exit of the corner.

I always tend to break the corner up into entry/initial, mid and exit. That allows me to analyze what I have and dont have, and what I want in certain spots of the corner.

XXX main setup book is really good. I don't agree with a few things, but like I said before. It REALLY depends on driving style, track conditions, and the rest of your setup. Sometimes there is something else wrong with your setup causing an ill handling car. It just takes practice, and experience to be able to tell which adjustment will be best for your situation. The book gives a really good general description of what will happen, but is not always 100% accurate.

That was a long winded post. I'm going to class now haha. Hope that helped a few of you guys!

-Korey
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Old 10-24-2008, 10:47 AM   #14278
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
Shorter links tend to give more camber change. They give a lot more grip at the beginning of the corner, then give elss grip through the rest of the corner. They also make the car react a lot faster too (sometimes really edgy and hard to drive) Usually if the track is really high grip, tight, and technical, I will run the shorter camber link (the outer hole on the upper bulkhead). It makes the car dive into the corner a lot better.

Longer links will usually produce less camber change, and I tend to use them when the traction is lower (asphalt racing typically) on bigger tracks so it will make the car smoother, and have more grip in the middle and exit of the corner for those long sweeping turns. Length of a camber link works a little different than just adding or removing shims to chaneg the angle of the link itself. Here's a little cheat sheet/guideline that I always go by:

Long Link: Smoother initially, more overal grip in the middle and exit of a corner (think softer)
Short link: Lots of initial grip, less in the middle and exit of a corner. (think stiffer)

More Angle (inside of camber link is lower than outside): Less initial grip, more grip in the middle and exit of the corner.
Less Angle (link is more parallel to the ground): More initial grip, less in the middle and exit of the corner.

You use these concepts to get a good balance of your car. Lets say we have 2mm under the frotn and rear camber links, but you notice your car is getting a little loose in the middle of the corners. You could remove some shims from the inside of the rear camber link. This will produce more rear grip in the middle and exit of the corner.

I always tend to break the corner up into entry/initial, mid and exit. That allows me to analyze what I have and dont have, and what I want in certain spots of the corner.

XXX main setup book is really good. I don't agree with a few things, but like I said before. It REALLY depends on driving style, track conditions, and the rest of your setup. Sometimes there is something else wrong with your setup causing an ill handling car. It just takes practice, and experience to be able to tell which adjustment will be best for your situation. The book gives a really good general description of what will happen, but is not always 100% accurate.

That was a long winded post. I'm going to class now haha. Hope that helped a few of you guys!

-Korey
thanks for the long post it has helped me out abit more , but i dont know what is initial grip.
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Old 10-24-2008, 11:12 AM   #14279
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
Shorter links tend to give more camber change. They give a lot more grip at the beginning of the corner, then give elss grip through the rest of the corner. They also make the car react a lot faster too (sometimes really edgy and hard to drive) Usually if the track is really high grip, tight, and technical, I will run the shorter camber link (the outer hole on the upper bulkhead). It makes the car dive into the corner a lot better.

Longer links will usually produce less camber change, and I tend to use them when the traction is lower (asphalt racing typically) on bigger tracks so it will make the car smoother, and have more grip in the middle and exit of the corner for those long sweeping turns. Length of a camber link works a little different than just adding or removing shims to chaneg the angle of the link itself. Here's a little cheat sheet/guideline that I always go by:

Long Link: Smoother initially, more overal grip in the middle and exit of a corner (think softer)
Short link: Lots of initial grip, less in the middle and exit of a corner. (think stiffer)

More Angle (inside of camber link is lower than outside): Less initial grip, more grip in the middle and exit of the corner.
Less Angle (link is more parallel to the ground): More initial grip, less in the middle and exit of the corner.

You use these concepts to get a good balance of your car. Lets say we have 2mm under the frotn and rear camber links, but you notice your car is getting a little loose in the middle of the corners. You could remove some shims from the inside of the rear camber link. This will produce more rear grip in the middle and exit of the corner.

I always tend to break the corner up into entry/initial, mid and exit. That allows me to analyze what I have and dont have, and what I want in certain spots of the corner.

XXX main setup book is really good. I don't agree with a few things, but like I said before. It REALLY depends on driving style, track conditions, and the rest of your setup. Sometimes there is something else wrong with your setup causing an ill handling car. It just takes practice, and experience to be able to tell which adjustment will be best for your situation. The book gives a really good general description of what will happen, but is not always 100% accurate.

That was a long winded post. I'm going to class now haha. Hope that helped a few of you guys!

-Korey

Great post. With the info you have given over the last month people should be able to beat Hara by now They just have to go out and try it because the race isn't won on the message boards
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Old 10-24-2008, 11:26 AM   #14280
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post

I always tend to break the corner up into entry/initial, mid and exit. That allows me to analyze what I have and dont have, and what I want in certain spots of the corner.

-Korey
cyclone speed
He brakes the corner into 3 piece's,,,(entry/initial) being the beginning of the corner.
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