R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 10-22-2008, 04:12 PM   #14236
Tech Master
 
shadow102's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,441
Trader Rating: 21 (96%+)
Default

Well I have some good and bad news about the xray c hubs needed to run the new axles.

The c hub itself physically fits in the space. However the xray hinge pin is larger in diameter so you will to get them and drill out the arms so they fit. You will also need the hat bushings to go into the c hub. So it should all work with some minor modification and a couple extra bucks...all depends on how much the spool chatter is bothering you
__________________
Hot Bodies Cyclone - - TeamTekin - - Spektrum - - Team Orion - - Futaba

www.nexusracing.com
www.go-rc.org
shadow102 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2008, 04:21 PM   #14237
Tech Master
 
pcar951's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Cow Town
Posts: 1,694
Trader Rating: 19 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by cyclone speed View Post
Hi , i already had probleme with oversteer , thats wy i went from 2 mm to1mm under rear camber link.
Huh....you're raising the rear roll center to limit oversteer???
pcar951 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2008, 04:28 PM   #14238
Tech Champion
 
Korey Harbke's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Redmond, WA
Posts: 6,116
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Yes, it techincally raises the roll center, but usually one will feel the effects of the amount of camber regression (more negative camber as the suspension is compressed) when the camber links are more angled.

A more angled link will give slighly less initial grip for the first 10% of the corner, then will create more grip throughout the rest of the turn.

You will notice the effects of rollcenter more from moving the suspension/toe blocks up and down with shims.

-Korey
__________________
Seido Speed Works - Apex RC - Prospec America - RC Mission America - LRP - Protoform - AVID - 1Up Racing - Xenon - Xpert - Sanwa - SpeedZombi - Slapmaster Tools - Turtlemaster Racing - Seattle RC Racers
Korey Harbke is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2008, 11:21 PM   #14239
Tech Champion
 
SpeedTech's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 6,028
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Hi Guys,

For those who have been searching, We have Cyclone TC's back in stock.

Cheers,
Jeff
__________________
>>>www.SpeedtechHobbies.com<<<
SpeedTech is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-2008, 06:57 AM   #14240
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Adrian, MI
Posts: 823
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

I'm going to try using the outside hole on the rear hub and inside hole on the rear bulkhead for a very long link, I've not seen this used on any set-up posted by anybody. I did some dremeling on the ball cup so it wont hit the wheel , I'm running carpet rubber 10.5.
I would like to know what effect this will have (front & back) before I drive with this change so I know what to expect.

Thanks Guys
Lazer Guy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-2008, 07:12 AM   #14241
Tech Master
 
shadow102's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,441
Trader Rating: 21 (96%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lazer Guy View Post
I'm going to try using the outside hole on the rear hub and inside hole on the rear bulkhead for a very long link, I've not seen this used on any set-up posted by anybody. I did some dremeling on the ball cup so it wont hit the wheel , I'm running carpet rubber 10.5.
I would like to know what effect this will have (front & back) before I drive with this change so I know what to expect.

Thanks Guys
Why do you need that much traction on carpet. I tried that once runnign outdoor asphalt and the off power steering was terrible. I had the traction I was looking for. I shortened up the link to the original position put on some softer rear springs and it gave me the traction I was looking for and the off power steering I was looking for
__________________
Hot Bodies Cyclone - - TeamTekin - - Spektrum - - Team Orion - - Futaba

www.nexusracing.com
www.go-rc.org
shadow102 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-2008, 07:40 AM   #14242
Tech Addict
 
cyclone speed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 621
Default

hi , does anyone has a picture of there car with a GTB please.
thanks
cyclone speed is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-2008, 08:13 AM   #14243
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Adrian, MI
Posts: 823
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

shadow102
I'm trying to get a better feel for what happens when I go to far on some things. So I should see more traction and less off power steering on low grip carpet with rubber, What about on power steering with the long rear link ??
Maybe I don't need to go there ???

Last edited by Lazer Guy; 10-23-2008 at 10:29 AM.
Lazer Guy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-2008, 08:27 AM   #14244
Tech Champion
 
STLNLST's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 8,952
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by cyclone speed View Post
hi , does anyone has a picture of there car with a GTB please.
thanks
Do a search on this thread for one of my posts. I posted pics of mine.
STLNLST is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-2008, 11:16 AM   #14245
Tech Champion
 
Korey Harbke's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Redmond, WA
Posts: 6,116
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Typically when you move the camber link to the outer position on the read hub carrier, it will make the rear of the car really lazy, then start to free up/wash out from the middle of the corner out. When you mount it to where 99.9% of the setups you see have it, it will make the car turn in quicker, and have more overall rear grip in the middle and exit of the corner.

I usually always tried it on cars other than the cyclone with great success. The cyclone just didnt seem to react to it as well, so I just always run the inner position, and change the length from where it mounts to the upper bulkhead.

It's all because of the amount of camber change when the suspension is compressed. Usually more camber change (more negative camber as the suspension is compressed) yeilds more grip. When lengthening the camber link to the outer hole on the rear hub carrier, it usually reduces the amount of camber change as the suspension is compressed, and gives less overall rear grip as the car goes through the corner.

Of course, this isn't always entirely true. It also depends on the amount of traction available on the surface. So I would just give it a shot, and see how ya like it

Hope that helped you some.

-Korey

Hope that helps.
__________________
Seido Speed Works - Apex RC - Prospec America - RC Mission America - LRP - Protoform - AVID - 1Up Racing - Xenon - Xpert - Sanwa - SpeedZombi - Slapmaster Tools - Turtlemaster Racing - Seattle RC Racers
Korey Harbke is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-2008, 11:21 AM   #14246
Tech Addict
 
cyclone speed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 621
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
Typically when you move the camber link to the outer position on the read hub carrier, it will make the rear of the car really lazy, then start to free up/wash out from the middle of the corner out. When you mount it to where 99.9% of the setups you see have it, it will make the car turn in quicker, and have more overall rear grip in the middle and exit of the corner.

I usually always tried it on cars other than the cyclone with great success. The cyclone just didnt seem to react to it as well, so I just always run the inner position, and change the length from where it mounts to the upper bulkhead.

It's all because of the amount of camber change when the suspension is compressed. Usually more camber change (more negative camber as the suspension is compressed) yeilds more grip. When lengthening the camber link to the outer hole on the rear hub carrier, it usually reduces the amount of camber change as the suspension is compressed, and gives less overall rear grip as the car goes through the corner.

Of course, this isn't always entirely true. It also depends on the amount of traction available on the surface. So I would just give it a shot, and see how ya like it

Hope that helped you some.

-Korey

Hope that helps.
Hi Korey
what woul you recomend me to use , normal lenght on 99.9 % of setups or fully extended.
I run on low grip track , medium size track.
Thanks
cyclone speed is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-2008, 11:34 AM   #14247
Tech Champion
 
Korey Harbke's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Redmond, WA
Posts: 6,116
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

I would suggest the normal setup that everyone else uses. It's better overall in my opinion... it works in a wider variety of conditions. Especially in your case since you are in a low traction condition. It will make the rear end react faster to direction changes and be a little more "locked in" overall.

I just saw your on power steering question as well from a little while ago. I would try and tighten your front droop screws just a tiny bit, that will prevent weight form jacking to the back of the car when you're on the throttle. From there maybe go a little thicker on the front shock oil. Usually this helps with high speed steering, and also slows weight transfer to the rear of the car. You can always try a little more front arm sweep too. So if you have a 2.0 deg toe block up front, try a 2.5 deg, usually I noticed it does more in lower speed corners, but it's with a shot.

Also try a tiny bit of antidive, about .5mm. This is when the front toe block is slightly lower than the supension block in the front. So... the front hinge pins will point slightly down towards the front part of the car. Usually this will increase steering under braking, and also when you start to accellerate through the corner. It tends to numb "off power" steering a bit though, so keep that in mind.

A less conventional solution (for rubber tires on asphalt) that I tend to do a lot in carpet racing on foam tires is just add more caster. The typical norm is to always run 4 deg caster blocks, but you might even just want to try 6 deg blocks as well. It will smooth out corner entry a tiny bit, but make the car carve the rest of the corner really well.

Hope that helps CS!

-Korey
__________________
Seido Speed Works - Apex RC - Prospec America - RC Mission America - LRP - Protoform - AVID - 1Up Racing - Xenon - Xpert - Sanwa - SpeedZombi - Slapmaster Tools - Turtlemaster Racing - Seattle RC Racers
Korey Harbke is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-2008, 11:39 AM   #14248
Tech Addict
 
cyclone speed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 621
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
I would suggest the normal setup that everyone else uses. It's better overall in my opinion... it works in a wider variety of conditions. Especially in your case since you are in a low traction condition. It will make the rear end react faster to direction changes and be a little more "locked in" overall.

I just saw your on power steering question as well from a little while ago. I would try and tighten your front droop screws just a tiny bit, that will prevent weight form jacking to the back of the car when you're on the throttle. From there maybe go a little thicker on the front shock oil. Usually this helps with high speed steering, and also slows weight transfer to the rear of the car. You can always try a little more front arm sweep too. So if you have a 2.0 deg toe block up front, try a 2.5 deg, usually I noticed it does more in lower speed corners, but it's with a shot.

Also try a tiny bit of antidive, about .5mm. This is when the front toe block is slightly lower than the supension block in the front. So... the front hinge pins will point slightly down towards the front part of the car. Usually this will increase steering under braking, and also when you start to accellerate through the corner. It tends to numb "off power" steering a bit though, so keep that in mind.

A less conventional solution (for rubber tires on asphalt) that I tend to do a lot in carpet racing on foam tires is just add more caster. The typical norm is to always run 4 deg caster blocks, but you might even just want to try 6 deg blocks as well. It will smooth out corner entry a tiny bit, but make the car carve the rest of the corner really well.

Hope that helps CS!

-Korey
huh , i will try thicker oil .When you say tighten droop screw dp you mean les droop over ride height.
Whats the effect of the front toe block i.e 0 deg or 3 deg ??
Thanks
cyclone speed is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-2008, 11:55 AM   #14249
Tech Champion
 
Korey Harbke's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Redmond, WA
Posts: 6,116
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Yup, less droop over ride height.

Arm sweep is something I've noticed usually affects the car right around the middle of the corner, and very slightly on entry.

Less arm sweep (0 deg front toe block) will turn in just a tiny bit harder for the first 10-15% of the corner, and be smoother for the rest of the turn.

More arm sweep (3.0deg front toe block) will smooth entry into the corner a bit, but give really good mid corner steering.

-Korey
__________________
Seido Speed Works - Apex RC - Prospec America - RC Mission America - LRP - Protoform - AVID - 1Up Racing - Xenon - Xpert - Sanwa - SpeedZombi - Slapmaster Tools - Turtlemaster Racing - Seattle RC Racers
Korey Harbke is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-2008, 11:57 AM   #14250
Tech Fanatic
 
rc pete's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Airdire, AB, Canada
Posts: 773
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

The standard carpet setups on HB site are for rubber tires. Are you supposed to run those with the standard chassis & upper deck or the stiff ones?

It sounds like the carpet conversion kit is intended for foam only. Is that right?

Thanks,
Pete
rc pete is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Hot Bodies Cyclone S wardyl Electric On-Road 4 10-01-2008 07:01 AM
Hot bodies Cyclone 12 k7king R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 1 09-04-2008 07:09 AM
WTB Hot Bodies Cyclone/ cyclone Parts tenpins77 R/C Items: Wanted to Buy 0 07-29-2008 07:48 AM
Hot Bodies Cyclone sdt1 Australia For Sale/Trade 6 07-13-2008 02:05 AM
WTB: Cyclone S/Cyclone Painted bodies vazzo Australia Wanted to Buy 0 02-05-2008 05:15 AM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 09:24 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net