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Old 10-05-2008, 01:19 AM   #14041
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
Thats the universal joints binding up a little bit I think, which is totally normal. You notice is a lot more when the car is off the ground. Just turn down your steering endpoints a bit and you should be fine.


Vern- That thing looks really cool

-Korey
Thanks Korey il check the universal joint.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cruisaaja View Post
Hey Korey

I test last night new things for my TC (high grip carpet with rubbertires) and it seems to be worked well. I lowered rollcenter 1.5mm and shorter front link and also chance front pivot block 0 degree so it cooled down front a lot. I was pleased about those changes. Now i`ll test next shockoils and droops.

Now I drove AE50wt front and 40wt rear and i might test thinner oils like 40/30wt with gold/silver springs

How you measured droops? I measured them like wheels off and lay car on the table and take the hight on the top of the axle

I use front 26mm and rear 24mm droops
the way i mesure my droop i do like that :

put the car on a flat surface mesure the ride height and then i lift the car at each end at the centerline .and then when both wheel just lift from the ground i take a ruler and mesure the space between the ground and the chassis.
i.e

car on flat surface , 5mm ride height . take a screw driver and lift the car at the midle of the chassis , when 2 wheels just lift , i take the ruler and mesure the gap , if it shows 8mm it means you have 3mm droop.

i.e

car has 5.5 mm ride height , lift it at centerline of chassis tkae ruler and mesur space between the chassis and ground when 2 wheels just lift . If ruler shows 10mm you have 4.5 mm droop

Hope you understood me.
Also could someone tell me how can i have more cornering speed because when im in the corner if i go abit fast my car seems to have not enough steering so i have to slow down for it to turn properly .
Any advice ? thanks
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Old 10-05-2008, 09:51 AM   #14042
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This month Japan magazine posted Hara car FR Mount used Tamiya 1C .
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Old 10-05-2008, 10:29 AM   #14043
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Old 10-05-2008, 10:45 AM   #14044
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What cyclone speed said is usually how I measure my droop. Lately I've been going off a gauge at first to make sure all the arms are level, and assuming the chassis is flat and not tweaked in any way, the tires usually lift up at the same time. But I just measure how much the chassis lifts up above ride height.

Cyclone Speed- So those changes I had you make the car a little too stuck now??? hmmm You'll just have to find a happy medium between the adjustments you've tried recently, and the ones that made it fishtail all over the place. You can try running a little bit less rear toe in, that should free up the car a little bit. Personally, with those changes you made I ended up dropping a spring rate on the front end from gold to pink.

-Korey
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Old 10-05-2008, 11:00 AM   #14045
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
What cyclone speed said is usually how I measure my droop. Lately I've been going off a gauge at first to make sure all the arms are level, and assuming the chassis is flat and not tweaked in any way, the tires usually lift up at the same time. But I just measure how much the chassis lifts up above ride height.

Cyclone Speed- So those changes I had you make the car a little too stuck now??? hmmm You'll just have to find a happy medium between the adjustments you've tried recently, and the ones that made it fishtail all over the place. You can try running a little bit less rear toe in, that should free up the car a little bit. Personally, with those changes you made I ended up dropping a spring rate on the front end from gold to pink.

-Korey
Korey , i have had this probleme for over 5 month so the changes that you told me to try did not afect the cornering speed , ( when i had 2mm under camber link and now 1mm under camber link it did not make the probleme worth) .
I had few problem like rear end loose and know resolved , funny noise with universal joint now less noise .But know i have to get a bit more cornering speed.thats my probleme know.
So know id like to know how to improve cornering speed?
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Old 10-05-2008, 11:08 AM   #14046
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Usually if one wants to increase corner speed, it can't be said to just do a few things, and instantly your corner speed goes up. It's a balance of everything working together to make the car more efficient through the corner.

Usually for me, when I want more corner speed I try to make the car have more steering. That only works to a point though, because you can square off corners, get loose, ect. Maybe post your complete setup again and I'll take a gander at it to see if I can point anything else out.

-Korey
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Old 10-05-2008, 11:20 AM   #14047
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my setup on low grip smooth , asphalt outdoor medium tight track:

front:

under camber link 2mm
under toe pivot block 1mm FF and FR
4mm ackerman
shock oil 40w 3 hole piston hole number 1 position
droop over ride height 2mm
ride height 5mm
spool
0.5 toe out
2.5 toe block
camber 1.5
anti roll bar 1.4mm

rear:

under camber link 1mm
under toe pivot block 1.5mm RR and RF
shock oil 40w 3 hole piston hole number 3 position
droop over ride height 3mm
ride height 5.5mm
2.5 toe in
3.0 toe block
camber 1.5
anti roll bar 1.2mm

i run 5 cell in front modified 5.5 BL
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Old 10-05-2008, 11:23 AM   #14048
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Here's a more specific question to do with cornering speed. After working out some issues I had most of which was a loose rear end adding a rear sway oddly solved it and the car runs great. On power the car turns great and is very neutral however on hard turns where I can't get on the power until late my off power steering just plows through the turn. What can I do to increase the off power steering or where do I need to play with adjustments
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Old 10-05-2008, 11:39 AM   #14049
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Hi all

I have a TC and was wondering if anyone has tried the PPD lipo base weight and the true balance weight. I ask as the cell slots are designed to take the cell trays so are larger than the normal Cyclone so the weights that go into the cell cuts will be different.

Thanks
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Old 10-05-2008, 11:44 AM   #14050
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyclone speed View Post
my setup on low grip smooth , asphalt outdoor medium tight track:

front:

under camber link 2mm
under toe pivot block 1mm FF and FR
4mm ackerman
shock oil 40w 3 hole piston hole number 1 position
droop over ride height 2mm
ride height 5mm
spool
0.5 toe out
2.5 toe block
camber 1.5
anti roll bar 1.4mm

rear:

under camber link 1mm
under toe pivot block 1.5mm RR and RF
shock oil 40w 3 hole piston hole number 3 position
droop over ride height 3mm
ride height 5.5mm
2.5 toe in
3.0 toe block
camber 1.5
anti roll bar 1.2mm

i run 5 cell in front modified 5.5 BL
It looks pretty good for the most part. What springs and shock positions are you running???

-Korey
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Old 10-05-2008, 11:46 AM   #14051
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shadow102 View Post
Here's a more specific question to do with cornering speed. After working out some issues I had most of which was a loose rear end adding a rear sway oddly solved it and the car runs great. On power the car turns great and is very neutral however on hard turns where I can't get on the power until late my off power steering just plows through the turn. What can I do to increase the off power steering or where do I need to play with adjustments
This is something I fought with a lot when I first got my car. It just felt a little lazy overall compared to cars I've had in the past. I just shortened up my camber links and that made a world of difference. The car is much more reactive, and turns in WAY better off power. Try that, and also maybe loosen up your rear droop screws just a tiny bit.

-Korey
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Old 10-05-2008, 11:49 AM   #14052
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tim fry View Post
Hi all

I have a TC and was wondering if anyone has tried the PPD lipo base weight and the true balance weight. I ask as the cell slots are designed to take the cell trays so are larger than the normal Cyclone so the weights that go into the cell cuts will be different.

Thanks
Thats something Verndog and I have discussed before. He said the main problem with making a baseplate that would actually fit perfectly and fill the slots entirely up would leave a very very small gap between each slot. And I think his cutting bit is bigger than that slot.

Now, we discussed that he could move the parts that drop down into the cell slots, slightly offset, or moved around to make the baseplate stay in one spot. But since it's such a specialized thing he probably wouldn't make any unless there was a huge demand for them.

So if you want them made... GO BUG HIM!!!! Because I want some too

-Korey
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Old 10-05-2008, 11:52 AM   #14053
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In that case does the normal one fit even if its a bit loose?
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Old 10-05-2008, 11:55 AM   #14054
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Default has any one got pic of their novak brushless esc installed

has any one got pic on here with their novak esc installed with their sensor wired neatly install with power cap thxs reggie
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Old 10-05-2008, 12:03 PM   #14055
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
It looks pretty good for the most part. What springs and shock positions are you running???

-Korey
I run silver rear and gold front , 1st hole on shock tower front and 3rd hole on shock tower rear.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
This is something I fought with a lot when I first got my car. It just felt a little lazy overall compared to cars I've had in the past. I just shortened up my camber links and that made a world of difference. The car is much more reactive, and turns in WAY better off power. Try that, and also maybe loosen up your rear droop screws just a tiny bit.

-Korey
I didnt really understand, did you mean i should change my camber links from the 1st position to the seconde position , making the camber links shorte but to keep 1.5 camber.
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