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Old 10-04-2008, 06:07 PM   #14026
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Originally Posted by Verndog View Post
Thank you for the pic. That could possibly interfere with the dowel pin chassis stop I'm using. I would have to press the dowel to no taller then the thin 2mm chassis, or risk a unhappy customer that is running an older servo. Hmmmm ...there are people really using those even though they hang off the chassis that far? I better move the holes.
I'm only running this servo for a quick 2nd as I'm getting rid of all my futaba crap and going back to all KO stuff. Even though it's big there are still some guys running the larger servo's.
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Old 10-04-2008, 06:13 PM   #14027
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Originally Posted by mangoman View Post
The picture from above with the www.teamorion.com on it to me looks wrong. The servo posts are meant to be mounted upright not lieing flat.

Although what is a Cyclone tweak / setup plate? Doesnt have hole on the front for the bumper either?
My mounts have always been laid down. If you look at my pic of the servo mounted in the car the servo would be hanging way off the side if I were to use a standing mount.
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Old 10-04-2008, 07:08 PM   #14028
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Well, 2nd week of running USVTA with my cyclone, and my second broken diff bolt. First week was the rear diff, and the bolt snapped off right at the head of the bolt. This week, the front diff, and it broke off in the T nut. Is this a known weakness? How do I fix it? I can't keep breaking diff bolts one a week. I mean, really, its a 21.5 motor, I can't be overpowering the diff bolts. Already ordered 2 of the TiNi coated diff bolts from Stormer, I hope they are stronger.
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Old 10-04-2008, 07:34 PM   #14029
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Originally Posted by STLNLST View Post
I'm only running this servo for a quick 2nd as I'm getting rid of all my futaba crap and going back to all KO stuff. Even though it's big there are still some guys running the larger servo's.
Futaba crap? LOL What happened?

I love my futaba servos. But I have to agree I love my KO servos for sure!
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Old 10-04-2008, 07:47 PM   #14030
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Originally Posted by Stealth_RT View Post
Well, 2nd week of running USVTA with my cyclone, and my second broken diff bolt. First week was the rear diff, and the bolt snapped off right at the head of the bolt. This week, the front diff, and it broke off in the T nut. Is this a known weakness? How do I fix it? I can't keep breaking diff bolts one a week. I mean, really, its a 21.5 motor, I can't be overpowering the diff bolts. Already ordered 2 of the TiNi coated diff bolts from Stormer, I hope they are stronger.
Yes the cyclone diff bolt is a known weekness. A good fix is to go with the larger screw from associated or switch to the new pro spec diff. A large problem is your diffs are probably set too tight. Also switch to a spool in the front running usvta the car will run better
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Old 10-04-2008, 10:21 PM   #14031
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Originally Posted by BlackedOutREVO View Post
Futaba crap? LOL What happened?

I love my futaba servos. But I have to agree I love my KO servos for sure!

Didn't really care for the feel of the 3PK but hey I'll live....but it was their terrible and inconsistent customer service that made me walk away from ALL of their porducts. I'll fill you in at the track sometime. It's been more than twice for me.
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Old 10-04-2008, 10:31 PM   #14032
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Didn't really care for the feel of the 3PK but hey I'll live....but it was their terrible and inconsistent customer service that made me walk away from ALL of their porducts. I'll fill you in at the track sometime. It's been more than twice for me.
That stinks. I was well taken care of when i sent my servo in. Took a whole 4 days, to ship it there, fix it, and get it back. All for free.

Cyclone still treating you well? Lol you go through alot of cars!
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Old 10-04-2008, 10:43 PM   #14033
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That stinks. I was well taken care of when i sent my servo in. Took a whole 4 days, to ship it there, fix it, and get it back. All for free.

Cyclone still treating you well? Lol you go through alot of cars!

Still with the Cyclone. It's been a great car and is easy to drive. I will stick with it so long as RCMARKET stays in business.
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Old 10-04-2008, 10:48 PM   #14034
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Still with the Cyclone. It's been a great car and is easy to drive. I will stick with it so long as RCMARKET stays in business.
You running 13.5. or mod?
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Old 10-04-2008, 11:02 PM   #14035
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Originally Posted by tomracing View Post
verndog
for the plate did you also find that the TCspec chassis plate is wider then the regular cyclone?
i measured mine at
moorespeed 4.222"
TC spec 4.292"
also the servo mounts on the TC spec are about .106" further forward all other holes line up nicely

i took some pictures send me your email adres and i will show you.
it is just the centre (widest part) that has a difference the front and rear parts are equal again.
i think you can solve the difference by two sets of dowels one with overlap one straight set perhaps?
Too late...just got thru putting in a 15 hour day and got this run completed.

What is the difference between these 2 chassis?? The one I used is a newer Cyclone with the battery tabs that snap into slots. I compared it to another Cyclone chassis that Mike had and the chassis profile matched. I dont locate on the "width" of the chassis, I locate on the angles coming off the width seen below. Also, there is a bit of room in the thru holes and a visual guide profile to line up to. ...Checked the chassis I layed out. Its 4.305 wide so it must be the TC, so this should fit both...I hope.

I'll post pics tomarrow....there are a buttload of holes on this model...49 to be exact (including tapped clamp holes). I'll keep the price the same even though labor costs are 20% higher with all the mount locations.
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Old 10-04-2008, 11:06 PM   #14036
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You running 13.5. or mod?
13.5 from here on out. I don't run mod anymore.
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Old 10-04-2008, 11:12 PM   #14037
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Originally Posted by Verndog View Post
Too late...just got thru putting in a 15 hour day and got this run completed.

What is the difference between these 2 chassis?? The one I used is a newer Cyclone with the battery tabs that snap into slots. I compared it to another Cyclone chassis that Mike had and the chassis profile matched. I dont locate on the "width" of the chassis, I locate on the angles coming off the width seen below. Also, there is a bit of room in the thru holes and a visual guide profile to line up to. ...Checked the chassis I layed out. Its 4.305 wide so it must be the TC, so this should fit both...I hope.

I'll post pics tomarrow....there are a buttload of holes on this model...49 to be exact (including tapped clamp holes). I'll keep the price the same even though labor costs are 20% higher with all the mount locations.

Looks good bro. Go get some sleep now
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Old 10-04-2008, 11:30 PM   #14038
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guys ive got another probleme .
When my car steers , not on the ground , im holding it in my hands , if i put the throtle on when my car steers at full steering , it makes a noise like if it was glitching (but it dosnt glitch) but when i steer but not at full steering it doesnt make that noise.
i.e:
when i steer to the left or right at 50% it doesnt make that noise , 60% no noise 70% no noise , but 80 , 90 and 100 % it makes that funny noise ,
The noise is like if a car was glitching or when two gears dont mesh.
Do any of you have this probleme .
Thanks for any help
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Old 10-04-2008, 11:35 PM   #14039
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Thats the universal joints binding up a little bit I think, which is totally normal. You notice is a lot more when the car is off the ground. Just turn down your steering endpoints a bit and you should be fine.


Vern- That thing looks really cool

-Korey
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Old 10-05-2008, 12:05 AM   #14040
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Hey Korey

I test last night new things for my TC (high grip carpet with rubbertires) and it seems to be worked well. I lowered rollcenter 1.5mm and shorter front link and also chance front pivot block 0 degree so it cooled down front a lot. I was pleased about those changes. Now i`ll test next shockoils and droops.

Now I drove AE50wt front and 40wt rear and i might test thinner oils like 40/30wt with gold/silver springs

How you measured droops? I measured them like wheels off and lay car on the table and take the hight on the top of the axle

I use front 26mm and rear 24mm droops
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