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Old 09-22-2008, 02:49 PM   #13906
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Originally Posted by Lazer Guy View Post
Thank you Billy C.
Yeah.....Xray Steve knows what it is He and I have been trying to decide if having a belt tensioner is something that would help us in any way?? like our belts might last longer ?? I have been telling him it is not supposed to be touching the belt but just above it. I have seen the belt get off to one side and tear up the belt. I think it could be more trouble then it's worth but I'm not sure ??
I have seen the belt skip over the tensioner before but it's not something that happens all the ime. IMO all these cars so called tensioners don't compare to how the tensioner was on the XXX-S That acually put tension on the belt. What we have should be called a guide more than anything. It does keep the belts from flopping some but not like the XXX-S.
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Old 09-22-2008, 03:56 PM   #13907
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Any one know if HPI 80827 MIP Alum CVD will fit the cyclone?
Is that the pro4 stub axels?
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Old 09-22-2008, 10:06 PM   #13908
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You should only really need the belt tensioner for the modified motors (maybe a 10.5) i have mine always fitted out of habbit.

In the faster classes i find it helps to stop the belt from flipping.
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Old 09-22-2008, 10:09 PM   #13909
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Is that the pro4 stub axels?

Yeah those are pro 4 CVDs, they are too long (i think it is long). I have seen reports of people saying they have used pro 4 unis/cvds in a cyclone but they are definitely of a different length and i strongly advise against getting them for a cyclone.

For your reference, the pro 4 does however use the same axles stubs and cross joints as the cyclone though.
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Old 09-22-2008, 10:37 PM   #13910
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given a 6cell setup, i am now switching over to lipo in my cyclone with 17.5 What i want to know is what necessary as far as tuning/setup changes when going from NIMH to LIPO? The car was already balanced with weights with the nimh setup so i figure with lipo i need to re-balance it...anything else?
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Old 09-23-2008, 03:26 AM   #13911
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Originally Posted by mangoman View Post
Yeah those are pro 4 CVDs, they are too long (i think it is long). I have seen reports of people saying they have used pro 4 unis/cvds in a cyclone but they are definitely of a different length and i strongly advise against getting them for a cyclone.

For your reference, the pro 4 does however use the same axles stubs and cross joints as the cyclone though.

I am running the pro4 axles all the way around on my cyclone and have yet to have a problem. All I have to do was to flatten the tip of the right rear axle to provide clearance for the diff nut
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Old 09-23-2008, 05:15 AM   #13912
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Hi guys, can advise what is the effects of different tension for front/rear belts? i.e. tighter front / looser rear belt results in lose of rear traction?
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Old 09-23-2008, 05:43 AM   #13913
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Thank you STLNLST

Quote:
Originally Posted by mangoman View Post
You should only really need the belt tensioner for the modified motors (maybe a 10.5) i have mine always fitted out of habbit.

In the faster classes i find it helps to stop the belt from flipping.
Thank you mangoman
We do run mod outdoors and 10.5 indoors, yes the belts do flip over unless they are very tight so if the tensioner will help we'll give it a try.
Thanks again for the help
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Old 09-23-2008, 07:13 AM   #13914
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No Worries....

My understanding is that a tight belt generates more friction however a loose belt and it will either slip/flip. Someone please correct me if im wrong....

I suspect running the belt too tight will also result in higher wear of the belt, while if the belt is slipping im sure that is also not good for the teeth on the belt.
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Old 09-23-2008, 07:40 AM   #13915
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My 2c.

I run my front belt a with cam notch at the 11 o'clock position (if you are looking at the diff from the drivers side...cam notch pointing to 11 o'clock). This makes the belt somewhat loose and friction free.

My rear belt, however, is set with cam notch at the 3 o'clock, or almost full loose.

I haven't had any problems with the belts flipping over or skipping while running 17.5 or 10.5. If you're going to run mod, I would adjust the cams 2 notches tighter (front, I think, at 9 o'clock, rear at 12, or maybe even 11 o'clock). With the additional power you will skip them for sure.
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Old 09-23-2008, 08:36 AM   #13916
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Originally Posted by TPhalen View Post
My 2c.

I run my front belt a with cam notch at the 11 o'clock position (if you are looking at the diff from the drivers side...cam notch pointing to 11 o'clock). This makes the belt somewhat loose and friction free.

My rear belt, however, is set with cam notch at the 3 o'clock, or almost full loose.

I haven't had any problems with the belts flipping over or skipping while running 17.5 or 10.5. If you're going to run mod, I would adjust the cams 2 notches tighter (front, I think, at 9 o'clock, rear at 12, or maybe even 11 o'clock). With the additional power you will skip them for sure.
Thanks for the info.
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Old 09-23-2008, 09:06 AM   #13917
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TPhalen View Post
My 2c.

I run my front belt a with cam notch at the 11 o'clock position (if you are looking at the diff from the drivers side...cam notch pointing to 11 o'clock). This makes the belt somewhat loose and friction free.

My rear belt, however, is set with cam notch at the 3 o'clock, or almost full loose.

I haven't had any problems with the belts flipping over or skipping while running 17.5 or 10.5. If you're going to run mod, I would adjust the cams 2 notches tighter (front, I think, at 9 o'clock, rear at 12, or maybe even 11 o'clock). With the additional power you will skip them for sure.
whats the cam notch ?
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Old 09-23-2008, 10:24 AM   #13918
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If you look at the bearing holder (also called a cam), there is a notch in it so you can align the left and right together. Thus, a cam notch!
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Old 09-23-2008, 11:22 AM   #13919
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first 1/8 off road and already back at touringcars
can you say: "man on a mission"?
go hara!

source: http://y-trail.de-blog.jp/
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Old 09-23-2008, 11:32 AM   #13920
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TPhalen View Post
If you look at the bearing holder (also called a cam), there is a notch in it so you can align the left and right together. Thus, a cam notch!
oh ok but when you said from the driver side do you mean from the midle of the chassi and and you look outwards or you mean you look from the outside to the inside of the car.
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