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Old 08-27-2008, 09:56 AM   #13651
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OK guys. WCE chassis on a tight, low traction carpet track - rubber tire, 13.5and 10.5 lipo. My question is; spool, 1 way or diff in front??
1ST point use 28-32R with Orion JB Foam insert !
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Old 08-27-2008, 02:10 PM   #13652
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Not yet buddy, I'm waiting for you guys to get them back in stock . I need to get those anyway to build up a foam tire carpet car.

Clint- The outdrives wear freakin awesome!!!!

-Korey
What outdrives are they Korey

And what is your setup with the Hara springs please. Is it for rubber tyers as well as for outside?
Cheers Malc
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Old 08-27-2008, 02:39 PM   #13653
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any one have a TC, WCE OR Blue cyclone for sale?
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Old 08-27-2008, 02:50 PM   #13654
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Originally Posted by TheCoolCanFanMan View Post
What outdrives are they Korey

And what is your setup with the Hara springs please. Is it for rubber tyers as well as for outside?
Cheers Malc
If you need a great asphalt set up go to www.gearchart.com and look at Scotty Barnes Reedy warm up set up. It's awesome and works on high bite and med bite outdoor tracks. The out drivers Korey is talking about are the stock one's that come with the pro-spec diff.
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Old 08-27-2008, 03:35 PM   #13655
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hey does anybody know how tight the diff should be.
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Old 08-27-2008, 04:18 PM   #13656
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Originally Posted by STLNLST View Post
If you need a great asphalt set up go to www.gearchart.com and look at Scotty Barnes Reedy warm up set up. It's awesome and works on high bite and med bite outdoor tracks. The out drivers Korey is talking about are the stock one's that come with the pro-spec diff.
I ment for the TC
Cheers Malc
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Old 08-27-2008, 04:28 PM   #13657
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hey does anybody know how tight the diff should be.
To me you should, while holding the left rear wheel and spur, try and crank over the right rear wheel, and if you can't then your about right, but if you can, keep tightening the diff screw until you cant crank the rear left wheel and should be about there. but the diff needs to be run in for about 30 secs then checked, or it may start to slip, and should be a smooth action
Malc
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Old 08-27-2008, 09:27 PM   #13658
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[QUOTE=B18C Turbo;4779601]just like shaun said, spool for high bite track, and if your track uses wood barriers, forget the spool, if you tap them once the car will explode.

Woa! I might try and fab up a slipper spool.
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Old 08-27-2008, 11:09 PM   #13659
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any one have a TC, WCE OR Blue cyclone for sale?
sent ya a pm!
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Old 08-28-2008, 04:06 AM   #13660
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hi guys,
i just want to say 2 things:
first : thanks to all of you that has helped me to setup my car because i went to practice today and is was great i just had understeer probleme but appart this all your help has been great .

seconde : as i said i had understeer probleme , and i was wondering if any of you could just tell me what could i do to decrease the understeer probleme .
Ive been told that by increasing droop will help but i just wanted your opinion.
thanks again
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Old 08-28-2008, 08:04 AM   #13661
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Originally Posted by cyclone speed View Post
hi guys,
i just want to say 2 things:
first : thanks to all of you that has helped me to setup my car because i went to practice today and is was great i just had understeer probleme but appart this all your help has been great .

seconde : as i said i had understeer probleme , and i was wondering if any of you could just tell me what could i do to decrease the understeer probleme .
Ive been told that by increasing droop will help but i just wanted your opinion.
thanks again

droop should be the easiest and quickest change. Your best bet would be to play with the droop in the rear first. How do you measure your droop and what is it at front and rear currently???
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Old 08-28-2008, 08:37 AM   #13662
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my current droop is 3mm rear and 2.5 front and just to say i had a spool
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Old 08-28-2008, 09:15 AM   #13663
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Originally Posted by cyclone speed View Post
my current droop is 3mm rear and 2.5 front and just to say i had a spool
Try going to 3.5 or 4 in the rear. That will allow more weight to transfer to the front when you let off power giving you a little more steering. I tried this last weekend and it helped the car out a bunch. I started the day with 6mm up front and 6mm in the rear.....once I went to 5mm in the rear the car got better. I bet if I went to 4.5 it would have been 100% perfect rather than 98% I hope this helps you out some. I found that changing droop had a better and quicker effect on the car instead on changing shock positions or camber change. Good luck!!!
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Old 08-28-2008, 09:56 AM   #13664
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Originally Posted by STLNLST View Post
Try going to 3.5 or 4 in the rear. That will allow more weight to transfer to the front when you let off power giving you a little more steering. I tried this last weekend and it helped the car out a bunch. I started the day with 6mm up front and 6mm in the rear.....once I went to 5mm in the rear the car got better. I bet if I went to 4.5 it would have been 100% perfect rather than 98% I hope this helps you out some. I found that changing droop had a better and quicker effect on the car instead on changing shock positions or camber change. Good luck!!!
il try this and let you know . im sory i said 2.5 front and 3mm rear but i had 3mm front and 3mm rear sorry for the mistake . so should i keep 3mm in front ?
thanks for the quick replys
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Old 08-28-2008, 10:52 AM   #13665
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5-6 Cell Cyclone TC Main Chassis back in stock now !
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