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Old 08-22-2008, 05:02 PM   #13591
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I'm looking at the pics of the dope wiring jobs (very nice), just wondering why nobody drills their ball cups so you don't have to pry them of for adjustments?
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Old 08-22-2008, 05:56 PM   #13592
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I'm looking at the pics of the dope wiring jobs (very nice), just wondering why nobody drills their ball cups so you don't have to pry them of for adjustments?
I never really touched mine for setup. But I never felt like doing it
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Old 08-22-2008, 05:58 PM   #13593
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I'm looking at the pics of the dope wiring jobs (very nice), just wondering why nobody drills their ball cups so you don't have to pry them of for adjustments?
I have always drilled the ballcups for easy access. Makes quick roll-center adjustments much easier. Plus, the ballcups stay tighter, longer. Popping them off only a few times adds unwanted slop to the suspension.
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Old 08-22-2008, 06:14 PM   #13594
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Hi Guys

Im going to be running modified 6.5R Novak, do any of you run this motor and if so what gearing do you recommend, Novak state that 8.5 FDR is a starting point but I'm a little worried as I tried the 3.5 FDR on the 17.5 and thermalled the motor. Im running 48 pitch gears as well. I was thinking more like a 8.78 FDR which is a 90 spur and 25 tooth pinion. Would rather hear from the experts before I try this though. Ill be running the car mainly in the evening and sometimes during the day so I guess I will need both gearing options.

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Old 08-22-2008, 06:56 PM   #13595
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Hi Guys

Im going to be running modified 6.5R Novak, do any of you run this motor and if so what gearing do you recommend, Novak state that 8.5 FDR is a starting point but I'm a little worried as I tried the 3.5 FDR on the 17.5 and thermalled the motor. Im running 48 pitch gears as well. I was thinking more like a 8.78 FDR which is a 90 spur and 25 tooth pinion. Would rather hear from the experts before I try this though. Ill be running the car mainly in the evening and sometimes during the day so I guess I will need both gearing options.

Cheers
Adrian
The reason why you thermaled the 17.5 and the reason you will thermal the 6.5 is your fdr calculations are off. It looks like you are calculating using the old 16t pulleys which gives you a 2.4375 internal ratio. Being you have a TC the 18t pulley gives you a 2.18 internal ratio
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Old 08-22-2008, 08:44 PM   #13596
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I have always drilled the ballcups for easy access. Makes quick roll-center adjustments much easier. Plus, the ballcups stay tighter, longer. Popping them off only a few times adds unwanted slop to the suspension.
Yup! Now lets all go and drill our ballcups.
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Old 08-23-2008, 01:22 AM   #13597
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I bought a second car which had them drilled, its better than sliced bread!
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Old 08-23-2008, 05:09 AM   #13598
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I have always drilled the ballcups for easy access. Makes quick roll-center adjustments much easier. Plus, the ballcups stay tighter, longer. Popping them off only a few times adds unwanted slop to the suspension.

What size drill bits are you guys using to drill the ball cups?
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Old 08-23-2008, 05:49 AM   #13599
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What size drill bits are you guys using to drill the ball cups?
I just use a 2mm drill bit. Enough so that the 2mm driver can fit into the ball cup to loosen the ball screws.
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Old 08-23-2008, 07:33 AM   #13600
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The car is ready for battle!!!! I changed back to th Xray springs and I will try to test back to back linear vs progressive springs. Wish me luck........
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Old 08-23-2008, 08:56 AM   #13601
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I use a really small drill bit then a reamer to finish it off.
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Old 08-23-2008, 09:10 PM   #13602
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does anyone know where I can get the TC. it out of stock everywhere?
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Old 08-23-2008, 10:33 PM   #13603
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The car is ready for battle!!!! I changed back to th Xray springs and I will try to test back to back linear vs progressive springs. Wish me luck........
I actually just recently did this. It was HPI Pro 4/linear springs vs the hara/progressive springs.

The hara springs in general make the car feel very very very smooth. The car doesnt change directions quite as fast as the linears, and makes the car feel very stuck. They are a great way to smooth out a car in reaaallllllllyyyy high grip applications I think, because it also keeps the car pretty flat for the the most part.

The linear springs seemed to free up the car overall. They allowed the car to change direction faster and transition much harder. My car had more overall steering with them. I think they would suit lower traction tracks a little better where you need the increased weight transfer.

-Korey
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Old 08-23-2008, 10:50 PM   #13604
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K-Man,

Was this testing done at SIR? SIR is asphalt right now correct? It's been awhile since I've been there.

Do you think you would see the same thing on Carpet Foam and or Rubbers? I've been wondering about the Hara Springs, glad you tested them.

Steve
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Old 08-24-2008, 12:10 AM   #13605
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K-Man,

Was this testing done at SIR? SIR is asphalt right now correct? It's been awhile since I've been there.

Do you think you would see the same thing on Carpet Foam and or Rubbers? I've been wondering about the Hara Springs, glad you tested them.

Steve
Hey Steve,

All this testing was done at SIR (now asphalt). I'm pretty sure my findings will transfer to rubber tire carpet racing. These springs are too soft for any foam tire racing though. Talking to some of my buds at HB, they commented the full Hara spring line falls between HPI silver and HPI Gold (from the pro 4 set). They are just very fine increments of adjustment specifically for some special conditions faced in some situations.

If you notice, they seem to be popular at Yatabe Arena, and the track where the TITC is held every year. Those are known to be very smooth, and ridiculous traction asphalt tracks. So the fact that they smooth out a car makes a lot of sense.

-Korey
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