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Old 08-16-2008, 04:29 AM   #13456
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is this what you are looking for

http://www.hbeurope.com/piw.php?partNo=61329&lang=en
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Old 08-16-2008, 04:38 AM   #13457
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yes!! that would be it...thanks
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Old 08-16-2008, 06:44 AM   #13458
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Actually, out of the box, its setup for stock racing, 13.5 or 11.5 brushless.. 27T or 23T brushed because of internal ratio is lower = 2.175. Maximum spur gear can be used is 105T or get the optional brushless motor mount for open mod racing if you want to use bigger spur up to 110T..

Anybody able to gear for 3.5T brushless without using the optional brushless motor mount? I have the mamba 6900 system and final drive ratio required is around 9.0.. I want to use 116/28 spur/pinion combination..

Grizzle
I ran my mamba 7700 with the stock motor mount with 109/27 for more then a year. I've had the brushless motor mount for more then a year as well and with that 114 has plenty of room. I think you can use 117 and still have room, you will have to take some off the rear top plate. I use 16t pullys for my 7700 outdoor and 18t pullys indoor carpet with my 4600, All with rubber tires.

Last edited by Lazer Guy; 08-16-2008 at 08:08 AM.
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Old 08-16-2008, 08:49 AM   #13459
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could anyone tell me what difference will it make if i use 1.5 toe block front instead of 2.5 .

Also when i measure the droop on my car when its written 5mm on my droop gauge the car has only 2mm of uptravel
Thamks in advance
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Old 08-16-2008, 08:49 AM   #13460
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could anyone tell me what difference will it make if i use 1.5 toe block front instead of 2.5 .

Also when i measure the droop on my car when its written 5mm on my droop gauge the car has only 2mm of uptravel .

Thanks in advance
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Old 08-16-2008, 09:25 AM   #13461
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Originally Posted by cyclone speed View Post
could anyone tell me what difference will it make if i use 1.5 toe block front instead of 2.5

Thanks in advance
The more front sweep you have the more aggresive the steering becomes.
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Old 08-16-2008, 09:55 AM   #13462
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Korey

Ive also tried you setup indoors on carpet on my WCE edition, but ive fitted the new arms and the carpet top deck.
i run the HB C Class body and reduced the droop as CCF man too 5mm all round
1st run i ran sorex 36r like you and found the car a bit understeery on power.
2nd run raised front droop to 6mm and fitted a well used set of sorex 32r, made car bit tail happy but quicker.
3rd run dropped front droop back to 5mm this calmed car down a lot.

Final i realised i had the wrong front arm spacing, with arms forward
changed as per your setup to arms back, this made the car real tail happy and very sideways out of corners.
Maybe you do this due to the less physical grip of the 36r tyre.
Are the TC tower holes the same as the WCE towers.

Richard
Back when we could run any tire we wanted on carpet we never ran Sorex 36's. Set up decided what tire was going to be run.....what I mean by that was 95% of the guys ran Sorex 32's in front and 28 in the rear. This gave the car a very good balance with a oneway installed. If your set up pushed slightly but you didn't want to change anything on the car you changed tire's and ran the same compound front and rear. It was either all 28's or all 32's to get the car to rotate better. I mostly ran hpi red inserts or a Sorex firm A in all my tire's. We have had premounts for so long we forgot what use to be the go to tire insert combo....
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Old 08-16-2008, 10:13 AM   #13463
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Originally Posted by cyclone speed View Post
could anyone tell me what difference will it make if i use 1.5 toe block front instead of 2.5 .

Also when i measure the droop on my car when its written 5mm on my droop gauge the car has only 2mm of uptravel
Thamks in advance
It will increase initial turn, and reduce mid corner steerind when you use a front block with less toe in. When you use one with more it will smooth out entry and increase mid corner steering.

-Korey
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Old 08-16-2008, 10:20 AM   #13464
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The more front sweep you have the more aggresive the steering becomes.
but my feel is first respond , but in Apex lose turn ?
because right turn , your front left tire angle lose not go to right side .
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Old 08-16-2008, 10:22 AM   #13465
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
It will increase initial turn, and reduce mid corner steerind when you use a front block with less toe in. When you use one with more it will smooth out entry and increase mid corner steering.

-Korey
The only bad thing with you being a team driver is that you are gonna catch my post count by the end of the year being so helpful....

We got these cars rocking out here bro. Scotty's set up is dialed. All we want to do now is test the new proptoform body and see how it runs on the car. I have been going back and forth with the regular mazda 6 and the AP stratus. The DNA 2 was my body of choice last year but it turns in way too hard with our current set up. I think I'm only going to run 13.5 for the rest of the year. Mod is hit or mis around here.
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Old 08-16-2008, 10:35 AM   #13466
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
It will increase initial turn, and reduce mid corner steerind when you use a front block with less toe in. When you use one with more it will smooth out entry and increase mid corner steering.

-Korey
in mid corner my feel is lose steering !
so i'm also see to body shell , do you have understeering first ,
if not have will change steering parts ,
pump steering , ackerman , F & R drop ,
i'm alway in bump steering shim 1mm , in mid corner Apex don't lose steering feel & can keep use small steering for more turn .
if in hairpin maybe will have max turn only .
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Old 08-16-2008, 11:02 AM   #13467
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well no it has a bit of oversteer thats wy im trying to find a solution to corner faster without the rear end to spin
Thank you
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Old 08-16-2008, 11:06 AM   #13468
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Originally Posted by cyclone speed View Post
well no it has a bit of oversteer thats wy im trying to find a solution to corner faster without the rear end to spin
Thank you
rear camberlink shim more
or rear 2.5 toe-in
...
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Old 08-16-2008, 11:10 AM   #13469
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rear camberlink shim more
or rear 2.5 toe-in
...
do you mean i should add more shim under the inner pivot and the upper bulkhead

and also do you mean i should have 2.5 toe in or i should have a 2.5 toe block for the rear
thanks you
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Old 08-16-2008, 11:19 AM   #13470
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Originally Posted by cyclone speed View Post
do you mean i should add more shim under the inner pivot and the upper bulkhead

and also do you mean i should have 2.5 toe in or i should have a 2.5 toe block for the rear
thanks you
yes in upper bulkhead 2.5-3mm
which class MOD Or stock ?
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