Hot Bodies Cyclone
Camber should always be set to get the proper wear/contact patch to the track. 2 may have worked for him at his track and track design but it doesn't seem like it's working for you. Another thing could be that you might be running too thin of an insert. I have seen that cause a tire to wear on the inner portion of the tire with increased camber.
Cheers Malc
Just run whatever camber you have to. My track is very high grip and veeerry tight. So we're throwing the car around a lot more than most people would. So somethings might be different than what most other people would run on a typical track.
If you are still having problems with the tires wearing odd, you can also try taking shims out from under the camber links. That will increase negative camber as the supension compresses. This will generally create more grip too, so you will have to make other changes around the car to keep it from becoming too stuck.
If you have a lot of airgap in your tires the really weird wear on the inside of the tire can be hard to avoid. My tires still wear a little funny, but the car drive better with 2 deg of camber in my conditions.
-Korey
If you are still having problems with the tires wearing odd, you can also try taking shims out from under the camber links. That will increase negative camber as the supension compresses. This will generally create more grip too, so you will have to make other changes around the car to keep it from becoming too stuck.
If you have a lot of airgap in your tires the really weird wear on the inside of the tire can be hard to avoid. My tires still wear a little funny, but the car drive better with 2 deg of camber in my conditions.
-Korey
Cheers Malc
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Cheers for your input STLNLST, but the tires are pre-mounts, as that is what we will be using in the KO meeting in a couple of weeks in the UK, any suggestions to get even wear on the setup, as I was very pleased with the way the car handled, but think it would be even better if I could get more tire on the track suface.
Cheers Malc
Cheers Malc
I would suggest going to 1 degree of camber then but I wouldn't go below that. After that I would re-evaluate a couple of things. Look to see if the contact patch is wearing even or is it still not coming into contact with the racing surface? If the wear is even then maybe you have to just live with the inner portion of the tire wearing like that. I can't remeber you saying if it was front or rears but 95% of the time it's the front showing the excessive wear. Is this the case??? You will be dialed by the time the KO race comes around
Malc
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Also....how are you checking camber? I use to do it the lazy way with the RPM camber gauge against the tire's but if the rims are slightly tweaked then you may be putting more than 2 degrees of camber on the car. I used the Hdy gauges and then put my tire's back on a looked to see how off they looked. I was amazed at what I saw. A warped rim, terrible glue job can all lead to different readings if a gauges is used while the tire's are still on. Just throwing some ideas your way. You may not have these issues but it is something to look out for.
Also....how are you checking camber? I use to do it the lazy way with the RPM camber gauge against the tire's but if the rims are slightly tweaked then you may be putting more than 2 degrees of camber on the car. I used the Hdy gauges and then put my tire's back on a looked to see how off they looked. I was amazed at what I saw. A warped rim, terrible glue job can all lead to different readings if a gauges is used while the tire's are still on. Just throwing some ideas your way. You may not have these issues but it is something to look out for.
Malc
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Maybe we should both just get up right now and go throw the RPM gauge in the trash.....LOL Oh wait......I guess I still need it for off road
Malc
i think my rpm gauge is sitting in my snap on box here at work havent used it in ages after the knob came off and i have to use a allen wrench to tighten it.
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which car is better the cyclone or t2 008?
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I apologize if this was discussed before. I have a Cyclone TC and it seems that the rear toe in is not equal on both sides. If this is not and optical illusion, does anyone know what the culpret is:
Chassis misdrilled
Rear suspension blocks mis-aligned
I have tried different rear toe blocks3.0m 2.5 and it doesn't seem to help.
Any ideas
Thanks in advance!
Chassis misdrilled
Rear suspension blocks mis-aligned
I have tried different rear toe blocks3.0m 2.5 and it doesn't seem to help.
Any ideas
Thanks in advance!
What's a good starting gearing point for a 5700kv motor? What should be the final drive ratio?