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Old 08-07-2008, 03:20 AM   #13306
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i think people are going a little over board monting there lipos. they are safer then the sub-c. all you have to do is put them in there and tape them. they do not need a bumper or anything to protect them. i have seen a dart thrown in one and a nail beat in another and guess what no explosion.
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Old 08-07-2008, 03:40 AM   #13307
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i think people are going a little over board monting there lipos. they are safer then the sub-c. all you have to do is put them in there and tape them. they do not need a bumper or anything to protect them. i have seen a dart thrown in one and a nail beat in another and guess what no explosion.
its not really a matter of protection but more of the issue of keeping the pack in one place in the chassis and not having fly out. The battery slots are way too wide for the orion and Core RC cells that i at least know of
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Old 08-07-2008, 05:01 AM   #13308
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Default lipo in place

Yes, the yeah racing lipo have slots in the bottom to simulate the nimh cell battery packs. I cannot use the included battery holder for the nimh cell because the lipo battery case won't fit and won't clear the top deck. If I will not use the battery holder the lipo is sliding all over the chassis.. so I make something to keep the lipo from moving, specially during crashes.. next item will be the battery post and brace..

I'm also planning to install a protection for the motor, same one they have on the tamiya TA05.. I'm afraid a hit on the side on the chassis will damage the motor, specially the sensor wires..

By the way, the rear hub mod using grab screws, to even out the rear toe in, did not work for me. It resulted in vertical slop.. .. I'll just get the aluminum rear hubs instead...
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Old 08-07-2008, 06:55 AM   #13309
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The thing I don't like about clamping my LiPo's in is it tweaks my chassis. I use two servo mounts laying down one in front and one in back of the pack (I had to drill holes for them two) and 3 servo mounts standing up down the middle in the holes that are already there, then tape them in. I use soft pack 6000's so I glued some plastic on the front and back of my LiPo's to keep from denting the packs where it touches the servo mounts and the rear bulkhead, then some foam on the inside and out side on the packs for more protection. I know it sounds like over kill but I only had to do this one time and my packs have no dents anywhere and never move around. I hope you understand what I'm doing
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Old 08-07-2008, 07:02 AM   #13310
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Shoe-Goo a piece of 600 grit sand paper or cut a small piece of a sand paper that have a sticky glue on the back side along these cross piece, your Li-Po pack ain't going no where once you tape them.
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Old 08-07-2008, 09:42 AM   #13311
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Default Droop

A couple questions:

1) When setting droop with droop gages, especially int he front arms, are u guys measuring at the outer hinge pin set screw, or on the arm? By using the set screw, 4mm gives the car 0 uptravel on my car, which is weird.

2) Tamiya or schumacher 3 hole pistons work on the Cyclone shocks ok?
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Old 08-07-2008, 09:46 AM   #13312
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Originally Posted by yyhayyim View Post
A couple questions:

1) When setting droop with droop gages, especially int he front arms, are u guys measuring at the outer hinge pin set screw, or on the arm? By using the set screw, 4mm gives the car 0 uptravel on my car, which is weird.

2) Tamiya or schumacher 3 hole pistons work on the Cyclone shocks ok?
on the arm
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Old 08-07-2008, 09:55 AM   #13313
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on the arm
Thank you sir...trying to get re-aquainted with the Cyclone quirks
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Old 08-07-2008, 09:56 AM   #13314
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Thank you sir...trying to get re-aquainted with the Cyclone quirks
lol, and as far as the shock piston i m pretty sure that I used Tamiya ones on my cyclone a while back.
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Old 08-07-2008, 10:22 AM   #13315
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Tamiya pistons work great so far. The 3 hole pistons are a good alternative to the HB 1.1mm 3 hole pistons that are common on the more recent setups for the car.

-Korey
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Old 08-07-2008, 12:06 PM   #13316
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
Tamiya pistons work great so far. The 3 hole pistons are a good alternative to the HB 1.1mm 3 hole pistons that are common on the more recent setups for the car.

-Korey
Thanks Korey...are u also running 3 hole pistons?
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Old 08-07-2008, 12:14 PM   #13317
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Originally Posted by yyhayyim View Post
Thanks Korey...are u also running 3 hole pistons?
i thought you were running a 416?

i ran the 3hole tamiyas on my cyclone (when i had it.) worked great.
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Old 08-07-2008, 12:36 PM   #13318
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i thought you were running a 416?

i ran the 3hole tamiyas on my cyclone (when i had it.) worked great.
Yes 3 hole is a best choice ,
but Tamiya piston too soft !
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Old 08-07-2008, 02:07 PM   #13319
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Originally Posted by yyhayyim View Post
Thanks Korey...are u also running 3 hole pistons?
I'm running 3 hole pistons with 45wt up front, and 40wt in the rear. The 2 hole pistons I think work better when the grip is really high... but just run 30-35 wt oil. It'll have the same overall feel, but pack up a little faster.

I just think the 3 hole setup is better for most tracks

-Korey
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Old 08-07-2008, 03:29 PM   #13320
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
I'm running 3 hole pistons with 45wt up front, and 40wt in the rear. The 2 hole pistons I think work better when the grip is really high... but just run 30-35 wt oil. It'll have the same overall feel, but pack up a little faster.

I just think the 3 hole setup is better for most tracks

-Korey
You or any of the guys got any setups for the TC yet, as I keep trying things but end up going back to kit setup
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