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Hot Bodies Cyclone

Old 08-06-2008, 08:23 AM
  #13291  
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I know.... I had that coming Always some excuse for crashing into me

Get back to your ugly car thread !!!! There are smart people on this one and you make us look bad.

Last edited by Lazer Guy; 08-06-2008 at 08:33 AM.
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Old 08-06-2008, 08:30 AM
  #13292  
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Originally Posted by xraysteve
to solve all the problem you hot bodies guys have just buy a xray and stop
if we did that we couldn't run most of the lipo's we currently have and by the time we sell all of our HB stuff to get the xray would we get the 008 or the 009 J/K bro
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Old 08-06-2008, 08:32 AM
  #13293  
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The way the x-ray handles it needs to be a lot harder to break otherwise there would be no spare parts
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Old 08-06-2008, 08:51 AM
  #13294  
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i have to look here to learn something. xray thread sucks. you guys are much cooler. you just bought the rong car or maybe i did
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Old 08-06-2008, 11:03 AM
  #13295  
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Originally Posted by Coldn
Hy

I've just known that Serpent made a rear GEAR diff for the S400, for using with stupid motors like 3,5. What do you think about that, is this the future?

http://www.redrc.net/2007/11/serpent...-differential/

if this possible we have a possibility to change cyclone diff to sprint gear diff
You can use RS4 Rear gaer diff
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Old 08-06-2008, 11:09 AM
  #13296  
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I used the AE T5 battery hold down and post with the HPI thumb screws.
AE parts:
31256- graphit battery hold down
31254- hold down post

HPI parts:
86969- thumb screws

You have to drill holes for the post screws and counter sink them. There i an ear on the bottom of the post that sits in the slot that the strapping tape goes through. I had to remove about 1/4 inch from the outside of this so it wouldn't hit the top plate. You will also need a 3mmx16mm set screw to use as mounts. I got these at the local hardware store.
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Old 08-06-2008, 09:26 PM
  #13297  
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Default battery post

Originally Posted by Khador12
I used the AE T5 battery hold down and post with the HPI thumb screws.
AE parts:
31256- graphit battery hold down
31254- hold down post

HPI parts:
86969- thumb screws

You have to drill holes for the post screws and counter sink them. There i an ear on the bottom of the post that sits in the slot that the strapping tape goes through. I had to remove about 1/4 inch from the outside of this so it wouldn't hit the top plate. You will also need a 3mmx16mm set screw to use as mounts. I got these at the local hardware store.
Thanks for the info... just what I need to finally secure the lipo battery.. at the moment I can use strapping tape.. I make a battery guide from plastic kydex (used in tc bumpers) and now the lipo is not moving in place.
Attached Thumbnails Hot Bodies Cyclone-img_3480.jpg   Hot Bodies Cyclone-img_3482.jpg   Hot Bodies Cyclone-img_3483.jpg  
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Old 08-07-2008, 12:38 AM
  #13298  
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my local track is having oval sedan classes (carpet, rubber) and i was wondering if anyone had a good setup to start with, or could give me some tips on what to change.
thanks!
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Old 08-07-2008, 03:20 AM
  #13299  
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i think people are going a little over board monting there lipos. they are safer then the sub-c. all you have to do is put them in there and tape them. they do not need a bumper or anything to protect them. i have seen a dart thrown in one and a nail beat in another and guess what no explosion.
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Old 08-07-2008, 03:40 AM
  #13300  
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Originally Posted by xraysteve
i think people are going a little over board monting there lipos. they are safer then the sub-c. all you have to do is put them in there and tape them. they do not need a bumper or anything to protect them. i have seen a dart thrown in one and a nail beat in another and guess what no explosion.
its not really a matter of protection but more of the issue of keeping the pack in one place in the chassis and not having fly out. The battery slots are way too wide for the orion and Core RC cells that i at least know of
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Old 08-07-2008, 05:01 AM
  #13301  
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Default lipo in place

Yes, the yeah racing lipo have slots in the bottom to simulate the nimh cell battery packs. I cannot use the included battery holder for the nimh cell because the lipo battery case won't fit and won't clear the top deck. If I will not use the battery holder the lipo is sliding all over the chassis.. so I make something to keep the lipo from moving, specially during crashes.. next item will be the battery post and brace..

I'm also planning to install a protection for the motor, same one they have on the tamiya TA05.. I'm afraid a hit on the side on the chassis will damage the motor, specially the sensor wires..

By the way, the rear hub mod using grab screws, to even out the rear toe in, did not work for me. It resulted in vertical slop.. .. I'll just get the aluminum rear hubs instead...
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Old 08-07-2008, 06:55 AM
  #13302  
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The thing I don't like about clamping my LiPo's in is it tweaks my chassis. I use two servo mounts laying down one in front and one in back of the pack (I had to drill holes for them two) and 3 servo mounts standing up down the middle in the holes that are already there, then tape them in. I use soft pack 6000's so I glued some plastic on the front and back of my LiPo's to keep from denting the packs where it touches the servo mounts and the rear bulkhead, then some foam on the inside and out side on the packs for more protection. I know it sounds like over kill but I only had to do this one time and my packs have no dents anywhere and never move around. I hope you understand what I'm doing
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Old 08-07-2008, 07:02 AM
  #13303  
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Shoe-Goo a piece of 600 grit sand paper or cut a small piece of a sand paper that have a sticky glue on the back side along these cross piece, your Li-Po pack ain't going no where once you tape them.
Attached Thumbnails Hot Bodies Cyclone-img_3483.jpg  
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Old 08-07-2008, 09:42 AM
  #13304  
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Default Droop

A couple questions:

1) When setting droop with droop gages, especially int he front arms, are u guys measuring at the outer hinge pin set screw, or on the arm? By using the set screw, 4mm gives the car 0 uptravel on my car, which is weird.

2) Tamiya or schumacher 3 hole pistons work on the Cyclone shocks ok?
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Old 08-07-2008, 09:46 AM
  #13305  
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Originally Posted by yyhayyim
A couple questions:

1) When setting droop with droop gages, especially int he front arms, are u guys measuring at the outer hinge pin set screw, or on the arm? By using the set screw, 4mm gives the car 0 uptravel on my car, which is weird.

2) Tamiya or schumacher 3 hole pistons work on the Cyclone shocks ok?
on the arm
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