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Old 08-05-2008, 01:36 PM   #13276
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Anyone run the new pro diff with plastic outdrives with mod motors yet? I was told not to run the plastic pro diff with mod motors because they will be destroyed...which doesnt really make sense...I've run TC5 with plastic diff with 4.5 motors and they lasted over 5 runs as long keep the rings on.
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Old 08-05-2008, 01:41 PM   #13277
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Anyone run the new pro diff with plastic outdrives with mod motors yet? I was told not to run the plastic pro diff with mod motors because they will be destroyed...which doesnt really make sense...I've run TC5 with plastic diff with 4.5 motors and they lasted over 5 runs as long keep the rings on.
POM diff is no problem in modified, it gives more rear traction.
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Old 08-05-2008, 02:52 PM   #13278
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found this on Red rc, apparently give more rear end grip
Malc

Anybody try the 'high traction suspension arm set' on their car ?
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Old 08-05-2008, 03:45 PM   #13279
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I ran my new TC with a 5.5 and the diff outdrives showed no signs of wear after 5 runs.
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Old 08-05-2008, 04:34 PM   #13280
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Anyone run the new pro diff with plastic outdrives with mod motors yet? I was told not to run the plastic pro diff with mod motors because they will be destroyed...which doesnt really make sense...I've run TC5 with plastic diff with 4.5 motors and they lasted over 5 runs as long keep the rings on.
Yes, the pro spec diff (POM) is no problem at all in Mod. POM is not plastic, it's delrin material. It works better than the aluminum outdrive sometimes.
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Old 08-05-2008, 04:54 PM   #13281
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I tried using the Losi uj driveshafts in the WCE way back in August last year, but the Losi has imperial size bearings, so had to fit the hub carriers to, they did fit and cut out all the chatter, but the steering geometry was wrong as it lost all steering, so never developed it any further, I put a grub screw in both of the holes in the hub, then drilled a hole in between them, but it just felt wrong, shame really, as there was NO chatter on full lock whatsoever, I used to run the JRX-S and Type R and loved the idea of drive-shafts, maybe I will have another go.
What pic number are you saying that it looks like Volker is using them, as I cant see it.
Cheers Malc
You can see it here on Volkers car. The joint is much further out than is needed for a normal UJ.
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Old 08-05-2008, 05:43 PM   #13282
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Anybody try the 'high traction suspension arm set' on their car ?
Yes, works nice for outdoor asphalt, and most drivers in Florida running Cyclones use them, especially on low-med traction outdoor asphalt surfaces. They are less likely to break in severe crashes as well.
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Old 08-05-2008, 05:51 PM   #13283
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POM diff is no problem in modified, it gives more rear traction.
Thanks Stew
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Old 08-05-2008, 07:16 PM   #13284
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Anybody know if the SMC 5000 fit on Hara Edition? If not, what I need to do? Thanks!
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Old 08-05-2008, 07:20 PM   #13285
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Default Cyclone TC

Hey guys, a buddy of mine just bought the cyclone TC. He is putting in a 17.5 motor. We think he needs to be around 3.5 final drive ratio. That means he will need a small spur and big pinion correct? I went on to gearchart.com and found that he will need a 78 tooth spur and 53 or so pinion to be at 3.5 approximately. I know it says that the internal drive ratio is 2.4375, I have seen people changing the center pulley to 16th is this correct and if so what does the internal drive ratio to go after the pulley change? Help is much needed to get his car running with the brushless system he bought. Thanks.
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Old 08-05-2008, 07:30 PM   #13286
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Originally Posted by picco007 View Post
Hey guys, a buddy of mine just bought the cyclone TC. He is putting in a 17.5 motor. We think he needs to be around 3.5 final drive ratio. That means he will need a small spur and big pinion correct? I went on to gearchart.com and found that he will need a 78 tooth spur and 53 or so pinion to be at 3.5 approximately. I know it says that the internal drive ratio is 2.4375, I have seen people changing the center pulley to 16th is this correct and if so what does the internal drive ratio to go after the pulley change? Help is much needed to get his car running with the brushless system he bought. Thanks.
The internal on TC is 2.1666, it comes with 18t center pulley.
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Old 08-06-2008, 12:21 AM   #13287
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Originally Posted by yyhayyim View Post
Yes, works nice for outdoor asphalt, and most drivers in Florida running Cyclones use them, especially on low-med traction outdoor asphalt surfaces. They are less likely to break in severe crashes as well.
What are these high traction arms, do you mean just flip over the ones that come with the car, or the ones that Andy Moor converted?
Cheers Malc
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Old 08-06-2008, 01:30 AM   #13288
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Default battery post

Hi guys... on the new cyclone tc, anybody here is using battery post instead of strapping the battery with tape?

The reason is I have experience the battery tape to be cut in some crashes and I don't want the lipo to be drag all over the race track.

I will be using the yeah racing 3200 lipo with the wires coming on the center of the end of the battery, that also interferes with using strapping tape.

Can I also replace the carbon chassis with the cyclone S tub chassis? because the plastic chassis is also protecting the electronics well and it already have the battery post.
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Old 08-06-2008, 05:22 AM   #13289
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Originally Posted by Besercoe View Post
You can see it here on Volkers car. The joint is much further out than is needed for a normal UJ.
TC upper deck was cut to more soft !
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Old 08-06-2008, 05:25 AM   #13290
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Originally Posted by grizzle View Post
Hi guys... on the new cyclone tc, anybody here is using battery post instead of strapping the battery with tape?

The reason is I have experience the battery tape to be cut in some crashes and I don't want the lipo to be drag all over the race track.

I will be using the yeah racing 3200 lipo with the wires coming on the center of the end of the battery, that also interferes with using strapping tape.

Can I also replace the carbon chassis with the cyclone S tub chassis? because the plastic chassis is also protecting the electronics well and it already have the battery post.
I'm think your Li-Po had problem first !
per charge will more more bigger .
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