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Old 08-04-2008, 09:21 PM   #13261
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Originally Posted by mangoman View Post
http://events.redrc.net/event-galler...ros/?nggpage=5

Anyone think thats a 3.5 rear toe block on the car?
Any ideas as to what brand it is? Development part?
its a jaad rear block, they do a 3.5 0.5 and -0.5 i think, so you can have subtle changes in car width same as is possible with the tamiya
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Old 08-04-2008, 09:23 PM   #13262
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Actually i just noticed the front block is the std block, so he was running 3.5 toe.
Man that track must have been very slippery.
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Old 08-04-2008, 11:52 PM   #13263
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Ahh thanks besercoe, ive never seen one of those before. for 19T up i usually always see 3 degrees on the rear and have wondered whether you would loose much speed with more rear toe.
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Old 08-05-2008, 12:26 AM   #13264
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I tried running 3.5 once and it was not too bad, i went to 4.0 and it was a weapon for the first half of the race, but after that it overheated the rear tires and it was a big effort to drive it
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Old 08-05-2008, 12:40 AM   #13265
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stew Noble View Post
Yes it is caused by mis-molding of the rear hubs, it is a pretty recent isse, your old Pro 4 parts should give equal toe.

There is a fix some of the team are using in here Europe...
First measure the toe of each rear wheel and then use a 2.5mm drill bit to correct the hingepin hole.
It'll make the hingepin hole a bit too big and give slop, so drill two holes in the rear of the hub and put in grub screws, using the original grub screw and the two new ones its possible to tweak the hub to the correct toe using a setup station.

I replace the cyclone tc rear hubs with a pro4 rear hubs which I bought just recently that's why maybe it came from the batch with mis-molding issue.. anyway I will try the fix that you recommend... until I bought an aluminum rear hub.

STLNST... I have yet to run the car I'm still using my old and trusted pro4 here in parking lot racing.. so still have to see if the uneven toe will result in uneven tire wear. Did the uneven toe affect the handling of the car.. say if the other is 3degrees and the other is 2degrees...
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Old 08-05-2008, 07:12 AM   #13266
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Has anybody tried the HPI rear hub 31417 1/R/L with 2* rear pivot block ???
That would still give you 3* rear toe. There is supposed to be some advantage to having 1* at the wheel and 2* at the pivot block but I don't know what that advantage would be for sure ??? I would like to know more about this combination before I try it myself.
Thanks

Last edited by Lazer Guy; 08-05-2008 at 07:25 AM.
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Old 08-05-2008, 07:37 AM   #13267
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lazer Guy View Post
Has anybody tried the HPI rear hub 31417 1/R/L with 2* rear pivot block ???
That would still give you 3* rear toe. There is supposed to be some advantage to having 1* at the wheel and 2* at the pivot block but I don't know what that advantage would be for sure ??? I would like to know more about this combination before I try it myself.
Thanks

Hey Russ, this is something I found on one of the car sites :

Inboard toe-in will give your car more support in the rear. This will give you a car that drives flatter over the rear and will transfer more weight to the front of the car during off-power transition. With outboard toe-in, you will have less support in the rear which will result in less overall rear traction. The car will also hold more of a set over the rear of the car and less initial steering in off-power transition.
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Old 08-05-2008, 08:07 AM   #13268
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grizzle View Post
I replace the cyclone tc rear hubs with a pro4 rear hubs which I bought just recently that's why maybe it came from the batch with mis-molding issue.. anyway I will try the fix that you recommend... until I bought an aluminum rear hub.

STLNST... I have yet to run the car I'm still using my old and trusted pro4 here in parking lot racing.. so still have to see if the uneven toe will result in uneven tire wear. Did the uneven toe affect the handling of the car.. say if the other is 3degrees and the other is 2degrees...
The uneven toe didn't really hurt the performance much. I could only feel it wander on the straight. Even though it wasn't felt in the corners if the toe was even from side to side I now my corner speed would have been even faster. Once corrected I ended up TQ'ing and winning that day. If you do end up going with alum rear hubs don't run the stock ball studs. They break too easy. Upgrade to a pair of titanium (sp) ball studs.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lazer Guy View Post
Has anybody tried the HPI rear hub 31417 1/R/L with 2* rear pivot block ???
That would still give you 3* rear toe. There is supposed to be some advantage to having 1* at the wheel and 2* at the pivot block but I don't know what that advantage would be for sure ??? I would like to know more about this combination before I try it myself.
Thanks
Hara told me to always run rear toe in the pivot blocks. He said no one runs the HB alum 1degree hubs. He said it feels different. I want to try the different hubs myself but the HB hubs are pricey.
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Old 08-05-2008, 08:32 AM   #13269
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Basically when you introduce outboard toe in, it will make the car turn in softer, but rotate a little more mid-exit. When there is no outboard toe, the car will get into the corner really good, and when you get on throttle (usually mid to exit) the car will hook up really good. It will also have really good forward bite to launch off the corner

I like outboard toe when it's a super tight, high traction track like my home track, Seattle Indoor Raceway. But other than that... usually all inboard toe feels better.

-Korey
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Old 08-05-2008, 08:33 AM   #13270
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Thank you jag88
That gives me more to think about.

Thank you STLNLST
Some of the Xray guys think the 1*/ 2* thing works for them is why I asked.
I sure agree with you on the ball studs, I used to break them moving stuff around working on my cars setup.

Thank guys
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Old 08-05-2008, 08:39 AM   #13271
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s anyone tried the losi 10 mm pistons? The #57 is .0430 in and the 1.1 mm are .0433 in. You think if the 1.1 3 hole pistons were used for most of the rubber tire asphalt setups that they would be easyer to get.
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Old 08-05-2008, 08:51 AM   #13272
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Thank you Korey
Thats a great explanation and gives me more to think about.
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Old 08-05-2008, 10:18 AM   #13273
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HB CYCLONE TC Suspension arm back in stock !
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Old 08-05-2008, 11:19 AM   #13274
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Besercoe View Post
I have just been looking at the pics form the Euro's, looks like Volker is running a few different settings, top deck has been split all the way down the centre, with the rear deck seperated. and it also looks like he is running different front driveshafts, look remarkably similar to losi double joints.

Check out the pic on redrc.net coverage
I tried using the Losi uj driveshafts in the WCE way back in August last year, but the Losi has imperial size bearings, so had to fit the hub carriers to, they did fit and cut out all the chatter, but the steering geometry was wrong as it lost all steering, so never developed it any further, I put a grub screw in both of the holes in the hub, then drilled a hole in between them, but it just felt wrong, shame really, as there was NO chatter on full lock whatsoever, I used to run the JRX-S and Type R and loved the idea of drive-shafts, maybe I will have another go.
What pic number are you saying that it looks like Volker is using them, as I cant see it.
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Old 08-05-2008, 12:13 PM   #13275
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found this on Red rc, apparently give more rear end grip
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