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Old 07-18-2008, 08:40 PM   #13036
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Has anyone had a problem where the gear has a bunch of wobble no matter how much you tighten the diff down?
That is not a problem. The pulley is supposed to float.

If you come to PrimeTime Sunday you can see how free mine are.
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Old 07-18-2008, 10:41 PM   #13037
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So it looks like i may not have my gear diff in time for racing this weekend which makes the fact that my ball diff is having some problems all that much worse.

Has anyone had a problem where the gear has a bunch of wobble no matter how much you tighten the diff down?
Yea thats not too much of an issue. It's actually a GOOD thing to let the pulley float. I've had diffs in the past where the tollerences are too tight. When all the parts heat up and expand as you run it, the diff rings actually start to rub the pulley, which makes it feel super tight and still slip. It's a nightmare lol. This diff is AMAZING. Even with the plain ole boring chrome steel diff balls, the durability and performance is exceptional.

On another note... These POM outdrives are awesome. I have 15 packs on my new kit and I dont see one bit of wear.

-Korey
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Old 07-18-2008, 10:55 PM   #13038
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Originally Posted by timmaay View Post
I'm new to sedan racing, and mainly race indoor on carpet (rubber tires, 13.5brushless, tight technical track with med to high grip) . Does anyone have any tips on how to get this car tuned in to the track, gearing, some must have hop-ups, or any other advise (besides practice)?
thanks!
Since you are running rubber tires on carpet, this car will do very well in it's stock form. The kit setup shouldn't be too bad either for just a starter setup. There are a lot of things you can play around with the car out of the box.

The only things right off the bat I would say for high grip carpet is to maybe get a few extra toe blocks so you can reduce the amount of rear toe. a 2.5 and a 2 deg block should do you well. There are also a ton of things you can adjust just by using different thicknesses of shims in certain places (camber link angle, roll center, and wheelbase), and maybe get some different sways and springs to play with. It's just all general tuning stuff.

But honestly, I would try the car as is and make changes from there. If you have any other questions about the car, feel free to ask.

-Korey
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Old 07-18-2008, 11:39 PM   #13039
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Hi Guys,

Has anyone with the Cyclone TC found that they have 4 deg rear toe on one side at the rear of the car and 2 deg on the other using the kit 3 deg rear toe block?

I have tried spare rear uprights, rear toe blocks as well as the front lower suspension mount. All give the same reading on my hudy gauges. It would appear that the chassis is drilled incorrectly
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Old 07-18-2008, 11:45 PM   #13040
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yeah other people have found that problem too. Not sure what the fix is though.
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Old 07-18-2008, 11:49 PM   #13041
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yeah other people have found that problem too. Not sure what the fix is though.
the fix and part numbers are on this page:

Hot Bodies Cyclone
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Old 07-18-2008, 11:53 PM   #13042
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Originally Posted by shadow102 View Post
the fix and part numbers are on this page:

Hot Bodies Cyclone
That wont solve the issue. My problem is not the hubs, its the chassis. Left to right is out 2 deg, regardless of what toe blocks, uprights or otherwise is used.
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Old 07-19-2008, 02:16 AM   #13043
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Originally Posted by Atomix View Post
That wont solve the issue. My problem is not the hubs, its the chassis. Left to right is out 2 deg, regardless of what toe blocks, uprights or otherwise is used.
read into it a little more next time...

"Tamiya 416 rear hubs and the rear outter hinge pins is all you need and a reamer. The hot bodies rear outter hinge pins are 2.5mm and you need to ream the outter part of the arm to 2.6mm to fit the Tamiya hinge pins. Once you do this your toe in worries are over. (Insert clapping and rejoice) Now here's the catch... but it's a good one if you ask me. The Tamiya rear hub is shorter in height than the hotbodies so you will have to use shims in order to get it back to regular height. I added 3mm of shims. The last catch is that the holes on the Tamiya hub are inbetween the what we use for hotbodies. On the Hotbodies we always use the inner hole on the hub. The Tamiya hub has their hole inside the hotbodies inner hole and the Tamiya outter hole is inbetween the Hotbodies inner and outter hole (did I lose anyone in the explaination) So what I ran was the Tamiya ouuter hole (middle of the Hotbodies holes) The car was even better than it was for the Reedy race. I also made some spring changes and moved the rear shocks out a couple of holes. "

tamiya parts
Hinge pin part #53917
Rear hub part#51333
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Old 07-19-2008, 04:07 AM   #13044
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Originally Posted by Syber Serulean View Post
read into it a little more next time...

"Tamiya 416 rear hubs and the rear outter hinge pins is all you need and a reamer. The hot bodies rear outter hinge pins are 2.5mm and you need to ream the outter part of the arm to 2.6mm to fit the Tamiya hinge pins. Once you do this your toe in worries are over. (Insert clapping and rejoice) Now here's the catch... but it's a good one if you ask me. The Tamiya rear hub is shorter in height than the hotbodies so you will have to use shims in order to get it back to regular height. I added 3mm of shims. The last catch is that the holes on the Tamiya hub are inbetween the what we use for hotbodies. On the Hotbodies we always use the inner hole on the hub. The Tamiya hub has their hole inside the hotbodies inner hole and the Tamiya outter hole is inbetween the Hotbodies inner and outter hole (did I lose anyone in the explaination) So what I ran was the Tamiya ouuter hole (middle of the Hotbodies holes) The car was even better than it was for the Reedy race. I also made some spring changes and moved the rear shocks out a couple of holes. "

tamiya parts
Hinge pin part #53917
Rear hub part#51333
Yeah, thanks for the tip

I suggest you take some of your own advice and actually read what I first wrote rather than just jump in type for the sake of it..

Regardless of what hubs I have on the car, Tamiya or otherwise, there is still 2 degrees difference in rear toe left to right. The "fix" above was to address the issue with a moulding fault at HPI/HB, ie faulty rear uprights.

FYI - The chassis is drilled incorrectly. I have measure wheelbase from front left to rear left & front right to rear right (at the axles) and the left side which is giving a reading of 4 degrees is shorter in wheelbase that the reght side of the car giving 2 degrees. Best way I can describe it is that the rear suspension is mounted "skewed" because of poor alignment.
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Old 07-19-2008, 05:59 AM   #13045
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Atomix
I have 2 chassis for my Cyclone, the stock one and a BMI. With both the rear toe was off with new rear HB hubs. With some old pro4 hubs it's not off very much but still not the same on both sides.
I got some 3racing aluminum rear hubs from a friend and now my rear toe is the same on both sides. I'm going to try the new HB aluminum 1* hubs and see what there like next. I'm not saying yours isn't off but that's what I found on mine. The thing I don't understand is if I move the new stock HB-CG rear hubs from the right to the left side it doesn't fix it or change it very much ??????
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Old 07-19-2008, 08:25 AM   #13046
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what is the recomended shock length for the TC, and where do you measure from?

Many thanks

Matt
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Old 07-19-2008, 10:57 AM   #13047
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Originally Posted by Atomix View Post
Yeah, thanks for the tip

I suggest you take some of your own advice and actually read what I first wrote rather than just jump in type for the sake of it..

Regardless of what hubs I have on the car, Tamiya or otherwise, there is still 2 degrees difference in rear toe left to right. The "fix" above was to address the issue with a moulding fault at HPI/HB, ie faulty rear uprights.

FYI - The chassis is drilled incorrectly. I have measure wheelbase from front left to rear left & front right to rear right (at the axles) and the left side which is giving a reading of 4 degrees is shorter in wheelbase that the reght side of the car giving 2 degrees. Best way I can describe it is that the rear suspension is mounted "skewed" because of poor alignment.
Considering the chassis is what you claim is messed up (what are you gonna do, drill a new hole? go for it if you want), the only way to offset it is via hub as my post and Lazer Guy's post so depict. Its worth a try, is it not?
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Old 07-19-2008, 11:00 AM   #13048
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Usually most everyone I know just runs them at 64mm, which is the length of the shock when the bottom shock end is threaded on all the way. Thats measured from the very top of the shock, so the very bottom of the shock.

-Korey
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Old 07-19-2008, 11:25 AM   #13049
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Originally Posted by Syber Serulean View Post
Considering the chassis is what you claim is messed up (what are you gonna do, drill a new hole? go for it if you want), the only way to offset it is via hub as my post and Lazer Guy's post so depict. Its worth a try, is it not?
Why we never heard anything from Team HB see if they know the trick?
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Old 07-19-2008, 12:39 PM   #13050
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When I first got my kit I knew of this problem already from a little reading on here. When I inspected the hubs it was pretty obvious that the mold was a little funky, or they drilled it wrong. The hole for the hinge pin was centered on one side, and then not centered on the other side. Since we use 0 deg rear hubs, it should be a perfectly square drill path. I know Hara was just redrilling/reaming them so they were straight, but it takes some practice to get that right.

I had gone to my local hobby shop and grabbed another set of hubs and inspected them, and they checked out fine. I installed them on the car and the rear toe issue was gone. I also found some 3 racing aluminum rear hub carriers and they also solved the problem. So for me, I didn't have a chassis issue. I had a rear hub issue.

Now, this is just a batch issue as far as I know, but I will try and get someone on here that knows more than I do about what is going on.

-Korey
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