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Old 07-13-2008, 10:07 AM   #12991
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Originally Posted by tomracing View Post
thanks so that was mostly the track then.
so cool hara making a really good comeback lately hope he can keep it up towards the worlds.


jorge mentioned here hpi here:
Ok !
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Old 07-13-2008, 10:29 AM   #12992
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Originally Posted by rc-zombies View Post
Hara spring sets

SS-YELLOW-12.8
S-Grey-13.9
M-Black-15.0
H-PURPLE-16.2
SH-RED-17.3

Cyclone/Pro4 spring set:
273(15.3) #6542 BLUE
302(16.9) #6543 SILVER
320(18.0) #6548 PINK
340(19.0) #6544 GOLD
363(20.3) #6545 WHITE
388(21.7) #6546 YELLOW
400(22.4) #6542 RED

For your additional information,
the Hara springs are all progressive rate and those HPI springs listed are linear. You can't compare with them by only the number.

Thanks,
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Old 07-13-2008, 10:35 AM   #12993
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Originally Posted by Hi-LowBlow View Post
For your additional information,
the Hara springs are all progressive rate and those HPI springs listed are linear. You can't compare with them by only the number.

Thanks,
yes good tips !
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Old 07-13-2008, 10:54 AM   #12994
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Anybody stateside carry the Hara springs i need to buy a set or two but cant stomach the $16 shipping fee from HK
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Old 07-13-2008, 11:12 AM   #12995
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Anybody stateside carry the Hara springs i need to buy a set or two but cant stomach the $16 shipping fee from HK
UK Mirage
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Old 07-13-2008, 02:20 PM   #12996
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Default Help After Cyclone Tc first run today

Hi Guys got a few questions regarding TC after first run today.

1 the shocks leak after 2 runs they lost all rebound and shaft was covered with oil car bottoms out.

2 the screws in the chassis keep coming loose they came out and the blocks moved and hinge pins fell out.

3 after setting up according to book i have more steering to the right and very twitchy.

4 plenty of steering going into corners but lack of steering mid and exit of corner.

5 Pro diff very smooth for first run but very gritty after that.

Any help on any of these would be appreciated as this is the first time I have run a cyclone.
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Old 07-13-2008, 02:44 PM   #12997
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Use some blue loctite on the hinge pin holders...check them before or after every race to make sure they are tight

Have you had your car on a setup board yet? The steering being twitchy sounds like its all in the setup of the car between your ackerman setting, Caster, and toe settings. Also it sounds like your radio also needs to be setup per the car.
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Old 07-13-2008, 03:00 PM   #12998
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Make sure your EPA is setup properly as if it goes to far it can hit the swaybar holder and get stuck for a short amount of time.
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Old 07-13-2008, 03:14 PM   #12999
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kev-h View Post
Hi Guys got a few questions regarding TC after first run today.

1 the shocks leak after 2 runs they lost all rebound and shaft was covered with oil car bottoms out.

2 the screws in the chassis keep coming loose they came out and the blocks moved and hinge pins fell out.

3 after setting up according to book i have more steering to the right and very twitchy.

4 plenty of steering going into corners but lack of steering mid and exit of corner.

5 Pro diff very smooth for first run but very gritty after that.

Any help on any of these would be appreciated as this is the first time I have run a cyclone.

1.) Check to make sure the bottom of the shock body didnt come loose. Anything with the twist on shock bottom has a tendency to do that. They need to be pretty darn tight. Also make sure the bladder/diaphram on the top of the shock was seated correctly when you tighten the cap down. I've seen some shocks other that the Hot Bodies ones where the bladder slips off and goes inside the shock body!

2.) Just make sure you use a little tiny bit of blue locktite if it keeps backing out on you.

3.) The idea here is to make sure the servo arm is pointing straight up (90 degree to the chassis) and have the car going straight. I always get the servo arm as close as possble, then use subtrim (not normal trim... it's a little different) to get the servo arm perfect.

Then I adjust the turnbuckle going from the servo arm to the steering assembly on the car so that points perfectly straight. After that adjust your main steering turnbuckles (the ones that go out to the steering knuckles) so those point thew wheels perfectly straight. Those links should be pretty equal left to right as well.

That should give you geometry that will allow you to use almost equal steering endpoints left to right. I always drive slow circles with my car and take note if the circles have equal diameter. That will tell you if your steering endpoints need to be adjusted.

4.) Setup changes you could try would be a little bit less rear toe in, laying down the front shocks, slightly softer front spring, or go to 1mm of shims under the inside of the front camber link instead of the 2mm shim. Try each one of those changes one at a time and see what you like best.

5.) That diff is amazing... You need to make sure it stays clean though. They will only get gritty really fast is the diff is too loose or you are running on really dusty conditions. If after you clean and relube it still feels gritty, I would replace the main diff balls with some carbide or good quality Ceramic Nitride diff balls and flip the diff rings over so they are fresh again. That should help prolong the time needed to rebuild them. Make sure the thrust bearing is in good shape as well.

Hope that helps!!! Wow... that was a lot of writing.

-Korey
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Old 07-13-2008, 03:21 PM   #13000
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Cheers guys
Korey: do you use the thrust bearing that came with the kit or the prebuilt bearing as made by rc hobeys.

kev
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Old 07-13-2008, 03:31 PM   #13001
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Just ordered the stuff to run a rear gear diff i'll let you guys know how it works out compared to the ball diff
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Old 07-13-2008, 03:45 PM   #13002
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The one peice setups are definently easier to work with in my past experiences with other cars. But I personally haven't tried the ones that you are talking about in the cyclone though. I don't think anyone makes one to fit the new 2.6mm diff screw that comes in the pro diff setup.

-Korey
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Old 07-13-2008, 03:55 PM   #13003
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Hi Guys got a few questions regarding TC after first run today.

1 the shocks leak after 2 runs they lost all rebound and shaft was covered with oil car bottoms out.

2 the screws in the chassis keep coming loose they came out and the blocks moved and hinge pins fell out.

3 after setting up according to book i have more steering to the right and very twitchy.

4 plenty of steering going into corners but lack of steering mid and exit of corner.

5 Pro diff very smooth for first run but very gritty after that.

Any help on any of these would be appreciated as this is the first time I have run a cyclone.


kev-h

problem one I have this prob to mine leak from the tops and from the bottoms even tried new o rings and bladders.

problem two thread lock sorts this as already said

problem three atv setting on the transmitter.

problem four I have the same problem car goes in nice but then understeers mid and exit of corner... if anyone else can help...

problem five get yourself the covers really are good.

Thanks
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Old 07-13-2008, 07:39 PM   #13004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
3.) The idea here is to make sure the servo arm is pointing straight up (90 degree to the chassis) and have the car going straight. I always get the servo arm as close as possble, then use subtrim (not normal trim... it's a little different) to get the servo arm perfect.
Actually you should have it like in the hara build notes, dont remember the link.
The servo horn and the turnbuckle should be at 90degrees to each other. That way as the servo rotates it pulls right and left evenly.
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Old 07-14-2008, 12:29 AM   #13005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mangoman View Post
Actually you should have it like in the hara build notes, dont remember the link.
The servo horn and the turnbuckle should be at 90degrees to each other. That way as the servo rotates it pulls right and left evenly.
http://www.miragejapan.co.jp/ or http://www.miragejapan.co.jp/AH/sett...cyclone603.jpg
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