Originally Posted by kev-h
Hi Guys got a few questions regarding TC after first run today.
1 the shocks leak after 2 runs they lost all rebound and shaft was covered with oil car bottoms out.
2 the screws in the chassis keep coming loose they came out and the blocks moved and hinge pins fell out.
3 after setting up according to book i have more steering to the right and very twitchy.
4 plenty of steering going into corners but lack of steering mid and exit of corner.
5 Pro diff very smooth for first run but very gritty after that.
Any help on any of these would be appreciated as this is the first time I have run a cyclone.
1.) Check to make sure the bottom of the shock body didnt come loose. Anything with the twist on shock bottom has a tendency to do that. They need to be pretty darn tight. Also make sure the bladder/diaphram on the top of the shock was seated correctly when you tighten the cap down. I've seen some shocks other that the Hot Bodies ones where the bladder slips off and goes inside the shock body!
2.) Just make sure you use a little tiny bit of blue locktite if it keeps backing out on you.
3.) The idea here is to make sure the servo arm is pointing straight up (90 degree to the chassis) and have the car going straight. I always get the servo arm as close as possble, then use subtrim (not normal trim... it's a little different) to get the servo arm perfect.
Then I adjust the turnbuckle going from the servo arm to the steering assembly on the car so that points perfectly straight. After that adjust your main steering turnbuckles (the ones that go out to the steering knuckles) so those point thew wheels perfectly straight. Those links should be pretty equal left to right as well.
That should give you geometry that will allow you to use almost equal steering endpoints left to right. I always drive slow circles with my car and take note if the circles have equal diameter. That will tell you if your steering endpoints need to be adjusted.
4.) Setup changes you could try would be a little bit less rear toe in, laying down the front shocks, slightly softer front spring, or go to 1mm of shims under the inside of the front camber link instead of the 2mm shim. Try each one of those changes one at a time and see what you like best.
5.) That diff is amazing... You need to make sure it stays clean though. They will only get gritty really fast is the diff is too loose or you are running on really dusty conditions. If after you clean and relube it still feels gritty, I would replace the main diff balls with some carbide or good quality Ceramic Nitride diff balls and flip the diff rings over so they are fresh again. That should help prolong the time needed to rebuild them. Make sure the thrust bearing is in good shape as well.
Hope that helps!!! Wow... that was a lot of writing.