Andrew_Carter

Not much at the moment,ive got plenty of old rear hubs that seem to be fine so lets hope they last a while! Im not into alu parts atall.

TheCoolCanFanMan

I have a WCE Clone, IT has 3 degree toe on the left and 2 on the rite, I changed the right hub carrier, and now I have around 2.8 on the right. Any one tried the Losi rear hubs, as there seems to be this prob with the hubs, could we not use a 0 degree hub on the left and a 1 degree hub on the right? maybe a stupid question but hey
Cheers Malc TCCFM

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

This will make you rear toe what ever it is suppose to be. If you have your 3 degree block on then you get 3 degrees per side. If you have your 2 degree block on the you get 2 degrees per side. All of the rear toe in problems are in the molded blocks. After I do my last test on Saturday I will post results and the two part numbers needed to do the modification.

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

wait until Saturday bro.......I got ya covered

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

[QUOTE=mangoman;4510830]
But now that means when you buy a knuckle you are effectively getting charged double cause the rear hub is useless. Although they should be sold seperately anyway as knuckles get replaced twice as fast as the rear hub. QUOTE]


I agree with you on that one. The Hotbodies car has been different from every other car I have been use to. I'd like to have 2 knuckles when I purchase one pack rather than one knuckle and one rear hub. I have no clue what I'm going to do with all the rear hubs I currently have though. I might just put them on ebay.

jag88

iTrader: (1)

[QUOTE=STLNLST;4511399]

Personally I think the knuckles are just as useless. Look at them the wrong way and they crack....

Itchy

iTrader: (1)

Thanks mate

KHoff7

iTrader: (5)

Use the xray knuckles they are stronger and allow you to dial OUT ackerman more than the hotbodies ones if needed.

aviaar

mangoman - you seem to think I know absolutely nothing or that you know everything. I have been out of the hobby for a few years now, but before I raced with a TC3 racer (not Team or FT edition) and I was able to keep up with the guys running FT cars or cars with parts from Integy and Penguin. I always thought it was more about driver experience and track familiarity rather than car kit/bling/electronics etc. I figured most of the reason the top drivers run the top kits because the manufacturers want people to be interested in those cars instead of the cheaper cars so that they can make more profit. Sure, some parts need to be more durable than others if you are going to run faster motors (lower turns) or if you are going to pump more voltage to the motor (more battery cells). But other parts, say Aluminum turnbuckles upgraded over steel turnbuckles, seem more like a way to make more money for the rc companies (saves weight but the motors pump out more than enough power anyway).

Thanks for the help, but in the future, give me and others the benefit of the doubt. Consider this: in the same amount of words or less that it took you to tell me I shouldn't run a faster motor if I didn't know what you meant, you could have explained what you meant...

mangoman

iTrader: (11)

Well you were commenting without being very specific. And people who have been racing for a while usually know that if you want to run modified motors buying an entry level kit is not usually the go.

Unless you are specific it is very difficult to give an answer to a general question. Its like saying someone please give me the gearing of a motor which is green.

I mean you should have noticed in your research that the Cyclone S has dog bones and not universals.
Also if you havent been in the hobby for three years the top class of motors these days do at least double the amount of wear to cars than the top motors back then.

TomB

iTrader: (10)

this issue with the rear hub is not unique to the cyclone. my old t2 xray had it, and so did the t1 fk 04 kit. it must be really difficult to manufacture these parts with high tolerance i guess

A Ilievski

iTrader: (39)

Quick question for yous.

With the new pro diff. Are the bearings that go over the out drives same size as the ones from the older diffs?

jimbobmahua

Yes the outdrive bearings are exactly the same size.
It is only the diff balls (have become bigger) and thrust balls (become smaller)that have changed.

RC MARKET

iTrader: (12)

Syber Serulean

iTrader: (28)

hey guys i have a setup sheet for you to look at...

the thing is that i bought my car used and it came in the mail the afternoon before a big race (HPI Challenge West Coast Regional) and i had no time to do setup work, just equip it and get it ready...

i drove it it worked amazingly and i won one of my qualifiers and placed 2nd in the other. Managed a 5th place qualification in the A-Main and ended up placing 5th (in the Electric Sport class which is 19t/10.5, neither of which ive ever raced since ive only raced stock/13.5). I was so impressed that i left it the way it was and never changed it but now i finally wrote down a bunch of the stuff incase i need to change it and go back...only problem is right now i dont have time to open up the shocks and see what pistons they are and i dont even know what shock fluid is in there. Regardless, maybe you guys can work off what i have and see if its good for whats there?

I also had to eyeball the measurements in mm for spacers/washers/etc. Yeah i know, sloppy...but whatever lol.

pardon the writing for my springs. I asked my brother to write the setup down while i was at work and i forgot to tell him the cyclone spring colors work different than his tc5's...oh well.


ok that didnt work too well...

anyone got a link where i can possibly input all my stuff to a setup sheet online?