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Old 05-08-2008, 01:36 PM   #12241
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another week and two days and I get to race again......LOL
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Old 05-08-2008, 01:52 PM   #12242
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Try increasing the ackerman from 2.5 to 4, and or change the front pivot block from the 1 to a 1.5 or 2, try it and see which one works good for you.

Also you could try raiseing the front rear block from the 1.5mm spacer to a 2mm giving the car some anti-dive. I'm going to be trying this change this weekend.
I recently purchased a Cyclone S to race in some of the "spec class" events they hold here in SoCal. Anyway, I've been meaning to ask a stupid question, what do the pivot blocks do ? The S comes standard with 0 in front and 3 in the rear. My assumption was (or is) that the 3 in the rear is toe in, however the front toe can be changed via tie rods ..... right ? If so, what is 0 do or for that matter what will a 1.5 or 2 do ? Thanks.
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Old 05-08-2008, 02:13 PM   #12243
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you're dealing with arm sweep with the front blocks...reducing the track width. usually a narrower track width at the front can make the car feel twitchy.
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Old 05-09-2008, 02:41 AM   #12244
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On the front a higher number pivot block will make the steering a little more aggressive. You shouldnt need it on the Cyclone S as it has more flex than the full cyclone and thus should have more grip anyway.


At the rear 3.0 toe in is pretty standard on the cyclone. As the toe in decreases you effectively get more straight line speed/acceleration, however, as it decreases the car will not hold corners as well.

I find with a 540 motor on asphalt 1.5 - 2.0 is about optimal with stock 2.0-2.5 maybe manageable. After that anything else i would leave at 3.0 including a 13.5 brushless motor.
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Old 05-09-2008, 04:04 AM   #12245
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott B View Post
OK I got my winning 13.5 setup from the REEDY Warmup race up on gearchart.com..

http://www.gearchart.com/setup/setup...RMUP_SETUP.pdf

Any Questions let me know..
Hey Scott - don't know if you noticed this or not, but you FDR is wrong...

The sheet doesn't take into account for your 18t center pulleys and it gives the internal ratio of 2.4375 (16/39) instead of the "proper" 2.1667 (18/39)

Sorry man...Just figured I'd let you know
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Old 05-09-2008, 05:15 AM   #12246
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott B View Post
Try increasing the ackerman from 2.5 to 4, and or change the front pivot block from the 1 to a 1.5 or 2, try it and see which one works good for you.

Also you could try raiseing the front rear block from the 1.5mm spacer to a 2mm giving the car some anti-dive. I'm going to be trying this change this weekend.
Thanks again Scott ...I will try the changes you suggested.

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I ran the 0* front block on carpet and my car was very twitchy, I added 1mm wheel spacers to make the front wider and my car was not twitchy at all and drove very nice. I had to keep the wheel nuts tight with the 1mm spacers.
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Old 05-09-2008, 06:22 AM   #12247
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Originally Posted by k_bojar View Post
Hey Scott - don't know if you noticed this or not, but you FDR is wrong...

The sheet doesn't take into account for your 18t center pulleys and it gives the internal ratio of 2.4375 (16/39) instead of the "proper" 2.1667 (18/39)

Sorry man...Just figured I'd let you know

Ya I know, I could type in the new D/R in the box put it would just change back to the stock ratio.

That's why I noted it on the setup sheet.

My final D/R that I ran was 4.6 with a Novak SS pro 13.5. 100/47
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Old 05-09-2008, 06:23 AM   #12248
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Thanks again Scott ...I will try the changes you suggested.

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I ran the 0* front block on carpet and my car was very twitchy, I added 1mm wheel spacers to make the front wider and my car was not twitchy at all and drove very nice. I had to keep the wheel nuts tight with the 1mm spacers.
Make sure you adjust your front toe after changing the front pivot block.

Were you running rubber or foam tires??

Also oneway, diff or spool??
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Old 05-09-2008, 08:49 AM   #12249
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Thanks again Scott ...I will try the changes you suggested.

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I ran the 0* front block on carpet and my car was very twitchy, I added 1mm wheel spacers to make the front wider and my car was not twitchy at all and drove very nice. I had to keep the wheel nuts tight with the 1mm spacers.
Sometimes the 0 block makes more initial turn in especially when you have lower roll center in the front.
I would recommend you to move the spacers on the inner hinge pins to make the wheel base shorter (front a-arms will move toward back) when you have 0 block in the front. This will reduce the front drive shaft (cvd) sweep angle.

I hope it helps.
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Old 05-09-2008, 12:44 PM   #12250
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Wow ... thanks for all the input on pivot blocks and their application. I'll be racing this car this weekend and will try some of these suggestions. Again, thank you !
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Old 05-09-2008, 12:48 PM   #12251
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Make sure you adjust your front toe after changing the front pivot block.

Were you running rubber or foam tires??

Also oneway, diff or spool??
This is a "bone stock" spec class that HB is running here in SoCal. No alterations are allowed other than gearing. As a matter of fact you have to run their super swift 27T Saturn motor and grippy Gumball tires

That said, it's running a diff and rubber tires.

Thanks again for the help.
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Old 05-09-2008, 06:05 PM   #12252
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Originally Posted by Matt Pocknell View Post
I would start with thickening your oil, try 45-50wt.
Ive always liked 40wt oil, 30wt when i tried it felt too twitchy especially on the front.
30 wt in the rear shocks should be ok though, and ive seen it a few times on setup sheets.
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Old 05-09-2008, 09:27 PM   #12253
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Make sure you adjust your front toe after changing the front pivot block.

Were you running rubber or foam tires??

Also oneway, diff or spool??
Thank you
I will make sure my toe is right.

I was running rubber with a diff on some layouts and a spool on others. My Cyclone had so much steering on carpet I had to use a 1.6 sway bar and 0* front block to stop it from hooking coming out of corners on power. I TQed and won every race after that. The xray guys went down working hard on there cars, my Cyclone ruled the carpet this winter in 10.5 rubber and I had fun doing it.
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Old 05-10-2008, 08:55 PM   #12254
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Originally Posted by Lazer Guy View Post
Thank you
I will make sure my toe is right.

I was running rubber with a diff on some layouts and a spool on others. My Cyclone had so much steering on carpet I had to use a 1.6 sway bar and 0* front block to stop it from hooking coming out of corners on power. I TQed and won every race after that. The xray guys went down working hard on there cars, my Cyclone ruled the carpet this winter in 10.5 rubber and I had fun doing it.
Lazer guy if you have too much steering try removing the ackerman shims under the side by side ball studs on the servo saver.
That i believe should reduce initial turn in.
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Old 05-10-2008, 11:04 PM   #12255
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lazer Guy View Post
Thank you
I will make sure my toe is right.

I was running rubber with a diff on some layouts and a spool on others. My Cyclone had so much steering on carpet I had to use a 1.6 sway bar and 0* front block to stop it from hooking coming out of corners on power. I TQed and won every race after that. The xray guys went down working hard on there cars, my Cyclone ruled the carpet this winter in 10.5 rubber and I had fun doing it.
wish i coudl get that much steering, what springs/oil are you running? ride height?
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