SammyZ

iTrader: (138)

the surface was 80 degrees, but it still shoulda been close, the car was scary to drive with the way it would drift.

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

driving on the un treated surface would require a slightly different set up. Carpet is normally med to high grip depending on how much traffic the race has. Unswept and untreated is the reason why your car felt like a drift car.

Lazer Guy

iTrader: (1)

Scott B
Thanks for posting your setup.... I'm going to try it in mod and see how it works for me this Sunday. I know it's for 13.5 but I am using a 4600MM (a little more than a 10.5) to start my asphalt mod season with. My layout has many tight turn, is there something I should change or should I try it like it is first ????
Thanks again

Scott B

iTrader: (47)

Try increasing the ackerman from 2.5 to 4, and or change the front pivot block from the 1 to a 1.5 or 2, try it and see which one works good for you.

Also you could try raiseing the front rear block from the 1.5mm spacer to a 2mm giving the car some anti-dive. I'm going to be trying this change this weekend.

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

I'm going back to our standard set up. It was consistent and always kept me in the hunt for the win. I tested alot of set up's in two days and find myself sticking with the regular.

SammyZ

iTrader: (138)

what happens when you raise the roll centers?

Marcos.J

iTrader: (239)

higher roll center will keep the car from rolling (leaning), making the car react faster and have more traction. On low bite outdoor tracks with
rubber tires a high roll center will get you the best results.

Matt Pocknell

I would start with thickening your oil, try 45-50wt.

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

another week and two days and I get to race again......LOL

inconceivable

iTrader: (3)

I recently purchased a Cyclone S to race in some of the "spec class" events they hold here in SoCal. Anyway, I've been meaning to ask a stupid question, what do the pivot blocks do ? The S comes standard with 0 in front and 3 in the rear. My assumption was (or is) that the 3 in the rear is toe in, however the front toe can be changed via tie rods ..... right ? If so, what is 0 do or for that matter what will a 1.5 or 2 do ? Thanks.

dstyles

you're dealing with arm sweep with the front blocks...reducing the track width. usually a narrower track width at the front can make the car feel twitchy.

mangoman

iTrader: (11)

On the front a higher number pivot block will make the steering a little more aggressive. You shouldnt need it on the Cyclone S as it has more flex than the full cyclone and thus should have more grip anyway.


At the rear 3.0 toe in is pretty standard on the cyclone. As the toe in decreases you effectively get more straight line speed/acceleration, however, as it decreases the car will not hold corners as well.

I find with a 540 motor on asphalt 1.5 - 2.0 is about optimal with stock 2.0-2.5 maybe manageable. After that anything else i would leave at 3.0 including a 13.5 brushless motor.

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

Hey Scott - don't know if you noticed this or not, but you FDR is wrong...

The sheet doesn't take into account for your 18t center pulleys and it gives the internal ratio of 2.4375 (16/39) instead of the "proper" 2.1667 (18/39)

Sorry man...Just figured I'd let you know

Lazer Guy

iTrader: (1)

Thanks again Scott ...I will try the changes you suggested.

inconceivable
I ran the 0* front block on carpet and my car was very twitchy, I added 1mm wheel spacers to make the front wider and my car was not twitchy at all and drove very nice. I had to keep the wheel nuts tight with the 1mm spacers.

Scott B

iTrader: (47)

Ya I know, I could type in the new D/R in the box put it would just change back to the stock ratio.

That's why I noted it on the setup sheet.

My final D/R that I ran was 4.6 with a Novak SS pro 13.5. 100/47