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Old 04-27-2008, 08:23 AM   #12091
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are you using the delrin type outdrive? or the aluminum ones? thanks yeah i noticed that the screw is on the other side when i read the manual btw, are you using loctite on the lock/nut/
My bad....I forgot to state that I'm using the alum out drives instead of the delrin. I'm sure the delrin will work but after running the TC5 I'm a little worried about running anything other than alum or steel in the rear. If my memory is correct I did use just a drop of loctite.
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Old 04-27-2008, 07:51 PM   #12092
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http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/in...2-V9-Color.jpg

Refer to the section for Pro 4 springs....

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Old 04-28-2008, 04:53 AM   #12093
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My bad....I forgot to state that I'm using the alum out drives instead of the delrin. I'm sure the delrin will work but after running the TC5 I'm a little worried about running anything other than alum or steel in the rear. If my memory is correct I did use just a drop of loctite.
Running the old diff i find the delrin is ok, but you cant do it up as tight as you would with aluminium diff halves.
This is PROBABLY good if you have a habit of snapping diff bolts but for mod you would be better off with aluminium diff halves. The delrin also wears a groove in it quite quickly with mod, you would be better off buying blades at $10 a pair than delrin diff halves at $30 a set.
For those on a diet the delrin is a touch lighter than the aluminium.
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Old 04-28-2008, 06:05 AM   #12094
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Running the old diff i find the delrin is ok, but you cant do it up as tight as you would with aluminium diff halves.
This is PROBABLY good if you have a habit of snapping diff bolts but for mod you would be better off with aluminium diff halves. The delrin also wears a groove in it quite quickly with mod, you would be better off buying blades at $10 a pair than delrin diff halves at $30 a set.
For those on a diet the delrin is a touch lighter than the aluminium.
The alum diff halfs are cheaper than the delrin right? They also last longer so it's a no brainer to go with them.
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Old 04-28-2008, 06:40 AM   #12095
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The alum diff halfs are cheaper than the delrin right? They also last longer so it's a no brainer to go with them.
ok i will just put the aluminum. do you put anti wear grease at the end of the dogbone where you put the blades or in the blades? i already changed 3 aluminum outdrives in just 4 months of the old diff i hope the new ones are stronger hehe..
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Old 04-28-2008, 06:54 AM   #12096
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Ive found that for the old diff the cost of the aluminium diff halves is about the same as the delrin however you get blades with the aluminium diff halves.

It is important that you replace the blades before they wear out as if you start to get wear on the aluminium it will increase wear on new blades that get swapped in. Im really cheap and blades are expensive, so i have a tendency to wear out the diff halves because i leave the changing of the blades till too late.

I think the blade starts to wear on half first so you might be able to flip it over if its not too badly worn out.

Actually just thinking now, the diff halves i have have a lot of scoring around where the dogbones meet the diff halves. Although i think thats because i let the blades wear out and dig holes into the diff halves, making it then difficult for me to get the bearings off.

Im just installing some aluminium ones now, and i was thinking about putting anti-wear grease on blades where they meet the diff halves. Dont bother putting it on the dog bones im pretty sure it doesnt wear on the blades there.
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Old 04-28-2008, 07:07 AM   #12097
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Ive found that for the old diff the cost of the aluminium diff halves is about the same as the delrin however you get blades with the aluminium diff halves.

It is important that you replace the blades before they wear out as if you start to get wear on the aluminium it will increase wear on new blades that get swapped in. Im really cheap and blades are expensive, so i have a tendency to wear out the diff halves because i leave the changing of the blades till too late.

I think the blade starts to wear on half first so you might be able to flip it over if its not too badly worn out.

Actually just thinking now, the diff halves i have have a lot of scoring around where the dogbones meet the diff halves. Although i think thats because i let the blades wear out and dig holes into the diff halves, making it then difficult for me to get the bearings off.

Im just installing some aluminium ones now, and i was thinking about putting anti-wear grease on blades where they meet the diff halves. Dont bother putting it on the dog bones im pretty sure it doesnt wear on the blades there.
I am also cheap about diff blades, the solution is TC5 diff blades, its 3-4$ for like 4 sets of blades, you just have to use your body reamer and ream the holes out, because the HB's CVD pins are bigger

But for the new diff, it might of changed, I dont think so.... STLNLST???
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Old 04-28-2008, 08:13 AM   #12098
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Dumb question but......Are you guys using a fixed or one way center pulley with a spool in the front?
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Old 04-28-2008, 08:20 AM   #12099
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Dumb question but......Are you guys using a fixed or one way center pulley with a spool in the front?
With the front spool, use the fixed center pulley
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Old 04-28-2008, 10:23 AM   #12100
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so my spool's drive cups are getting worn BAD. I dunno how much longer it can take it but they are probably gonna have to get replaced soon. I tried putting some Tc5 CVD blades in...waste of money. The blades were too big for the cup. Id have to dremel out more material from the drive cup to widen the slot to get the blade to fit, and even then i think it would still bind cuz it sticks out a little...

booo. I have a hara cyclone and judging from the talk here, it appears i have a v2 spool?
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Old 04-28-2008, 10:28 AM   #12101
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Are you using the anti wear grease which came with the spool on the dogbones?

On mine there is very little wear, i try to put grease on after every meet, but often its a couple of meets before i bother.

I do however think there is a fair amount of slop developing in join by the pin between the center part of the spool and and the cups. I dont think the design of the joins was the best idea.
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Old 04-28-2008, 10:30 AM   #12102
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Get the version 3 spool and replace drive cups as needed.Also put some grease on the end of the bone going into the cup to reduce wear.I have run the ver.3 spools for almost a season.Very little wear.
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Old 04-28-2008, 10:30 AM   #12103
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as far as i know there isnt any grease there. I was unaware of the grease as i didnt build the spool, i just used it...

Theres a decent amount of slop there now cuz of the wear, and even the tips of the bones that go into the drive cup are starting to flatten out...

can i get a link to a ver.3 spool?
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Old 04-28-2008, 10:37 AM   #12104
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Hi Guys, does anyone know the cheapest place to buy a cyclone tc car what country and how much?
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Old 04-28-2008, 10:43 AM   #12105
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can i get a link to a ver.3 spool?

http://www.precisionrc.com/nv/car/pr...oduct_id=37384
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