Hot Bodies Cyclone
04-26-2008, 03:51 PM
Before these parts came out I was using the BMI chassis kit. That thing blew @$$hole. The fit/finish was of poor chinese quality although made in the US. You needed to use T2 rear hinge pins so that disabled you from using the Ti-coated pieces on the WCE.
The alignment of the bulkheads is off a bit, so the passenger side rear CVD blade would hit a part inside the rear diff causing binding. Every BMI chassis kit is like that, there all low quality $hit, probabyl the worst thing you can do to your cyclone is put that junk on there.
Im not bashing BMI, they make awsome stuff for other cars just not this one.
04-26-2008, 03:56 PM
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Turbo witch BMI did you have??? I have the 3mm and it's fine.
04-26-2008, 05:09 PM
yeah I had the 3mm BMI kit. Seriously man, take your passenger side rear shock tower off and check the binding on the CVD blade, the blade will wanna "explode" inside the outdrive. Also the spacing in the rear hinge pin blocks, etc etc. I just didn't like it, compared to this Hotbodies piece.
04-26-2008, 10:06 PM
anyone tried the pro spec ball diff in mod? how many runs does it last? also, is ok to use the non aluminum outdrive in mod? just asking before i build the new diff thanks.
04-27-2008, 12:46 AM
I used it the last time out and it's a huge improvement over the previous diff. The diff screw is now switched to the right side. My diff is in my hand as I type this and it's still smooth. Even with the AE diff screw the old diff never felt this smooth. I ran my car about 7 times in mod and all is well. You won't be disappointed.
04-27-2008, 05:41 AM
I used it the last time out and it's a huge improvement over the previous diff. The diff screw is now switched to the right side. My diff is in my hand as I type this and it's still smooth. Even with the AE diff screw the old diff never felt this smooth. I ran my car about 7 times in mod and all is well. You won't be disappointed.
yeah i noticed that the screw is on the other side when i read the manual btw, are you using loctite on the lock/nut/
Last edited by bmmer701; 04-27-2008 at 06:16 AM.
04-27-2008, 06:07 AM
can someone tell me were in between the hpi option springs the moorespeed edition gold a silver springs fit into, hardness wise?
i checked the HB website, this is how i understand the springs are rated;
SOFTEST
-yellow
-gray
-black
-purple
-red
HARDEST
CORRECT?
cheers
i checked the HB website, this is how i understand the springs are rated;
SOFTEST
-yellow
-gray
-black
-purple
-red
HARDEST
CORRECT?
cheers
04-27-2008, 08:13 AM
04-27-2008, 08:23 AM
My bad....I forgot to state that I'm using the alum out drives instead of the delrin. I'm sure the delrin will work but after running the TC5 I'm a little worried about running anything other than alum or steel in the rear. If my memory is correct I did use just a drop of loctite.
04-27-2008, 07:51 PM
cheers Martin
04-28-2008, 04:53 AM
My bad....I forgot to state that I'm using the alum out drives instead of the delrin. I'm sure the delrin will work but after running the TC5 I'm a little worried about running anything other than alum or steel in the rear. If my memory is correct I did use just a drop of loctite.
This is PROBABLY good if you have a habit of snapping diff bolts but for mod you would be better off with aluminium diff halves. The delrin also wears a groove in it quite quickly with mod, you would be better off buying blades at $10 a pair than delrin diff halves at $30 a set.
For those on a diet the delrin is a touch lighter than the aluminium.
04-28-2008, 06:05 AM
Running the old diff i find the delrin is ok, but you cant do it up as tight as you would with aluminium diff halves.
This is PROBABLY good if you have a habit of snapping diff bolts but for mod you would be better off with aluminium diff halves. The delrin also wears a groove in it quite quickly with mod, you would be better off buying blades at $10 a pair than delrin diff halves at $30 a set.
For those on a diet the delrin is a touch lighter than the aluminium.
This is PROBABLY good if you have a habit of snapping diff bolts but for mod you would be better off with aluminium diff halves. The delrin also wears a groove in it quite quickly with mod, you would be better off buying blades at $10 a pair than delrin diff halves at $30 a set.
For those on a diet the delrin is a touch lighter than the aluminium.
04-28-2008, 06:40 AM
i hope the new ones are stronger hehe..
04-28-2008, 06:54 AM
Ive found that for the old diff the cost of the aluminium diff halves is about the same as the delrin however you get blades with the aluminium diff halves.
It is important that you replace the blades before they wear out as if you start to get wear on the aluminium it will increase wear on new blades that get swapped in. Im really cheap and blades are expensive, so i have a tendency to wear out the diff halves because i leave the changing of the blades till too late.
I think the blade starts to wear on half first so you might be able to flip it over if its not too badly worn out.
Actually just thinking now, the diff halves i have have a lot of scoring around where the dogbones meet the diff halves. Although i think thats because i let the blades wear out and dig holes into the diff halves, making it then difficult for me to get the bearings off.
Im just installing some aluminium ones now, and i was thinking about putting anti-wear grease on blades where they meet the diff halves. Dont bother putting it on the dog bones im pretty sure it doesnt wear on the blades there.
It is important that you replace the blades before they wear out as if you start to get wear on the aluminium it will increase wear on new blades that get swapped in. Im really cheap and blades are expensive, so i have a tendency to wear out the diff halves because i leave the changing of the blades till too late.
I think the blade starts to wear on half first so you might be able to flip it over if its not too badly worn out.
Actually just thinking now, the diff halves i have have a lot of scoring around where the dogbones meet the diff halves. Although i think thats because i let the blades wear out and dig holes into the diff halves, making it then difficult for me to get the bearings off.
Im just installing some aluminium ones now, and i was thinking about putting anti-wear grease on blades where they meet the diff halves. Dont bother putting it on the dog bones im pretty sure it doesnt wear on the blades there.
04-28-2008, 07:07 AM
Ive found that for the old diff the cost of the aluminium diff halves is about the same as the delrin however you get blades with the aluminium diff halves.
It is important that you replace the blades before they wear out as if you start to get wear on the aluminium it will increase wear on new blades that get swapped in. Im really cheap and blades are expensive, so i have a tendency to wear out the diff halves because i leave the changing of the blades till too late.
I think the blade starts to wear on half first so you might be able to flip it over if its not too badly worn out.
Actually just thinking now, the diff halves i have have a lot of scoring around where the dogbones meet the diff halves. Although i think thats because i let the blades wear out and dig holes into the diff halves, making it then difficult for me to get the bearings off.
Im just installing some aluminium ones now, and i was thinking about putting anti-wear grease on blades where they meet the diff halves. Dont bother putting it on the dog bones im pretty sure it doesnt wear on the blades there.
It is important that you replace the blades before they wear out as if you start to get wear on the aluminium it will increase wear on new blades that get swapped in. Im really cheap and blades are expensive, so i have a tendency to wear out the diff halves because i leave the changing of the blades till too late.
I think the blade starts to wear on half first so you might be able to flip it over if its not too badly worn out.
Actually just thinking now, the diff halves i have have a lot of scoring around where the dogbones meet the diff halves. Although i think thats because i let the blades wear out and dig holes into the diff halves, making it then difficult for me to get the bearings off.
Im just installing some aluminium ones now, and i was thinking about putting anti-wear grease on blades where they meet the diff halves. Dont bother putting it on the dog bones im pretty sure it doesnt wear on the blades there.
But for the new diff, it might of changed, I dont think so.... STLNLST???