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Old 04-09-2008, 04:56 AM   #11746
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Originally Posted by jorgesimes View Post
I have measured in a hudy setup station all the time. I'm really very disapointed and don't know what to do now. One race passed now and nothing to do, but at least i wish to save the rest of the championship. Does anyone know someone at HPI/HOTBODIES Europe?

Not sure if this had been suggested.

Since the Cyclone upright and the suspension arm can be used on the left and right. Have you tried to switch side and see if the problem follow?

Try one thing at the time. Hinge pin, Arm and the upright. Make sure the hinge pin isn’t bent, suspension arm stay flat on the flat surface. Also pivot block should stay flat on the flat surface as well.
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Old 04-09-2008, 06:29 AM   #11747
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Mmmh. that rear asymetry thing reminds me of the good ole' TC3 days where Cliff himself was swearing to anyone who could hear him that the rear end had perfect 3deg toe in on each wheel and that one should be careful when tightening the rear blocks... Sorry, can't help you on that one jorge, good luck

Regarding that spur issue of mine... thank you guys for convincing me to revisit my setup. the 81T spur fits fine with a 21 pinion, which gives a 9.4 ratio perfectly acceptable for BL 4.5. For some reason and in the stress of a race last saturday, I didn't get it to fit but it does today... the bearings were probably aschew or something. And by the way it's not the bearing "rib" that prevents the motor from backing to the max of the holding screw oval holes, but the cage itself that hits the bulkhead on the side... My fault all along!

Thanks again fellas

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Old 04-09-2008, 07:19 AM   #11748
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Originally Posted by komkit View Post
Not sure if this had been suggested.

Since the Cyclone upright and the suspension arm can be used on the left and right. Have you tried to switch side and see if the problem follow?

Try one thing at the time. Hinge pin, Arm and the upright. Make sure the hinge pin isn’t bent, suspension arm stay flat on the flat surface. Also pivot block should stay flat on the flat surface as well.
I was at the same race with jorge, and i've tried everything i could remember: i switched hubs and arms and tried diferent arms and hubs. I did manage to improve my rear toe-in from 3º/1.5º to 3º/2º, but the problem remains.

We both had problems when turning left, and we both had the least toe-in on the right wheel, so it cant be a coincidence.

BTW i measured the toe-in right after assembly so im sure is not a damaged part or anything like that.
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Old 04-09-2008, 07:43 AM   #11749
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Originally Posted by Itchy View Post
I was at the same race with jorge, and i've tried everything i could remember: i switched hubs and arms and tried diferent arms and hubs. I did manage to improve my rear toe-in from 3º/1.5º to 3º/2º, but the problem remains.

We both had problems when turning left, and we both had the least toe-in on the right wheel, so it cant be a coincidence.

BTW i measured the toe-in right after assembly so im sure is not a damaged part or anything like that.

Ummmm...

When you moved the suspension components from the left to right and right to left, did the measurement changed to 1.5º/3º to 2º/3º instead of 3º/1.5º to 3º/2º?
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Old 04-09-2008, 08:15 AM   #11750
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No, it remains the same. Left 3º - Right 1º

We even try changing parts from itchy car into mine and the problem remains.

When i changed the rear to 2,5º blocks it gives. Left 2,5º - Right 1º.
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Old 04-09-2008, 08:26 AM   #11751
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Im not sure i understand your question, but what i did was: swaped hubs and checked toe; swaped arms, then checked toe. Than i tried different hubs and arms and checked toe after the assemby. When a particular piece improved the toe diference i would let it stay.

If i remember correctly, it improved when i swaped the hubs. The swaped arms didn't make a diference. New arm made litle diference too. It was borrowed, so i let the original stay.
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Old 04-09-2008, 08:57 AM   #11752
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thats funny, i just checked mine again with 3 degree rear block, the left side measured 3 and the right side measured 1.5. I will check the holes in the chassis to see if they are aligned properly, i am assuming there not.
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Old 04-09-2008, 09:00 AM   #11753
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IMHO... If it is the chassis get a new one from somebody else.
Till then a dremel or small file will move anything, it will not take much.
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Old 04-09-2008, 09:03 AM   #11754
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Originally Posted by B18C Turbo View Post
thats funny, i just checked mine again with 3 degree rear block, the left side measured 3 and the right side measured 1.5. I will check the holes in the chassis to see if they are aligned properly, i am assuming there not.
Thats weird....

Mine measures the same on both sides, always has and mines a stock moore speed... I have replaces the rear hubs once, and I have a different toe block on the rear (dont remeber, and im at school lol)
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Old 04-09-2008, 12:38 PM   #11755
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New type ball diff after back in stock & after send out !
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Old 04-09-2008, 01:16 PM   #11756
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ok i just build the pro spec diff for the first time and thought you guys might like to hear about it
to me it was a bit more difficult then the previous version but that could be lack of experiance.
the 1/16 thrust balls are definatly more tricky to handle and there are eight needed to go around the thicker diff screw.
the ceramic 3mm balls are very nice and and so is the new pulley
most critical i find is that the plastic(pom i think) outdrives feels a bit light and the finish on the D-ring support surface is not smooth it really needs to be rubbed with the white grease to seat the D-ring better
I opted for the pro alloy versions as it will need to keep up with my 6cell 4.5turn brushless kit.
these alloy outdrives have a very good looking finish on them. the three edged support does make the whole construction a bit easy to fall over when putting it together but once seated and tightened up it is fine.
once run in a bit it really did feel super smooth. compared to the old diff it feels like there is a bit more resistance, i think because the main balls are on a bigger diameter, but much much smoother.

hopefully the weather will clear so i can run it this weekend and i can see how many runs it holds up. the previous version diff lasted about five to six before feeling gritty.
maby been ask alot already but where did u get the bits to build the new diff? and the ally outdrives

thanks for any info.

**sory i dident see that post above i was afew pages back,but still is that where u got it?**
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Old 04-09-2008, 02:28 PM   #11757
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Originally Posted by RC MARKET View Post
New type ball diff after back in stock & after send out !
Is it in stock now? On your site it says 12th will be when stock becomes available.
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Old 04-09-2008, 02:31 PM   #11758
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Is it in stock now? On your site it says 12th will be when stock becomes available.
try here too http://shopping.rcmodel.hk

they had them also. part number is 67720
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Old 04-09-2008, 02:55 PM   #11759
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Originally Posted by bob33 View Post
maby been ask alot already but where did u get the bits to build the new diff? and the ally outdrives

thanks for any info.

**sory i dident see that post above i was afew pages back,but still is that where u got it?**
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Is it in stock now? On your site it says 12th will be when stock becomes available.
HB Europe has stock, they will be hitting UK shops soon
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Old 04-09-2008, 03:25 PM   #11760
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Quote:
HB Europe has stock, they will be hitting UK shops soon
thanks noble, now just about the new car u got any idea's when they might be relesed so we can get 1? think i no the answer to that..
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