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Old 04-05-2008, 10:07 PM   #11701
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Originally Posted by STLNLST View Post
Man this car is awesome. Looks like I found my new home. I wonder if my girl will get mad if I bring my Cyclone to bed with me.....LOL

Tested alot today and also blew some stuff up but the show still went on. I will be back out for more in two weeks.
Did the orange happen to blow up?

What setup are you running now?
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Old 04-05-2008, 10:23 PM   #11702
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Did the orange happen to blow up?

What setup are you running now?
Yeah....after all these years running the orange I finally had one go up on me. I was in the lead too My car was a rocket. The set up is still the same except I change to the 2.5 front block to get a little more steering and Scotty went with 1mm more ackerman to get his. I still think that his car worked a little better than mine. The ackerman was too much for me when I made that change so I tried to get it elsewhere.
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Old 04-05-2008, 10:50 PM   #11703
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Good to hear Clint !!! We will see you guys May 3rd..... I will be building my car soon.... Any tips will be much appreciated..

Last edited by King of B Main; 04-05-2008 at 11:56 PM.
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Old 04-05-2008, 10:52 PM   #11704
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Yeah....after all these years running the orange I finally had one go up on me. I was in the lead too My car was a rocket. The set up is still the same except I change to the 2.5 front block to get a little more steering and Scotty went with 1mm more ackerman to get his. I still think that his car worked a little better than mine. The ackerman was too much for me when I made that change so I tried to get it elsewhere.
Haha, just the speedo? Or did you kill a motor to?

Sounds good, I have to get school sorted out before I can even touch my cyclone
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Old 04-05-2008, 11:12 PM   #11705
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You have to do that much grinding to get the Core 5000 to fit even though it is only .5mm taller than the Orion 4800 and Trakpower 4900, both of which I hear fit with no modification??
My Orion 4800 will fit without grinding but is pushing on the bulkhead and introduces some tweak. When I swap out to a different battery the tweak disappears, so it's definitely the battery. It's not severe, but it's noticeable.
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Old 04-05-2008, 11:39 PM   #11706
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Good to hear Clint !!! We will see you guys May 3rd..... I will building my car soon.... Any tips will be much appreciated..
Just really pay attention to your diff is about the only thing I can suggest. If it's not working right then the rest of your setup doesn't mean squat. I keep wanting to try the stock diff screw but once I look at it I just keep my AE one installed. I can't wait for the Reedy warm up race. I would have liked to see the spec tire announced soon so that racers can come out and get some track time and make the regular club races better.

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Haha, just the speedo? Or did you kill a motor to?

Sounds good, I have to get school sorted out before I can even touch my cyclone

The motor harness connected to the speedo took a little of the heat so it has some battle wounds on it. Nothing major though. I put in my back up and continued to race.
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Old 04-06-2008, 12:47 AM   #11707
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Just really pay attention to your diff is about the only thing I can suggest. If it's not working right then the rest of your setup doesn't mean squat.
can a "non-properly" working diff cause the car to be loose everywhere?

just curious because im trying to nail down a set up for my AME cyclone...and maybe the root of all my problems is my diff?
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Old 04-06-2008, 02:41 AM   #11708
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Default New top deck?

Apologies if this has been posted elsewhere. Just saw this pic from the recent LRP Masters in Germany. Looks like Andy Moores top deck has been cut for extra flex? He is also using the new bulkheads and main chassis with battery bits.
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Old 04-06-2008, 06:39 AM   #11709
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Does anyone know where you can get Edit Rc Products in the states?

Thanks,
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Old 04-06-2008, 07:06 AM   #11710
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can a "non-properly" working diff cause the car to be loose everywhere?

just curious because im trying to nail down a set up for my AME cyclone...and maybe the root of all my problems is my diff?
Yes it can. The local AE guy here had a few troubles yesterday and once he rebuilt his diff his car was pretty good. This rule should be applied to every car. I just think that they diff in this car could use a little extra love. Once that's done go and set TQ
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Old 04-06-2008, 10:10 AM   #11711
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Apologies if this has been posted elsewhere. Just saw this pic from the recent LRP Masters in Germany. Looks like Andy Moores top deck has been cut for extra flex? He is also using the new bulkheads and main chassis with battery bits.
I was wondering the same lol..... My car is hooked up, but its something to try
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Old 04-06-2008, 10:39 AM   #11712
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Good to hear Clint !!! We will see you guys May 3rd..... I will be building my car soon.... Any tips will be much appreciated..
Welcome aboard Mike!!
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Old 04-06-2008, 02:22 PM   #11713
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i got beat by one of though darn purple cars. if this keeps up i will have to switch.
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Old 04-06-2008, 02:29 PM   #11714
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Guys, I need help with my Cyclone, why when I setup my car and check my toe-in for the rear wheels the reading is not the same from left to right. I am using a 3.0* pivot block for the rear but the reading can be left 3.0* and right 1.5*. Isn't it suppose to bothe side reads 3.0* if my pivot block is 3.0*? Is this something that I need to worry about or can I just ignore the different reading. I have use different setup kits to check, and it also give me different readings.
Hi Birdman, I purchased a moorespeed cyclone last week and built Friday/Saturday and did notice that my rear toe was not even both sides. It should be the same 3deg both sides with the 3 deg block. As you look at the car from the front the left rear wheel is only toeing in 1.5deg and the right 3deg when running the standard 3deg block.
I did speak to Mirage Technical and they have tried to help but no joy. I have disassembled the rear of the car and checked everything. I removed the rear pivot pins and rolled them along a flat piece of glass and they are perfect, I have swapped both rear wishbones and hubs for my Tamiya ones and still no change.
I did notice that my cyclone has different colour of carbon than older versions that makes up the chassis, top deck and suspension mounts. Mirage said that HPI have recently changed there carbon supplier and it looks like for a cheaper version IMO, the carbon weave bends as it runs down the chassis and is very light in shade in comparison to the older black carbon. I'm wondering if the holes are incorrectly positioned and this makes my car crab badly. I also do not no where to go next as it is very difficult to find the reason.

Can Anyone Help Please?
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Old 04-06-2008, 02:56 PM   #11715
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Hi Birdman, I purchased a moorespeed cyclone last week and built Friday/Saturday and did notice that my rear toe was not even both sides. It should be the same 3deg both sides with the 3 deg block. As you look at the car from the front the left rear wheel is only toeing in 1.5deg and the right 3deg when running the standard 3deg block.
I did speak to Mirage Technical and they have tried to help but no joy. I have disassembled the rear of the car and checked everything. I removed the rear pivot pins and rolled them along a flat piece of glass and they are perfect, I have swapped both rear wishbones and hubs for my Tamiya ones and still no change.
I did notice that my cyclone has different colour of carbon than older versions that makes up the chassis, top deck and suspension mounts. Mirage said that HPI have recently changed there carbon supplier and it looks like for a cheaper version IMO, the carbon weave bends as it runs down the chassis and is very light in shade in comparison to the older black carbon. I'm wondering if the holes are incorrectly positioned and this makes my car crab badly. I also do not no where to go next as it is very difficult to find the reason.

Can Anyone Help Please?
Hello,
Could you please send some pics to the address that I pm'd you?

thank you.
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