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Old 03-27-2008, 10:33 PM   #11611
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Thought I sent it....sorry dude.

PM sent.
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Old 03-27-2008, 10:41 PM   #11612
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Thought I sent it....sorry dude.

PM sent.
Father time can be a real BIT#&....
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Old 03-28-2008, 12:09 AM   #11613
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Gents
Im having trouble getting my WCE out of slow corners.
I run Stew Nobles complete setup with sorex 28 tyres indoors on carpet, with SP 10.5 motor, lipo and LRP Sphere TC.
i run CS high grip additive.
It seems if i keep the car rolling its fine but out of slow hairpins or corners where u have to brake, when getting back on the power the rear end steps out like a 2WD. Seems to be due to the torque of the brushless motor.
I have de tweaked the car, all settings are fine as car is superb through faster corners carrying massive corner speed.
Only thing i can think of is the diff feels a bit rough but adjusted correctly?
Help

Richard
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Old 03-28-2008, 05:53 AM   #11614
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richard baker
I run the same set-up and had the same problem. Try no shims under the rear pivot supports, 2mm rear droop, 3mm front droop (over ride height) 35wt shock oil will also help.
Good luck and I hope that helps you, it did for me.
A smooth rear diff is also a must have, take your time breaking it in then tighten it up.
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Old 03-28-2008, 06:12 AM   #11615
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It sound like you are powerslide. You may have too much on power steering and/or get on the throttle too hard before the Apex.

Like Lazer said, remove shim out or add shim under the camber link on the upright. If the car works perfect everywhere on the track/layouts I would try to be easy on the throttle at the Apex.
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Old 03-28-2008, 06:56 AM   #11616
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Hi Richard,

Are you the Richard Baker thats goes to WKRCC? If so, I'll be there on Sunday, come and find me, I pit in the back changing room with the folk from Eastbourne. I run the Cyclone too and the setup is not far off the standard carpet setup (http://www.hbeurope.com/pdfs/setups/...rpet_setup.pdf) but with 1.4mm roll bars all round and Orion 60wt upfront and 50wt rear. I also use Sorex 28 tyres, brushless and LiPo so we are almost identical in the key components.

Anyhow, come and find me and I can watch your car during practice and then we can see if making a few changes helps you out.

Tim Hancock.

PS. Oh yeah, if you're not that Richard Baker just ignore the bit about coming to see me LOL
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Old 03-28-2008, 08:54 AM   #11617
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Originally Posted by richard baker View Post
Gents
Im having trouble getting my WCE out of slow corners.
I run Stew Nobles complete setup with sorex 28 tyres indoors on carpet, with SP 10.5 motor, lipo and LRP Sphere TC.
i run CS high grip additive.
It seems if i keep the car rolling its fine but out of slow hairpins or corners where u have to brake, when getting back on the power the rear end steps out like a 2WD. Seems to be due to the torque of the brushless motor.
I have de tweaked the car, all settings are fine as car is superb through faster corners carrying massive corner speed.
Only thing i can think of is the diff feels a bit rough but adjusted correctly?
Help

Richard
You can also try the pro-squat in the rear. If you have 1.5mm shims under the suspension blocks now, take 0.5mm off from the Rear/Front suspension block. This will make the rear suspension to absorb the on-power input. However, if your race track is kind of bumpy, I wouldn't recommend it.
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Old 03-28-2008, 09:47 AM   #11618
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Tim thanks yes i will be @ WKRCC on sunday, and thats the setup i run too but with pink front springs and a 1.2mm rear bar?

Richard
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Old 03-28-2008, 10:56 AM   #11619
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Originally Posted by Lazer Guy View Post
richard baker
I run the same set-up and had the same problem. Try no shims under the rear pivot supports, 2mm rear droop, 3mm front droop (over ride height) 35wt shock oil will also help.
Good luck and I hope that helps you, it did for me.
A smooth rear diff is also a must have, take your time breaking it in then tighten it up.
hi just want to ask if you will remove the shims under the front rear, and rear rear blocks?

i race in asphalt, my setup is somehow like the tarmac setup that you can download at hbeurope website however, i changed somethings, like 0 deg pivot block(front) 1mm shim under front front pivot block and 2mmshims under front rear pivot blocks. 2mm ackerman, 35wt oil front and rear (2holes) (no foam) 4.5ride height front and rear, and 6 droop front and rear in droop gauge(i think it's 3.5mm above ride height if i'm not mistaken) .then the rest is the same. i want to have more on power steering and off power steering (a little bit will be great) any help will greatly appreciate it.

(what i have something in mind is changing the springs to a softer one like tamiya yellows and add a little droop on the rear)

btw, running mod 4.5 and 3.5 with lipo

thanks
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Old 03-28-2008, 01:06 PM   #11620
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Hi,
I have just started running a Moore edition Cyclone I run a 13.5 on asphalt outdoors and the car handles great but the drive line seems a bit tight compared to my old black Cyclone I had which used to just roll and roll after you got off the throttle where this car seems to pull up quite quickly I think the problem is in the rear as the front oneway and centre layshaft spin quite freely and the belt tensions seem ok so I will pull it apart tomorrow and check the bearings but any ideas would be helpful. Thanks
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Old 03-28-2008, 01:48 PM   #11621
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Originally Posted by bmmer701 View Post
hi just want to ask if you will remove the shims under the front rear, and rear rear blocks? .....Yes.......Both rear blocks on the chassis
i want to have more on power steering and off power steering.

I would change the front toe block, start at 2.5 and go down tell you like it. Are you using a diff,spool or one way??? I like the spool.


btw, running mod 4.5 and 3.5 with lipo
Mod I run mod, don't you just love these Big BL motors. A couple years ago running mod was a lot of work.

thanks
Man.....There is no shortage of help here..... That is what I like about Cyclone racers.
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Old 03-28-2008, 02:16 PM   #11622
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Originally Posted by Taffyjnr5 View Post
Hi,
I have just started running a Moore edition Cyclone I run a 13.5 on asphalt outdoors and the car handles great but the drive line seems a bit tight compared to my old black Cyclone I had which used to just roll and roll after you got off the throttle where this car seems to pull up quite quickly I think the problem is in the rear as the front oneway and centre layshaft spin quite freely and the belt tensions seem ok so I will pull it apart tomorrow and check the bearings but any ideas would be helpful. Thanks
check for tightness in your layshaft, sometimes you might have the pulleys tightened to close to the bulkheads. I like to give it like .5mm play from side to side for free movement with little to no play. And yes check all your ball bearings.
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Old 03-28-2008, 02:17 PM   #11623
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Originally Posted by bmmer701 View Post
hi just want to ask if you will remove the shims under the front rear, and rear rear blocks?

i race in asphalt, my setup is somehow like the tarmac setup that you can download at hbeurope website however, i changed somethings, like 0 deg pivot block(front) 1mm shim under front front pivot block and 2mmshims under front rear pivot blocks. 2mm ackerman, 35wt oil front and rear (2holes) (no foam) 4.5ride height front and rear, and 6 droop front and rear in droop gauge(i think it's 3.5mm above ride height if i'm not mistaken) .then the rest is the same. i want to have more on power steering and off power steering (a little bit will be great) any help will greatly appreciate it.

(what i have something in mind is changing the springs to a softer one like tamiya yellows and add a little droop on the rear)

btw, running mod 4.5 and 3.5 with lipo

thanks
i ran my AME Cyclone last sat with 2mm underneath all the blocks using a Hot Bodies Mazda6. for tomorrow's race I removed all the spacers and will be using a Protoform MazdaSpeed6.

with those two huge changes... my car should have lots and lots of steering all around. ill post again and let you guys know what i find.

btw. im using Andy Moore's worlds set up.

bmmer701 since your running mod... i think removing ALL of the spacers might be too big of a change? why not just try going from a 1.5mm spacer all around to 1mm? just a thought.
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Old 03-28-2008, 02:56 PM   #11624
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmmer701 View Post
hi just want to ask if you will remove the shims under the front rear, and rear rear blocks?

i race in asphalt, my setup is somehow like the tarmac setup that you can download at hbeurope website however, i changed somethings, like 0 deg pivot block(front) 1mm shim under front front pivot block and 2mmshims under front rear pivot blocks. 2mm ackerman, 35wt oil front and rear (2holes) (no foam) 4.5ride height front and rear, and 6 droop front and rear in droop gauge(i think it's 3.5mm above ride height if i'm not mistaken) .then the rest is the same. i want to have more on power steering and off power steering (a little bit will be great) any help will greatly appreciate it.

(what i have something in mind is changing the springs to a softer one like tamiya yellows and add a little droop on the rear)

btw, running mod 4.5 and 3.5 with lipo

thanks
Removing all shims under the blocks will lower your roll center and make the car roll over more in the corners. Depending on the traction at the track it may cause the car to roll over way too much, especially in mod.

--- Possible Solutions ---
Remove anti-dive in front. Run the front end level.
Try 4mm ackerman.
Less droop in the front. ie - 5mm
Use the 2.5 pivot block in front.
Also look at what tires and prep techniques others are using at the track. Even with a good set-up, the wrong tires/prep can be a big handicap.


Are you running sway bars? Try a thinner sway bar up front or remove the sway bar all together. Removing and changing sway bars is a quick and easy way of determining if more roll in the front or rear will benefit the overall setup of the car.
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Old 03-28-2008, 03:25 PM   #11625
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmmer701 View Post
hi just want to ask if you will remove the shims under the front rear, and rear rear blocks?

i race in asphalt, my setup is somehow like the tarmac setup that you can download at hbeurope website however, i changed somethings, like 0 deg pivot block(front) 1mm shim under front front pivot block and 2mmshims under front rear pivot blocks. 2mm ackerman, 35wt oil front and rear (2holes) (no foam) 4.5ride height front and rear, and 6 droop front and rear in droop gauge(i think it's 3.5mm above ride height if i'm not mistaken) .then the rest is the same. i want to have more on power steering and off power steering (a little bit will be great) any help will greatly appreciate it.

(what i have something in mind is changing the springs to a softer one like tamiya yellows and add a little droop on the rear)

btw, running mod 4.5 and 3.5 with lipo

thanks
when you think of the softer suspension for more steering, you also better to think about taking off the anti-dive in the front.
Instead of the angle you have now (1mm under the F/F and 2mm F/R), try adding at least 0.5mm under the F/F block.

Yes, sometimes the anti-dive makes more steering especially when it feels like the front end bottoms out easily(too much weight transfer to the front). but it sounds like the problem you have is not this case.
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