R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 02-27-2008, 08:07 AM   #11056
Tech Elite
 
BlackedOutREVO's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: CA
Posts: 3,788
Trader Rating: 67 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rc-zombies View Post
I've had Square stuff Break!
Again, im not saying it wont, but the alu is better quality..... I run all the stock plastic parts...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Pocknell View Post
I wouldn't say the car is super weak. You must have very unfriendly track markings at your local, or you're hitting things very hard.

The graphite suspension parts are fine.
I think so to, it will break when you hit the corner just right, and it bugs me, but if I keep breaking that part, then I know I need to calm down, and stay off that turn cutting it so close....

Quote:
Originally Posted by k_bojar View Post
Anyone's aluminum parts will bend in a big enough hit - its just some bend easier than others...

I'll say it again - nothing's worse then trying to chase down a "tweak" in the car only to find out its your $30 C-Hubs that you bought 2 days ago...

No matter how much you crash/tap the board/whatever - 95% of the time its better to run the composite parts...Yeah, its frustrating when they break in a race, but its still a HELL of a lot cheaper to replace

ABout the only places I'd ever replace alumninum would be: wheels hexes, pulleys (center), suspension holders. That's it - everything else will be composite, and I don't drive like a pro
Yeah, I like the purple though, im a sucker for it on this car

I might try the xray knuckles, and maybe C hubs, but I will see how much I break... Last year during summer I didnt break alot, it was more winter when I had no money for new tires and I was all over the place lol, then you get farther behind and try to push the car even more, and then your done, broke a few plastic things lol..... I am going to fix that this year though
__________________
R1 Wurks/Awesomatix USA/Roche USA/Protoform/Solaris/Mo Speed/Speedworld Raceway
BlackedOutREVO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-27-2008, 11:49 AM   #11057
Tech Elite
 
SammyZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: New England
Posts: 3,046
Trader Rating: 138 (100%+)
Default

its unfortunate that my local carpet track uses wood covered with smooth plastic as barriers. I hit pretty hard, but if I hit with the graphite parts they ALWAYS break no matter what.

Once is switched to aluminum the car doesn't break, or rarely i snap the arm or bend a hinge pin. I am all over the track until I get the right setup.

anyways the issue im having with my rubber tire cyclone is that the rear end hooks around or does a complete 180 around corners.

Currently Im using the carpet/rubber tire setup from hotbodiesonline.com.
If your not familair with it, if ic an recall:

camber: 1.5 neg
No roll center blocks
3 degrees rear toe in
0 degree front pivot block
0 degree front toe
jaco green pre-mounts
Full sauce all around
Caster: 4 degrees
50wt oil front + rear
stock pistons
Gold/silver HPI springs
4.5mm ride height
.5mm droop front and rear
190mm stratus body
Low-medium bite carpet
SammyZ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-27-2008, 12:55 PM   #11058
Tech Apprentice
 
Matt Pocknell's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 88
Default

What front axle are you using with that setup? I have some good starting points for diff and one-way.
__________________
Mirage Racing|Hot Bodies|Nosram|Orion|Edit|AH Racing Products|Hudy|VRC
Matt Pocknell is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-27-2008, 01:09 PM   #11059
Tech Apprentice
 
Matt Pocknell's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 88
Default

Also, what class are you running?
__________________
Mirage Racing|Hot Bodies|Nosram|Orion|Edit|AH Racing Products|Hudy|VRC
Matt Pocknell is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-27-2008, 04:14 PM   #11060
Tech Elite
 
SammyZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: New England
Posts: 3,046
Trader Rating: 138 (100%+)
Default

Im using MIP CVD wce axles. I put in the ball diff up front and currently waiting on alloy c-hubs to run the car as I ran out of right side graphite ones (9 total broken).

Im gonna try laying down the shocks 2 holes in to see if that helps. I wanna use the ball diff up front until I know how to drive the car and then switch to a spool or one-way.

class is stock sedan.
SammyZ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-27-2008, 05:00 PM   #11061
Tech Adept
 
Stew Noble's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Team Ian
Posts: 210
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by B18C Turbo View Post
Im using MIP CVD wce axles. I put in the ball diff up front and currently waiting on alloy c-hubs to run the car as I ran out of right side graphite ones (9 total broken).

Im gonna try laying down the shocks 2 holes in to see if that helps. I wanna use the ball diff up front until I know how to drive the car and then switch to a spool or one-way.

class is stock sedan.
I dont know why you break so many c-hubs, it's not common.

Try this....

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...rldCup2008.jpg

Copy it carefully, but as you run on low/med traction i suggest using 3mm under the front upper inner links, 5.5 droop and don't have the 2mm of rear roll bar exposed.

Stew
__________________
// S N F //
Stew Noble is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-27-2008, 06:12 PM   #11062
Tech Addict
 
NickM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 721
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by B18C Turbo View Post
anyways the issue im having with my rubber tire cyclone is that the rear end hooks around or does a complete 180 around corners.
I always find this kind of behaviour relates to the diff. Major and serious handling issues like this are rarely related to geometry and setup, IMO. It also could be a massive tweak, in which case it will only happen when turning one way.

Unlike my old xray's, I find the cyclone is particularly sensitive to diff setup. Too loose or too tight, and the car just loops around in exactly the way you describe. I'd get rid of the front diff so you only have one to worry about, and experiment with the tightness of the rear. Use the one way for stock 27t or 19t class rather than the spool. Don't forget to locktite the diff nut once you're done experimenting.
__________________
TRF 416 | Corally Φ | TOP Scythe | F103GT
NickM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-27-2008, 06:27 PM   #11063
Tech Elite
 
SammyZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: New England
Posts: 3,046
Trader Rating: 138 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stew Noble View Post
I dont know why you break so many c-hubs, it's not common.

Try this....

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...rldCup2008.jpg

Copy it carefully, but as you run on low/med traction i suggest using 3mm under the front upper inner links, 5.5 droop and don't have the 2mm of rear roll bar exposed.

Stew

thanks for that setup Stew. What will happen if I don't put 1.5mm spacers underneathe all the pivot blocks? Which sway bars should I be using for low-medium grip carpet?

The hot setup at our track is 4.5mm ride height, should I set droop to .5mm all around?

What do you think about going from the front ball diff back to the spool?
SammyZ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-27-2008, 06:28 PM   #11064
Tech Elite
 
SammyZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: New England
Posts: 3,046
Trader Rating: 138 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by NickM View Post
I always find this kind of behaviour relates to the diff. Major and serious handling issues like this are rarely related to geometry and setup, IMO. It also could be a massive tweak, in which case it will only happen when turning one way.

Unlike my old xray's, I find the cyclone is particularly sensitive to diff setup. Too loose or too tight, and the car just loops around in exactly the way you describe. I'd get rid of the front diff so you only have one to worry about, and experiment with the tightness of the rear. Use the one way for stock 27t or 19t class rather than the spool. Don't forget to locktite the diff nut once you're done experimenting.
I always make sure the car is completely de-tweaked on a MIP tweak station.
SammyZ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-27-2008, 07:37 PM   #11065
Tech Elite
 
BlackedOutREVO's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: CA
Posts: 3,788
Trader Rating: 67 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by B18C Turbo View Post
I always make sure the car is completely de-tweaked on a MIP tweak station.
Tweak stations lie IMO

Check tweak on a flat set up board or something thats flat
__________________
R1 Wurks/Awesomatix USA/Roche USA/Protoform/Solaris/Mo Speed/Speedworld Raceway
BlackedOutREVO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-27-2008, 07:42 PM   #11066
Tech Elite
 
KHoff7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 3,166
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackedOutREVO View Post
Tweak stations lie IMO

Check tweak on a flat set up board or something thats flat
agreed, take the wheels off and un tweak on a flat board, tweak stations can be changed by anything on the car such as preloads. Teak stations are better used as a "check" once your all done setting the car up to make sure something like the preloads/ride height are all even.
__________________
Awesomatix USA / Middle River Hobbies / Sweep / Psycho Cells Racing
Karl Hoffmeister
KHoff7 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-27-2008, 08:04 PM   #11067
Tech Elite
 
SammyZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: New England
Posts: 3,046
Trader Rating: 138 (100%+)
Default

how do i de-tweak chassis on glass?
SammyZ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-27-2008, 08:10 PM   #11068
Tech Elite
 
BlackedOutREVO's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: CA
Posts: 3,788
Trader Rating: 67 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by B18C Turbo View Post
how do i de-tweak chassis on glass?
Take your wheels off, and lay the car on a flat surface, if it rocks then its tweaked.... Loosen the top deck screws, and have someone hold the front and rear shock towers down so its flat
__________________
R1 Wurks/Awesomatix USA/Roche USA/Protoform/Solaris/Mo Speed/Speedworld Raceway
BlackedOutREVO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-27-2008, 08:13 PM   #11069
Tech Elite
 
SammyZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: New England
Posts: 3,046
Trader Rating: 138 (100%+)
Default

nice i saw someone do that thanks man!
SammyZ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-27-2008, 08:18 PM   #11070
Tech Elite
 
BlackedOutREVO's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: CA
Posts: 3,788
Trader Rating: 67 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by B18C Turbo View Post
nice i saw someone do that thanks man!

Yeah, I think you will find your car is tweaked... From the sounds of you crashing, its tweaked, which could be the problem of the spinning out
__________________
R1 Wurks/Awesomatix USA/Roche USA/Protoform/Solaris/Mo Speed/Speedworld Raceway
BlackedOutREVO is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Hot Bodies Cyclone S wardyl Electric On-Road 4 10-01-2008 08:01 AM
Hot bodies Cyclone 12 k7king R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 1 09-04-2008 08:09 AM
WTB Hot Bodies Cyclone/ cyclone Parts tenpins77 R/C Items: Wanted to Buy 0 07-29-2008 08:48 AM
Hot Bodies Cyclone sdt1 Australia For Sale/Trade 6 07-13-2008 03:05 AM
WTB: Cyclone S/Cyclone Painted bodies vazzo Australia Wanted to Buy 0 02-05-2008 06:15 AM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 03:18 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0