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Old 01-26-2008, 02:17 PM   #10606
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Originally Posted by Joehwee View Post
Forget about the AE screw, just get the following parts and you shouldn't be breaking the diff screw. Just make sure that you run a 2.6mm drill bit thru the centre of the diff outdrives.

http://www.hotbodiesonline.net/searc...=61535&lang=en

http://www.hbeurope.com/piw.php?lang=en&partNo=61544
If you are braking diff screws this will fix it. You need the nut from one to use on the other, the spring is stronger with this set also, I made up one with these parts and got over 25 runs and it still was good enough for some more runs. I put a shock rebound foam in last to keep the dirt out of the trust balls and the lube in as well.

Last edited by Lazer Guy; 01-26-2008 at 02:38 PM.
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Old 01-26-2008, 02:42 PM   #10607
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that i didn't know. Thanks for all the info. I'm got the car used from the local hotshot (he has four) so I will lean on him for everything. The LHS sells HPI/Hotbodies stuff so I will get the lubes to do the rebuilds from there. Any other info you can give would be greatly appreciated.
How ever, and what ever Scotty uses, his diff is always perfect...

Which is why he will be building my diff, and shocks lol..... And probably helping my set up my car

I am wondering what will last the longest also, since I hardly ever re build my diff... But that WILL change
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Old 01-26-2008, 05:22 PM   #10608
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Default Smooth diff

I'm getting 20-30 runs from my diffs on carpet. I find Cyclone diffs ultra smooth when built correctly, I think it's the oversized thrust balls. I use Associated black grease on the thrust and HPI / Schumacher / Xray or Stealth lube on the diff balls, depending on the action I want for the front diff. I've only ever broken one diff screw, cause i over-tightened it. I've seen guys try to adapt a heavier diff screw and T nut but, the larger T nut interferes with bone as the suspension compresses. I've tried the stick on dust covers but they don't work for me (they stick to the outdrive as well as the lip on the pulley). I'm wet sanding my drive rings with #800 and using all ceramic balls, very very smooth.
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Old 01-26-2008, 07:10 PM   #10609
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Old 01-26-2008, 07:16 PM   #10610
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the manual doesnt say how tight the diff should be, all they say is "make it tight so you cant spin the pulley". Is that it? How many turns out from fully compressed is the general rule of thumb?

I know with AE diffs its 1/4 turn backed out.

Also when you guys rebuild your diffs, do you re-use the parts then just clean and re-lube? or are you using new thrust washers, thrust balls, diff balls, and d-rings?

I only use steel balls because i can get them for .01 cents each.
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Old 01-26-2008, 07:24 PM   #10611
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Originally Posted by B18C Turbo View Post
the manual doesnt say how tight the diff should be, all they say is "make it tight so you cant spin the pulley". Is that it? How many turns out from fully compressed is the general rule of thumb?

I know with AE diffs its 1/4 turn backed out.

Also when you guys rebuild your diffs, do you re-use the parts then just clean and re-lube? or are you using new thrust washers, thrust balls, diff balls, and d-rings?

I only use steel balls because i can get them for .01 cents each.
You put the diff together, and put it in the car, and tighten it till you cant make the pulley slip, you want the diff as loose as possible... But if it slips, that just makes your diffs crunchy fast.....
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Old 01-27-2008, 03:11 AM   #10612
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Originally Posted by pcar951 View Post
I'm getting 20-30 runs from my diffs on carpet. I find Cyclone diffs ultra smooth when built correctly, I think it's the oversized thrust balls. I use Associated black grease on the thrust and HPI / Schumacher / Xray or Stealth lube on the diff balls, depending on the action I want for the front diff. I've only ever broken one diff screw, cause i over-tightened it. I've seen guys try to adapt a heavier diff screw and T nut but, the larger T nut interferes with bone as the suspension compresses. I've tried the stick on dust covers but they don't work for me (they stick to the outdrive as well as the lip on the pulley). I'm wet sanding my drive rings with #800 and using all ceramic balls, very very smooth.
with the diff stickers you are suposed to put some thrust greese on the outdrive so the sticker doesnt stick to that part and hinder the diff action....

they work real good for me
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Old 01-27-2008, 07:59 AM   #10613
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with the diff stickers you are suposed to put some thrust greese on the outdrive so the sticker doesnt stick to that part and hinder the diff action....

they work real good for me
Yup, tried the grease thing and still didn't like the way they worked. Honestly, I don't have much trouble with my pulleys being open but I race primarily on indoor carpet right. I rarely race outdoors.
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Old 01-27-2008, 08:35 AM   #10614
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i need some shocks and was wondering if anyone has some spares they could sell me at a decent price :-)
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Old 01-27-2008, 10:35 AM   #10615
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i need some shocks and was wondering if anyone has some spares they could sell me at a decent price :-)
try the 3racing complete shock set, its only $21 and is a complete set of 4 shocks.

http://www.precisionrc.com/nv/car/pr...oduct_id=37278
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Old 01-27-2008, 10:49 AM   #10616
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Originally Posted by B18C Turbo View Post
try the 3racing complete shock set, its only $21 and is a complete set of 4 shocks.

http://www.precisionrc.com/nv/car/pr...oduct_id=37278
3Racing shock no good !
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Old 01-27-2008, 11:03 AM   #10617
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yea i refuse to use 3racing shocks
junk
im looking for the hpi ones
just not about to dish out 60-70 for them
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Old 01-27-2008, 11:07 AM   #10618
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Don't touch the 3Racing shock as they are rubbish.

This has probably been asked already but has anyone found that the new center pulleys(18t) and belts(170t,63t) make any difference as i wouldn't mind getting them if they do. I run on a small indoor carpet track.

Liam
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Old 01-27-2008, 12:03 PM   #10619
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i need some shocks and was wondering if anyone has some spares they could sell me at a decent price :-)
what happened to the shocks that were on their man?
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Old 01-27-2008, 12:15 PM   #10620
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Originally Posted by B18C Turbo View Post
I figured I would need some unique shims. Thanks man!

Also does anyone know where to get an alternative to the HPI diff grease? It looks silver/metallic, what If I get a bottle of high temp axle grease (red) from the auto parts store? This grease is $2.39 for a tiny tiny container.
Honestly, I sell (in my opinion) some of the best diff lube you can buy. However, I don't have any stock right now and may not for awhile due to several factors. Check out my site and you'll see why I came up with it. I even addressed the "runny" issue that STLNLST spoke of. My local hobby shop does have it in stock and I believe Superior Hobbies in Orlando may have some as well.

www.wickedfastracing.com

PNP Hobbies 321-723-7318
Superior Hobbies 407-834-9299

Marcos, remind me to give you some to try...LOL.
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