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Old 12-14-2007, 09:21 AM   #10276
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Camber links are fairly long, Hole#1 everywhere.
yes a longer link will give you alot more roll in the turns try the shorter ones position #3 and go from there

how many shims are you using under the links?
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Old 12-14-2007, 09:25 AM   #10277
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Thanks for the help! I currently have 3mm under front and 2mm under the rear (inner mounts only, nothing under the hub mounts).
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Old 12-14-2007, 09:36 AM   #10278
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Thanks for the help! I currently have 3mm under front and 2mm under the rear (inner mounts only, nothing under the hub mounts).
you can try dropping the front to a 2mm shim and 1.5mm in the rear
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Old 12-14-2007, 09:43 AM   #10279
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Watchout- I just grabbed Hara's cyclone from the Vegas race and took a look at his setup. I also consulted with one of our guys that runs on-road regularly and here are a couple of changes that might help.

(It is recommended that you make the changes below in the order listed. You should make one change at a time, run it, and then decide whether or not you'd like to change more; or if it doesn't feel good to you, whether you should change it back)


#1 Change the ackerman. The standard setup is to run (2) 2mm shims behind the ballstud for the steering ackerman. Try removing one of those shims and running just (1) 2mm shim.

#2 Soften the rear spring. Try going to blue springs in the rear to soften up the car slightly. We would also recommend standing the rear shocks up slightly by moving out a couple of holes in the tower.

#3 After trying the rear spring change you may also try running a white front spring which is one step firmer than the golds you are currently running.

#4 If you're still having trouble you can work with tires. If you're currently saucing the whole front try saucing just the inner half; you may also run a bead of glue around the side-wall of the front tires to prevent them from folding as much.

*IMPORTANT if you do glue the side-walls be sure not to get any glue on the surface of the tire that contacts the carpet.

Hope this works well for you,

Happy Racing,

Jeremy
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Old 12-14-2007, 09:49 AM   #10280
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thats a great set up( Hara's set up) but that set up will work if you are Hara or drive like him

but in all good points
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Old 12-14-2007, 09:52 AM   #10281
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Marcos- This actually isn't Hara's setup. I thought about posting it, but was immediately talked out of it as his setups are generally hard to drive for us mortals out there. Those are just a few changes that we think will help "watchout" with his issue...Hara's car is different.
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Old 12-14-2007, 09:56 AM   #10282
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Originally Posted by Jeremy Felles View Post
Marcos- This actually isn't Hara's setup. I thought about posting it, but was immediately talked out of it as his setups are generally hard to drive for us mortals out there. Those are just a few changes that we think will help "watchout" with his issue...Hara's car is different.
i agree i tried one of his set ups a few years ago and i couldnt drive it
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Old 12-14-2007, 10:16 AM   #10283
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Originally Posted by Jeremy Felles View Post
Watchout- I just grabbed Hara's cyclone from the Vegas race and took a look at his setup. I also consulted with one of our guys that runs on-road regularly and here are a couple of changes that might help.

(It is recommended that you make the changes below in the order listed. You should make one change at a time, run it, and then decide whether or not you'd like to change more; or if it doesn't feel good to you, whether you should change it back)


#1 Change the ackerman. The standard setup is to run (2) 2mm shims behind the ballstud for the steering ackerman. Try removing one of those shims and running just (1) 2mm shim.

#2 Soften the rear spring. Try going to blue springs in the rear to soften up the car slightly. We would also recommend standing the rear shocks up slightly by moving out a couple of holes in the tower.

#3 After trying the rear spring change you may also try running a white front spring which is one step firmer than the golds you are currently running.

#4 If you're still having trouble you can work with tires. If you're currently saucing the whole front try saucing just the inner half; you may also run a bead of glue around the side-wall of the front tires to prevent them from folding as much.

*IMPORTANT if you do glue the side-walls be sure not to get any glue on the surface of the tire that contacts the carpet.

Hope this works well for you,

Happy Racing,

Jeremy
I'm currently only saucing the inner half of tire, but the other points make sense. I now seemed to be armed with a few options to try . Thanks for the feedback.

Mitch
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Old 12-14-2007, 10:48 AM   #10284
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Cool Mitch, let us know how those changes work for you. I'm sure others have gone through (or are going through) similar issues.

Marcos- Man all this talk about Hara's setup being out of hand really makes me want to try it. Maybe we could hold a "Hara Setup" spec race and see whom could go the longest without wadding it up.
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Old 12-14-2007, 11:20 AM   #10285
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Would adding sway-bars not help the traction roll problem? Anytime I had too much side-bite, I've added a sway bar and the problem went away since the car will stay flatter in the turn.
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Old 12-14-2007, 11:34 AM   #10286
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Cool Mitch, let us know how those changes work for you. I'm sure others have gone through (or are going through) similar issues.

Marcos- Man all this talk about Hara's setup being out of hand really makes me want to try it. Maybe we could hold a "Hara Setup" spec race and see whom could go the longest without wadding it up.
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Old 12-14-2007, 11:52 AM   #10287
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Duckman- Thats a good point. I had assumed (perhaps incorrectly) that he was running the swaybars as we run them just about everywhere.

So in addition to the above recommendations if you're not running the swaybars you should start with our silver bar up front and copper in the rear. This is the standard rubber tire swaybar setup.
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Old 12-14-2007, 11:52 AM   #10288
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Duckman- Thats a good point. I had assumed (perhaps incorrectly) that he was running the swaybars as we run them just about everywhere.

So in addition to the above recommendations if you're not running the swaybars you should start with our silver bar up front and copper in the rear. This is the standard rubber tire swaybar setup.
well you know what happens when you assume
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Old 12-14-2007, 11:55 AM   #10289
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Yea I get dressed to the sound of "that'll be 200 dollars"
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Old 12-14-2007, 02:04 PM   #10290
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JAAD Racing
2x6mm Ceramic Nitride Pre-assembled Thrust Bearing. this is something new to me, is they anyone using it any feedback
I have used this for one race meeting so far, it felt very good, and the rebuild was much easier.....With this the thrust balls nolonger run on the diff screw creating a groove and making the diff action a bit gritty after time.....
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