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Old 09-30-2007, 05:57 PM   #9721
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Just stick a 3x6x0.5mm washer (Z203) under the diff nut... you shouldn't break another screw
i will try that thanks and report back.
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Old 09-30-2007, 06:09 PM   #9722
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In my experience the diff screw always broke off just at the end of the thread of the screw. Hence the theory is that the nut gets twisted in the diff housing. The washer helps keep the diff nut square inside the diff outdrive housing. Keeping the diff nut perpendicular to the screw allows the screw to take maximum loads. Anyway the bottom line is that with the additional washer I have not broken a screw in over a year of modified racing. Hope this helps.....
this helps alot since i am running brushless do u get problems with the diff slacking up while running.
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Old 09-30-2007, 06:30 PM   #9723
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Originally Posted by 2-Bad View Post
In my experience the diff screw always broke off just at the end of the thread of the screw. Hence the theory is that the nut gets twisted in the diff housing. The washer helps keep the diff nut square inside the diff outdrive housing. Keeping the diff nut perpendicular to the screw allows the screw to take maximum loads. Anyway the bottom line is that with the additional washer I have not broken a screw in over a year of modified racing. Hope this helps.....
Yup, thats where mine breaks

Thanks for the info
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Old 09-30-2007, 06:50 PM   #9724
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so anyone know when and who's goin to have those 18t pullys in stock?
oh also the longer belts
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Old 09-30-2007, 06:53 PM   #9725
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so anyone know when and who's goin to have those 18t pullys in stock?
oh also the longer belts
mine are arriving this week sometime from overseas.
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Old 09-30-2007, 07:30 PM   #9726
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mine are arriving this week sometime from overseas.
I wish mine were too
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Old 09-30-2007, 08:41 PM   #9727
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Originally Posted by barber View Post
this helps alot since i am running brushless do u get problems with the diff slacking up while running.
I drop of Loctite in the diff nut thread (when building up the diff) should stop this as well.
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Old 10-01-2007, 05:13 AM   #9728
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well who u order from zombie????????????????
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Old 10-01-2007, 08:59 AM   #9729
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Originally Posted by 2-Bad View Post
I drop of Loctite in the diff nut thread (when building up the diff) should stop this as well.
the blue one or red one(loctite)
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Old 10-01-2007, 09:33 AM   #9730
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I club race, no tech

No weight limit, so with no limit, what would you do then?

I want to stay nice and light, with all the alu on the cyclone its alot heavier then the tc5, I did notice that, or atleast it seemed that way because we have the same electronics in out cars
Being light as possible certainly has its advantages. If there weren't any weight restrictions in racing I would run as light as possible while still maintaining a close 50/50 balance on the chassis. Just like in 5-cell, lighter is faster but it requires some shifting of electronics in the car to get the balance right.

Running the car 100+ grams lighter on one side will make for an inconsistent handling car. Especially in low grip conditions.
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Old 10-01-2007, 02:39 PM   #9731
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the blue one or red one(loctite)
As long as it's thread lock of some sort it won't really matter. The Loctite I use is really old and the numbers have rubbed off but it's browny/red in colour.
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Old 10-01-2007, 02:40 PM   #9732
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well who u order from zombie????????????????
You can get the new belts and pulley's from RC Champ; they had them for several weeks now...
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Old 10-01-2007, 03:31 PM   #9733
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As long as it's thread lock of some sort it won't really matter. The Loctite I use is really old and the numbers have rubbed off but it's browny/red in colour.
Blue, if you use red it will never come off. Red is for real 1:1 cars.
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Old 10-01-2007, 03:44 PM   #9734
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShaunMac View Post
Being light as possible certainly has its advantages. If there weren't any weight restrictions in racing I would run as light as possible while still maintaining a close 50/50 balance on the chassis. Just like in 5-cell, lighter is faster but it requires some shifting of electronics in the car to get the balance right.

Running the car 100+ grams lighter on one side will make for an inconsistent handling car. Especially in low grip conditions.
Yeah, I figured that, for now, when my car is set up for the race day (Get rid of tweak, cambar and all that re set) after the last race, my car is hooked up awsome

I am going to be racing on carpet, and there will be lots of traction there

How far off would you recommend I could run my car before you run into handling issues? I have lots of room to move stuff around, so thats no biggie.....

EDIT

With some thinking and trying stuff out, I think I could make this work with the lipo, that would really help balance the chassis out I think.. Please ignore the blue lol



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Last edited by BlackedOutREVO; 10-01-2007 at 03:58 PM.
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Old 10-01-2007, 03:48 PM   #9735
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Blue, if you use red it will never come off. Red is for real 1:1 cars.

That maybe so, but I don't have any problems using it....
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